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* * * * Now at the Shoppe. Brass Collars.
- Thread starter dat2zip
- Start date
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shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
dat2zip, how does the collar fasten to the light?
Oh, on the Sandwich Shoppe site, it looks as if it comes with an Allen wrench, so I guess it fastens with a set screw.
Oh, on the Sandwich Shoppe site, it looks as if it comes with an Allen wrench, so I guess it fastens with a set screw.
Shankus,
There is a set screw used to secure the collar but I have typed up a caution on one of my web pages and I think Wayne has linked to this. The set screw *can* dimple the thin walls of the battery tube or tail caps if over tightened. In the case of the E series collars, the collar is captive by design so the set screw is only required to keep the collar in position and from rotation. I suspect that some folks will decide to shim under the collar with strips of glass reinforced tape as well as others may decide to use adhesives as well as the set screw for securing the collar.
Once the collar is in place, the tab is screwed down on the set screw and tightened against the collar. The tab acts like a lock nut and as tightened puts the threads in tension serving as a good locking mechanisim.
- Don
There is a set screw used to secure the collar but I have typed up a caution on one of my web pages and I think Wayne has linked to this. The set screw *can* dimple the thin walls of the battery tube or tail caps if over tightened. In the case of the E series collars, the collar is captive by design so the set screw is only required to keep the collar in position and from rotation. I suspect that some folks will decide to shim under the collar with strips of glass reinforced tape as well as others may decide to use adhesives as well as the set screw for securing the collar.
Once the collar is in place, the tab is screwed down on the set screw and tightened against the collar. The tab acts like a lock nut and as tightened puts the threads in tension serving as a good locking mechanisim.
- Don
shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
I see. Do you recommend Lock-Tite?
tylerdurden
Flashlight Enthusiast
Any plans to offer these to fit the pelican M6?
Shankus,
Yes, I do recommend Loc-Tite but I don't think it is as important on the collars as it is say with the McLux method. By gripping the tab with a pair of pliers and tightening it against the collar, I believe you have a sound connection. A piece of leather, rubber or thick fabric should be used in the pliers jaws to keep them from biting into the brass and scaring it.
Tylerdurden,
I'm not sure yet about the PM6. If the "tulip" kroll clickie tail switch gets made, it has accommodation for the tab already. If you know that you want to go with the tab system on the PM6, I don't think there is a better method than tapping the tube directly and mounting the tab permanently on the side of the tube. With the tab positioned correctly, I think it provides the optimal solution for the PM6. The light is very close to your body and the tail switch is even with the top of the belt clip. The light also hangs well on the wall or dash mount. I used Loc-tite in the few I have tapped this way and the hole is sealed and waterproof as a result.
For reference:
- Don
Yes, I do recommend Loc-Tite but I don't think it is as important on the collars as it is say with the McLux method. By gripping the tab with a pair of pliers and tightening it against the collar, I believe you have a sound connection. A piece of leather, rubber or thick fabric should be used in the pliers jaws to keep them from biting into the brass and scaring it.
Tylerdurden,
I'm not sure yet about the PM6. If the "tulip" kroll clickie tail switch gets made, it has accommodation for the tab already. If you know that you want to go with the tab system on the PM6, I don't think there is a better method than tapping the tube directly and mounting the tab permanently on the side of the tube. With the tab positioned correctly, I think it provides the optimal solution for the PM6. The light is very close to your body and the tail switch is even with the top of the belt clip. The light also hangs well on the wall or dash mount. I used Loc-tite in the few I have tapped this way and the hole is sealed and waterproof as a result.
For reference:
- Don
shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
McGizmo, I was thinking of using this collar & tab with a dual purpose.
For carry, and also by mounting it near the head, as a stop for the Mini-Mag head, to keep the head from turning the MadMax off.
Do you think this is a feasible application? It looks as if the tab is sufficiently spaced from the body to allow carry in a heads-up attitude.
I also wonder how difficult it is to make the tab compatible with the Ultra Swivel Clip™.
As, I like the additional security of the "90° only" release of Ultra Swivel Clip.
It looks as if it will probably work with the Micro Swivel Clip™ as well.
If one was made with notches, the Ratchet Clip could be used, allowing the user to point the light, and use it right "from the hip".
I used to carry my eternaLight XRay from an Ultra Clip, and it was an excellent way to carry the light. It was very secure.
For carry, and also by mounting it near the head, as a stop for the Mini-Mag head, to keep the head from turning the MadMax off.
Do you think this is a feasible application? It looks as if the tab is sufficiently spaced from the body to allow carry in a heads-up attitude.
I also wonder how difficult it is to make the tab compatible with the Ultra Swivel Clip™.
As, I like the additional security of the "90° only" release of Ultra Swivel Clip.
It looks as if it will probably work with the Micro Swivel Clip™ as well.
If one was made with notches, the Ratchet Clip could be used, allowing the user to point the light, and use it right "from the hip".
I used to carry my eternaLight XRay from an Ultra Clip, and it was an excellent way to carry the light. It was very secure.
Shankus,
Yes, I think you can accomplish a "stop" with the collar as suggested. If you want to put two flats on the waist of the tab so that it will work in the Ultra system, this can also be done. Unfortunately, you may end up with the orientation of the flats in the wrong position unless you install and tighten the tab first and then use a thin file to make the flats in place. I had considered going the route of the Ultra or at least offering it as an option but realized that there are inherent problems with the orientation of a part that is rotated on in assembly as opposed to mounted in position. You could drill and tap an additional hole for the set screw and then pre-mount the tab on the collar orientated as required. These parts are effective as is in many cases and in others, they can serve as a basis for further modification and application specific refinement.
- Don
EDIT: Hey, you edited your post so now I have to edit mine! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I looked into a ratcheting system as well but the second operation of milling the "stops" would have driven the price of the tabs sky high and after playing with a ratcheted assembly, I decided that more often than not, I liked swiveling the light at will to point it where I wanted it.
Yes, I think you can accomplish a "stop" with the collar as suggested. If you want to put two flats on the waist of the tab so that it will work in the Ultra system, this can also be done. Unfortunately, you may end up with the orientation of the flats in the wrong position unless you install and tighten the tab first and then use a thin file to make the flats in place. I had considered going the route of the Ultra or at least offering it as an option but realized that there are inherent problems with the orientation of a part that is rotated on in assembly as opposed to mounted in position. You could drill and tap an additional hole for the set screw and then pre-mount the tab on the collar orientated as required. These parts are effective as is in many cases and in others, they can serve as a basis for further modification and application specific refinement.
- Don
EDIT: Hey, you edited your post so now I have to edit mine! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I looked into a ratcheting system as well but the second operation of milling the "stops" would have driven the price of the tabs sky high and after playing with a ratcheted assembly, I decided that more often than not, I liked swiveling the light at will to point it where I wanted it.
shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
I see.
Is there not a radius on the mounting side of the brass tab, such that it mates with the curve of the brass collar?
Also, I was considering making a small dimple in the Mini-Mag, so as to prevent the collar from rotating, as well as sliding out of position longitudinally, on the light.
Is there not a radius on the mounting side of the brass tab, such that it mates with the curve of the brass collar?
Also, I was considering making a small dimple in the Mini-Mag, so as to prevent the collar from rotating, as well as sliding out of position longitudinally, on the light.
Shankus,
Had I radiused the mating surface of the tab, It would be diameter specific and could not be installed by screwing it down on a set screw. This would require it to be fastened with a through screw and the through screw could not act as both set screw and fastening screw unless it was a perfect length for each application.
A small dimple would aid considerably since the set screw could go below the surface and place material in a shear plane against movement.
- Don
Had I radiused the mating surface of the tab, It would be diameter specific and could not be installed by screwing it down on a set screw. This would require it to be fastened with a through screw and the through screw could not act as both set screw and fastening screw unless it was a perfect length for each application.
A small dimple would aid considerably since the set screw could go below the surface and place material in a shear plane against movement.
- Don
tylerdurden
Flashlight Enthusiast
Don,
I would definitely be more interested in the tulip tailcap than the collar for the PM6.
BTW, is there a reason you make these in brass instead of aluminum? Not that I'm complaining, I kinda like the contrast against my McLux.
I would definitely be more interested in the tulip tailcap than the collar for the PM6.
BTW, is there a reason you make these in brass instead of aluminum? Not that I'm complaining, I kinda like the contrast against my McLux.
tylerdurden,
There were a few reasons I went with brass over Al and I think I wrote one of my long winded diatribes on this on a previous thread. Short answer; I had to make a choice and I can only hope I made one that is reasonably acceptable to most.
- Don
There were a few reasons I went with brass over Al and I think I wrote one of my long winded diatribes on this on a previous thread. Short answer; I had to make a choice and I can only hope I made one that is reasonably acceptable to most.
- Don
shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said some other good stuff, and:
...A small dimple would aid considerably...
[/ QUOTE ]
Cool, thanks for the info. I think I'm going to get one.
McGizmo said some other good stuff, and:
...A small dimple would aid considerably...
[/ QUOTE ]
Cool, thanks for the info. I think I'm going to get one.
shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for noticing... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I like the idea of this collar solving two problems simultaneously.
Of course, it will only solve it on my light of choice to carry at work. On my EDC (M³), and home light, I will still have to find a way to keep the head from screwing down too far.
I like the idea of this collar solving two problems simultaneously.
Of course, it will only solve it on my light of choice to carry at work. On my EDC (M³), and home light, I will still have to find a way to keep the head from screwing down too far.
Just got my order of these collars in for both the "e" series and the AA. They are going to make a nice upgrade to my earlier version E1 HAs and E2HAs with KL1 heads as a means of carrying the light on a regular basis. The only downside was that I didn't look at the fine print and see that they didn't include the brass tab as well. Since I had a "few" brass tabs on hand from my last order, wasn't an insurmountable problem.
