QTC flashlight - from scratch (non battery-crush)

TheFraz

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 22, 2007
Messages
492
Location
Little Rock, AR
I would be interested in a matte black one if you decide to release them for sale.

Cheers

Euro, I am about to start a sales thread for these lights over in the CPF Custom B/S/T area.

Also, I wanted to show some elements of the light that make it unique that I have not yet shown. The internals:
IMG_0967_zps4a17c573.jpg

IMG_0970_zpsc986b6df.jpg

IMG_0969_zpsb2c3541a.jpg

IMG_0968_zpscb4706a0.jpg


These pictures better illustrate how the light operates. The middle 2 pictures are the first ones I have shown of the engine.

It is a pretty unique system. As you can see, it is a piston system that makes contact with the lip of the battery tube, which allows the light to use double springs and completely eliminates shearing forces. This is what makes the light non-battery-crush. There is no pressure on the battery. The functional parts of the engine are actually around the optic, which allows the light to have such a short length. The optic system is set into the heat sink itself, which allows the heat to dissipate pretty rapidly through the body of the light. The outside of the light only has two points where water can enter. The optic, and the battery tube. Both are sealed very tight - when the engine is threaded in, the final turn creates a tight seal from the lip of the bezel around the edges of the optic. The battery tube has a very thick o-ring that holds up well to heavy use. I have tested the light to 70 feet in a lake and it has no problems....it should be able to go much deeper. It also holds up very well to impact because of the lack of breakable parts. The pistons themselves are designed to protect the QTC and keep it in place. They work very well to eliminate the flickering and artifacts that are common with QTC lights.

So there you have it with the internals. I've changed them up so many times, I haven't posted the solution til now. But I feel like this is by far the best version of the engine. So I have made a run I will put up on B/S/T later tonight. Thanks for following the thread guys! :)

-Fraz
 

jabe1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
3,111
Location
Cleveland,Oh
The QTC is between the brass rods in the light engine? So to change it, remove the screw, lift the larger rod section, and push the shorter section up to reveal it?

Nice....
 

TheFraz

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 22, 2007
Messages
492
Location
Little Rock, AR
The QTC is between the brass rods in the light engine? So to change it, remove the screw, lift the larger rod section, and push the shorter section up to reveal it?

Nice....

Correct, the QTC will be replaceable using much the same process as you described. The engine is designed so it can be unscrewed from the light body using needle-nosed pliers (you can see the holes for the pliers in the 2nd picture). Removing the screw will allow the pistons to be extracted from the top of the engine. However, the QTC has a surprisingly long lifespan when used in this system...it is guarded against overcompression which tends to damage it the most in my experience. I like to picture the piston system as similar to a hydraulic - it traps the QTC in a way so that even when damaged it performs approximately the same. I hope that it is a very long time before the QTC pills need to be replaced.
 
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