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As for the second two pictures, all I can say is in real life the emitter appears only dimly lit, nothing like the blinding electric-blue light you see in the photos, so I'm going to go ahead and conclude my camera IS seeing the UV directly, and misinterpreting it as visible blue light. The dramatic decrease in brightness when I interpose my glasses between the emitter and the camera shows a substantial portion of the UV is being blocked by my glasses.
What may vary or may be of import is specifically what bands of UV are responsible for the change and what portion of UV if any is passed with the typical photochromic window or lens material. It does appear that fyrstormer's glasses don't pass the 365nm generated by the LED and in addition, they are not activated in their darkening feature by this band of UV. :shrug:Photochromic lenses have millions of molecules of substances such as silver chloride or silver halide embedded in them. The molecules are transparent to visible light in the absence of UV light, which is normal for artificial lighting. But when exposed to UV rays, as in direct sunlight, the molecules undergo a chemical process that causes them to change shape. The new molecular structure absorbs portions of the visible light, causing the lenses to darken. The number of molecules that change shape varies with the intensity of the UV rays.
You are correct about auto glass. When I get in my car on a sunny day, my glasses lighten up as soon as I close the door. Given the lack of visible tinting on the glass, my guess is the UV protection cuts off just inside of the 400nm range, and my glasses probably respond to UV just outside of that range. That makes sense because, if the lenses block most everything below 400nm anyway, there's no need to darken when exposed to those frequencies since they're already "dark" all the time at those frequencies -- it's only visible light that they need to adjust their tint for, so UV light that's just on the outside edge of the visible range would be the best indicator with enough energy to activate the tint without always selectively absorbing a visible color that I might otherwise want to see.I would guess that ideally the lenses on such glasses would simply block all UV light and use the near UV light as a trigger for darkening. A car windshield I believe blocks most UV and you would want the light passed through the windshield to be able to activate your sunglasses based on the intensity, I would imagine. Interesting stuff!
I'll take a picture in the dark when I get home tonight.Unfortunately, the fact that his hand is clearly lit also means that reflected visible light is skewing the appearance of both the paper and the shadow. Try taking the photo in a completely dark room where the only light source is your mule and let us see that. Unless the shadow was solid black in such a photo with correct exposure, then UV may still be getting through.
I would be fascinated to know how you manage to step outside on a sunny day without hissing and writhing in pain. The ozone layer blocks enough UV that you don't get instant sunburn like you would in space, but there is still far more UV striking the ground outside even on a cloudy day than there is being emitted by my UV Mule.If there is even a slight chance of a highly reflective surface throwing some 365nm waves back at me, I wear a pair of UV-specific safety glasses. Even rated at blocking 99.9% of UVA/UVB, the 0.1% that gets through can still do damage over time. Since I can't get new eyes, I prefer to err on the side of caution.
How exactly do you explain the second and third photos, then? If the UV were causing the Mule's lense to fluoresce, the image of the light engine would be washed-out, and if any of the lenses in the camera were fluorescing, the entire picture would be washed-out. The bright spot is clearly centered around the emitter die itself. My camera's UV filter is not blocking all of the UV light, and the CCD is recording it as visible blue light because it doesn't have a facility provided to isolate and record UV wavelengths properly. There are pictures of this same emitter taken using a better camera with a better UV filter, and it is clearly not recording anything but visible light, unlike mine.His camera is not capturing UV directly. When an object flouresces, it is absorbing some of the energy in the UV light, effectively increasing, in most cases, the wavelength of the light that is emitted so that it's within the visible spectrum. At that point, it is no longer UV.
I'll take a picture in the dark when I get home tonight.
I would be fascinated to know how you manage to step outside on a sunny day without hissing and writhing in pain. The ozone layer blocks enough UV that you don't get instant sunburn like you would in space, but there is still far more UV striking the ground outside even on a cloudy day than there is being emitted by my UV Mule.
How exactly do you explain the second and third photos, then? If the UV were causing the Mule's lense to fluoresce, the image of the light engine would be washed-out, and if any of the lenses in the camera were fluorescing, the entire picture would be washed-out. The bright spot is clearly centered around the emitter die itself. My camera's UV filter is not blocking all of the UV light, and the CCD is recording it as visible blue light because it doesn't have a facility provided to isolate and record UV wavelengths properly. There are pictures of this same emitter taken using a better camera with a better UV filter, and it is clearly not recording anything but visible light, unlike mine.
Oy vey. The SECOND picture. Look at the SECOND picture. The one where the emitter is pointed DIRECTLY at the camera. Do you see the burnout in the center of the image, where the emitter is located? THAT is what I'm talking about when I say the camera is responding directly to the UV light. The emitter looks nothing like that to my eyes.Okay, it appears to be time for some basic science. The Nicha 365nm puts out far more concentrated UV than what reaches us from the sun. Because of this it has the potential to be far more dangerous. That shouldn't be too hard to understand, assuming that the truth is actually desired. I would hardly call it fascinating, though. It's just common sense.
Basically, when light, in this case UV (which by definition is invisible), hits a flourescent target, there is a transfer of heat to the object and the light that is emiited by the target is at a longer wavelength (lower energy due to the heat loss). In your case, the target (white paper) emits visible (and thus not UV) light that is blue, which is what your camera is capturing. If you camera was actually translating UV as blue, then it would follow that the paper shouldn't appear to be blue to the naked eye since UV light is invisible to the human eye. Yet it does appear to be blue. And that is exactly what your camera is showing - visible blue light that is being emitted by white paper when illuminated by a UV source.
The principle of flourescence is very well understood and clearly defined. I recommend that you google the word if you don't believe me.