Portable Powerbank

Monocrom

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Related, I've gotten good service from the Ryobi ONE+ inverter / USB powerbank:

Appears they also offer a similar powerbank-specific product that also supplies 12V DC:
Might have to pick those up. I've standardized on Ryobi tools.
(Not a contractor, so don't need the absolute best/most expensive power-tools out there.)
 

orbital

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I'm going with the Milwaukee line. My son uses that, and I hear great things from online and pros that use it, so that is what I'm going with. That slide-on inverter for their batteries interests me. Looks very handy.
+

A good drill can do alot of projects because you can adjust the clutch.
At $198, gotta say this is a good deal for the brushless drill/batteries/charger,, can be had at that price from a seller with 100% feedback.
btw, most service people around here use Milwaukee


typo on Amazon site,, M18 FUEL is an 18V system , not 12V
 
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idleprocess

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Might have to pick those up. I've standardized on Ryobi tools.
(Not a contractor, so don't need the absolute best/most expensive power-tools out there.)
In my experience, Ryobi is more than sufficient for the home gamer. I went so far as to scratch-build a ~120ft² storage shed with my set using piloted screws as the primary structural fasteners.
 

Monocrom

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In my experience, Ryobi is more than sufficient for the home gamer. I went so far as to scratch-build a ~120ft² storage shed with my set using piloted screws as the primary structural fasteners.
By the time I'm too elderly to pick up a power-tool, I'll likely be able to re-sell all of my Ryobi ones in "Like New" condition on eBay.
 

Glow Bug

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It is a modified sine wave form but worked fine for my needs. Just be aware of that. I'm sure a small pure sine wave probably is in the works. They have to leave something on the table for future sales.
 

Poppy

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Whether one goes with the Milwaukee, Makita, Ryobi, or other brand for the inverter, for the homeowner, it probably doesn't very much matter. I imagine that the tools that the pros go with are better. However for the homeowner, the lower priced units are probably just as good, meaning that they will not wear out in the owner's lifetime.

I built a deck with my nephew. We had my Ryobi drill driver, and Milwaukee drill driver. I was impressed with how well my Ryobi held up compared to the Milwaukee.

@IMA SOL MAN I agree, that if your son has gone the Milwaukee route, I would also. This way you have the freedom to swap tools, and compatible batteries. That would not work out as well if you went with a different brand,.
 

scout24

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Related, I've gotten good service from the Ryobi ONE+ inverter / USB powerbank:

Appears they also offer a similar powerbank-specific product that also supplies 12V DC:
Being invested in the Ryobi One ecosystem, I own both of these. I've used them sporadicly, more for proof they work then need. Both as advertised, both convenient, both recommended. ☹👍
 
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Poppy

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I wonder if one chose to if it would charge another 18 volt battery.
I imagine that it would, but that there would be some watts lost due to inefficiencies. I suppose that the only reason one would do that would be to transfer some juice from one format to another, such as to charge a Milwaukee battery from a Ryobi.
 

bykfixer

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I was thinking in terms of my trimmer battery runs down at my house and I'm using a spare at my maw-n-laws to trim the hedges, then need some battery to power my 18 volt fan when done. Realizing the invertor could probably power my 18 volt fan with a freshly charged battery also.
 
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orbital

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I wonder if one chose to if it would charge another 18 volt battery.
+

If you look on the back of a battery from Milwaukee or any other brand, there is + slot, and a - slot.
not only is that where you check the voltage, but where if you made some special wiring, connect one brand to another to transfer juice.

It's just a 5 cell Li-ion package with max voltage of right around 20V (even though it may say 18V tool)
..would not work on 24V or 36V setups
 

Poppy

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I was thinking in terms of my trimmer battery runs down at my house and I'm using a spare at my maw-n-laws to trim the hedges, then need some battery to power my 18 volt fan when done. Realizing the invertor could probably power my 18 volt fan with a freshly charged battery also.
Mr. Fixer, the way this is written I can only guess at what you are trying to do.

The inverter is not a power source. But rather it will convert power from an 18V battery into 110V, which can be used to power a low amperage 110v thing. That thing can be a light, perhaps a TV, or a charger.
 

BVH

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I posted under the Master thread for generators thread but it applies here, too. If you're looking to get into solar generators - a fancy name for battery/power banks, you get a lot of bang for low bucks.

 
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orbital

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Probably shouldn't link A~Z as much as I do, but if you're a Prime member (or got a 30 free trial)
you can get this for $24

may be slow to recharge itself, but if capacity is close to advertised ~ must say good deal

 

eksine

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I see a few here are using the LiPo4 batteries. I was initially enamored of them due to their energy density and discharge characteristics, but I've stuck with lead-acid chemistry for now… my reason: the little Battery Management System (BMS) module that's inside the case of almost all batteries of this type.

This is a little IC "brain" that allows the battery to charge and discharge properly within its limits. If it should go bad, it's my understanding that the battery is pretty much toast at that point, unless one wants to tear into the case and is able to replace the circuitry (a rather formidable, and perhaps practically impossible task). My concern is twofold: lightning and NEMP, primarily the latter.

While destructive overvoltage conditions from a lightning strike can usually be successfully shunted to ground and away from the batteries in a properly designed and grounded solar power or other alternative energy setup, this would likely not be the case where NEMP is concerned. Inquiries I made to people in a certain government task force on NEMP a couple of years ago, regarding this potential issue with the LiPo4 BMS, were not at all reassuring, and indeed confirmed my concerns that this was a weak spot that could well render a system using such batteries inoperable in the event of an NEMP event.

At issue is the fact that, as best as can be determined (and the battery manufacturers are of very little help in this regard), these modules have been designed with little to no shielding or bypass, and are extremely susceptible to overvoltage conditions such as would occur from both the E1 and E2 pulses of any substantial NEMP. Failure of the BMS is almost a certainty in such an event, unless heroic efforts have been made to shield the batteries themselves along with the entire solar power system, which is of doubtful effectiveness unless done to TEMPEST standards or better, a rather expensive proposition.

One must judge for oneself how much of a threat they think this presents to their systems, and plan accordingly. Solar panels, at least the single-crystal silicon variety, are remarkably resistant to the effects of NEMP (save for their blocking diodes), as are lead-acid batteries. Charge controllers and inverters are another matter, and require proper bypassing and shielding if one expects them to survive… having replacements for these components on-hand, kept in a shielded metal container, might be the most effective way to deal with this, short of extensive modifications.

Just something to keep in mind in these rather uncertain times.
It took days for them to approve my account. wanted to say your conceptions of what LiFeP04 battery systems are and how to make one are skewed. first off will prowse has a youtube channel to educate you, he also has a forum they have recommendations on which companies to buy from because you can get ripped off. Second, your understanding about BMS is wrong. JBD was the best recommended brand might still be. I really do not think they fail the way you describe but I'm not an expert so ask the company or on the will prowse solar forum. I would think it uses a relay which PROBABLY requires some small voltage to operate. now if lightning strikes any battery it's going to be obliterated. if it strikes the BMS it should have protections. the battery system is always connected to something like an inverter or what not, those inverters have fuses. very few people fully understand how to set up the systems, for example you can have 2 systems, same charger, one fails you still have a backup, also you can get automatic changeover switch, it uses house mains AC, if it fails it auto switches to your inverter, generator, etc. many have 8 millisecond switching even though its mechanical, it means a computer will state running. lots of things you can do. thing is since there is not standard it's wise to do heavy reading on reviews, don't assume a cheap product is going to last or not fry your equipment. you can even run window AC or split phase, hell you can even convert window AC into split phase air conditioning. also with very basic welding you can make a sliding roof mount rack, which slide out to DOUBLE the area you can use for solar panels. you can now get 800 watts on your tiny honda accord roof. you can use electric actuators to make it fancy. Anyways brush up on those videos i explained, you have a lot to learn. everything about which buss bars to use or make, to what types of wires to use are all things you need to learn. I'm designing a 6,000 Wh system now so I can sell it
 

eksine

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anybody else have general questions I can help, example you can have DC to DC chargers, it is a regulator , hooks to your alternator on car, converts it so you can charge LiFeP04 off your alternator whilst also charging your 12v lead acid starter battery as always. you can have dual battery relays, enables you to charge a second lead acid battery bank whilst your starting battery is charging. Also anybody who wants heating in a portable shed or car, use chinese diesel heaters, runs on diesel or cooking oil maybe, not even joking, uses much less battery power than an all electric heater and less dangerous or inconvenient than propane heaters, also they cost $100, they are knockoffs of truck driver webasto and espar heaters that cost $3000-5000, and reliability is still high. buy a backup. anyways I know basic to advanced stuff, stuff even the experts don't consider. I don't know everything though, just practical stuff. and I know about the correct safety devices to use, don't trust people telling to use mega or ANL fuses for lifep04, they don't know what they're talking about
 

orbital

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+

Just picked up this for $39 using 2 coupons,
Look at the specs for input & output wattage, crazy good deal!

edit: one coupon is the 50% off,, then there was another coupon that said Take an extra 10% off,, click (redeem) that & you'll see it in checkout
...that's how you get to the $39

 
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Dr. Jones

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It took days for them to approve my account. wanted to say your conceptions of what LiFeP04 battery systems are and how to make one are skewed. first off will prowse has a youtube channel to educate you, he also has a forum they have recommendations on which companies to buy from because you can get ripped off. Second, your understanding about BMS is wrong. JBD was the best recommended brand might still be. I really do not think they fail the way you describe but I'm not an expert so ask the company or on the will prowse solar forum. I would think it uses a relay which PROBABLY requires some small voltage to operate. now if lightning strikes any battery it's going to be obliterated. if it strikes the BMS it should have protections. the battery system is always connected to something like an inverter or what not, those inverters have fuses. very few people fully understand how to set up the systems, for example you can have 2 systems, same charger, one fails you still have a backup, also you can get automatic changeover switch, it uses house mains AC, if it fails it auto switches to your inverter, generator, etc. many have 8 millisecond switching even though its mechanical, it means a computer will state running. lots of things you can do. thing is since there is not standard it's wise to do heavy reading on reviews, don't assume a cheap product is going to last or not fry your equipment. you can even run window AC or split phase, hell you can even convert window AC into split phase air conditioning. also with very basic welding you can make a sliding roof mount rack, which slide out to DOUBLE the area you can use for solar panels. you can now get 800 watts on your tiny honda accord roof. you can use electric actuators to make it fancy. Anyways brush up on those videos i explained, you have a lot to learn. everything about which buss bars to use or make, to what types of wires to use are all things you need to learn. I'm designing a 6,000 Wh system now so I can sell it
I appreciate your comments, but think that you don't fully grasp the the level of damage an NEMP can do to the semiconductors in a BMS, especially when they are connected to the lengthy, unshielded conductors found in almost all solar setups.

Tests that were run at Sandia in conjunction with the EMP Commission indicate that plain lead-acid batteries, with their negative terminals properly grounded, are unaffected by any foreseeable level of NEMP up to 50kv/meter unless connected to extremely long conductors (several hundreds of yards in length), or to the grid via a charger, and even then are quite resilient, with only minor damage occurring that didn't affect their capacity or further operation. As far as aI know, no LiPo4 batteries were tested, as this was some years ago before they were really on the scene; however, it's likely that the batteries themselves would be fairly resilient since they share a reasonably-similar architecture with other storage batteries, the major difference being their internal BMS and it's semiconductors that are extremely vulnerable to the E1 and E2 components of even a moderate NEMP event. If the internal and practically non-accessible BMS is destroyed, charging the battery becomes extremely problematic.

Everyone has to decide for themselves what risks they are willing to take with their alternative energy system; I've given my opinion here based on my years of real-world electronics experience, as well as the conclusions of the various NEMP study commissions over the past couple of decades and correspondence with their members, so I really have no more to say on the matter.
 
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