Hi guys
This is the third time I am tryingto post a reply. The previous 2 failed to update / froze the screen so I lost 3 hours of typing!
For starters, THANK YOU again for taking the time to reply. Invaluable and I'm getting my head around this all. Just burnt quite a lot of money on this project now and feel like I'm still on first base. I am! Spend to date : $350
I've taken what you said to heart and since done as many tests as I can to prove out what works and what doesn't. Obv one can only test items higher up the stack without a guaranteed power source and driver, the LED's won't get a proper chance to shine..
To answer the questions:
LED choice. I hear what you've said alpg88. I have over $100 of P7's though and as you said they will be up to the job.
007 mentioned that they havea wide beam and luckily for me, that's precisely what I need! TO explain briefly as this might be of interest.
Underwater lighting falls in to 2 categories:
1) Lighting a path for navigation. This is usually in dark or murky areas hence the reason for a light in the first place. Ideally the tighter the beam the better as this cuts through any silt.
Beam angle is anything from 4 - 15 degrees
2) Underwater videography and photography where the light source is used to light up an object that's beling filmed. Typically lighting is only effective in the first 1 - 2 meters / 3 - 6 feet. Obv high powered lights do more but this is general. Also, animals are usually viewed up close as you can't see them further away, which means your camera can't either
The other thing is that this lighting makes use of 2 light heads not 1. These are positioned on arms which extend out to the sides and effectively shine the light on the object from the sides to avoid the backscatter. So in theory, the longer the arms the better.
I have a fancy set of lights like this that are 250watt HID bulbs and produce the best light colour. 4300 - 4800kelvin
LED's are "blue" in comparison but given their huge efficienes, output, burn time, the ability to stop and start the light, dimming options) they are taking the market by storm..
Beam angle is 110 degrees on these lights..
Diffusers are used to ensure there are no hotspots. Either frosted glass or acrylic
Apologies if this was all common knowledge but it does explain why I'm doing what I'm doing hopefully..
So that's the LED's done. I have 8 LEDs, 4 per light head
Wrt the heat sink. I have not been able to power the LEDs up enough to get them even warm yet. I have some silver paint which I was going to stick the boards on to a larger heatsink that I have. It's 8mm thick x the size the housing ends up being. I assume approx 80mm x 100mm
I have treated the LED's with kit gloves so far but I am comfortable unsoldering them off the board now and mounting them directly on the heatsink.. I'll get to this once I have a working battery and driver..
Driver :
I have emailed Witchel about getting 2 of his 4 mode drivers. I don't know what's wrong with the driver I have but either way it doesn't seem to work as expected. Given the importance of the driver, I think the cost is easily justified.
Reflector. I have some really nice reflectors machined from aluminium which I do think will work nicely. Exact fitting to be confirmed once I have a working model. Not critical path as I might not even need them given thatI want a wide beam..
Battery. Right here where I'd really appreciate a bit of confirmation help. I looked at the graphs from the testing and they're very interesting. I think given that I will have 4 per head, that should really provide a good amount of light even if running at the standard rating. I'll scale up and down using the driver settings..
007 mentioned that HobbyKing do some good batteries. I have found this:
The option I is a single 8000mAh battery which I think is the right thing to get. I'd like to know if it's the correct rated battery AND if my charger will work with it. It's a "Li-Ion charger rated for 14.8V batteries. Outputs 3A up to 16.8V. They were $60 each bought in the USA and shipped so I think they are good quality, just need to check they'll work with this battery. I have 2 chargers.)
The battery is :
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16226
14.8V, 30C (I researched this and I assume my use would be 3A constant draw so it give a long burn time. Would something smaller be more appropriate to do say 100mins of burn time?)
The 5Cell option had a voltage of 22.2V 007, doesn't that rule it out based on the chargers or will they still work, just slower? And taking the Witchel driver in to account it's more than the 20V the driver is rated to?
Would really appreciate a line on this before I go buy 2 of them
Thanks!
* The batteries at this size are larger than initially anticipated, so the standard way of doing it is to separate the battery and have a canister that connects to the light head. I am still going with the all in 1 option light head with battery and will use a foam or tube filled with air to create neutral bouyancy for the light heads.
FBsLights you asked about measuring the current. I have a medium quality multi meter (not a cheapo but not a $500 fluke). It should do the job. I was going to measure the current coming from the driver but given that it's not working properly and all my tests yielded the same amount of light regardless of number of LEDs in s or p, I want to be sure I have the right thing hence the new drivers..
I assume a multi meter measuring current will work?
You also mentioned the batteries - all good stuff but I've given up on he single cells option in favour of the above. Given the importance of the battery pack to this project I think it's worth it. Removing batteries between dives is still an option, I need to find out which battery is the ideal once before deciding as the pros and cons are : pro, unit will be almost half the weight and smaller in size, con is having to open and close the unit which isn't a show stopper but it's a significant change.
The alternative pro is a guaranteed closed waterproof solution, con is the extra size and weight. It's a trade off
and I appreciate that's a long burn time! I will be switching modes though so not running at 100% constant use for 110mins. Worst case would be : enter water, switch to 70% whilst on the dive to look at things, makes a big difference otherwise everything is just blue. Switch to 100% when flming specific objects. total time 30 - 40mins. Then switch down off for the ascent.
Maybe I could get away with less burn time ie 80mins total, but for the extra size of the battery I'd rather have the burn time. Many events I film only happen once! There are no re-takes with fish
Guys, thank you once more for the help and ideas. Looking forward to my next order of drivers and batteries..
Matt