OK, so this is how it would be? With one wire to the negatives, and another wire to the posititves?
_____(-)Eneloop(+)(-)Eneloop(+)____
|_________(-)LED(+)_____________|
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Rayovac Extreme 300 Lantern - replacing the LED (Mod)
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OK, so this is how it would be? With one wire to the negatives, and another wire to the posititves?
_____(-)Eneloop(+)(-)Eneloop(+)____
|_________(-)LED(+)_____________|
OK I did my first LED mod project and I was successful ... with modding my older 2010 Rayovac Xtreme lantern. The new 2012 Rayovac Xtreme lantern I got in the mail I can't get the damn LED off. But more on that later.
I took pictures which I will upload later. In short I would say the XPG-R5 neutral white is about 25% brighter than the latest stock Rayovac Xtreme lantern tripple LED setup. The neutral white LED color rendition is pleasing to the eye and the purplish blue color of the Rayovac is pretty nasty. My older 2010 model of my Rayovac which I modded actually had a pretty neutral color renditon, stock, to begin with. I did not take pictures or do a comparison but I would say the neutral XPG is only slighty more neutral than the old setup. My new Rayovac has the same tripple LED setup as the old, but the color is much more bluish purple. NASTY! I did my comparison with the older modded lantern and the newest Rayovac lantern. I did my tests all on the highest setting of the lanterns. I would say the neutral LED color is excellent, and going with anything warm would be too yellow. But it's all opinion I guess.
However, after doing a 20 minute test standing up, and a 20 minute test upside down, my modded neutral XPG lantern heatsink gets hot each time while the stock Rayovac heatsink gets warm. I took the lantern apart after each 20 minute test and the heatsink was hot both times to the touch. Not absolutely burn yourself hot, but it was still hot. The stock 2012 lantern had the heatsink just warm to the touch each time.
First off I will say this mod is pretty easy. I took the three screws out that hold the lantern compartment together. I mixed the two Arctic Silver compounds together in a 1 to 1 ratio like the directions say, on aluminum foil, and quickly applied them between the stock heatsink and the penny, and between the penny and the XPG LED. I let it sit for an hour and half. It was hard to the touch and my fingernail would barely cause a mark, which is what the directions said. I would say there's enough compount in those tubes to mod at least 10 lanterns, if you wanted to know.
I took a pre 1982 penny which was composed mostly of copper (post 1982 pennies are made of mostly other metals) I think the threshhold year was 1982 I read on the internet, but you should double check on the internet to be sure. I used a 1968 and 1974 penny. One penny for each lantern. I filed down each side of the penny till you couldn't really tell it was a penny anymore. I used one of those long metal filers you can get at home depot. It probably took 45 minutes to file it down completely.
There is a hole in the center of the stock heatsink and I wanted the LED to be touching a heatsink 100% so I decided to use a penny between the LED and the heatsink.
After an hour and a half of drying for the compound, I used a $15 soldering iron I got at Home Depot today to solder the postive and negative ends with the stock lantern wires. Loaded my eneloops in the ebay 2AA to D cell adapters (I only loaded one eneloop in each adapter though for the test) and that's how I conducted my tests with both lanterns.
I did test both LEDs when I got them. I tried just one battery but it did not work. Two batteries did work. I used a Fenix LD20 tube to put both Eneloops in and used old speaker wire to wire up the test setup. Both worked obviously.
I took pictures which I will upload later. In short I would say the XPG-R5 neutral white is about 25% brighter than the latest stock Rayovac Xtreme lantern tripple LED setup. The neutral white LED color rendition is pleasing to the eye and the purplish blue color of the Rayovac is pretty nasty. My older 2010 model of my Rayovac which I modded actually had a pretty neutral color renditon, stock, to begin with. I did not take pictures or do a comparison but I would say the neutral XPG is only slighty more neutral than the old setup. My new Rayovac has the same tripple LED setup as the old, but the color is much more bluish purple. NASTY! I did my comparison with the older modded lantern and the newest Rayovac lantern. I did my tests all on the highest setting of the lanterns. I would say the neutral LED color is excellent, and going with anything warm would be too yellow. But it's all opinion I guess.
However, after doing a 20 minute test standing up, and a 20 minute test upside down, my modded neutral XPG lantern heatsink gets hot each time while the stock Rayovac heatsink gets warm. I took the lantern apart after each 20 minute test and the heatsink was hot both times to the touch. Not absolutely burn yourself hot, but it was still hot. The stock 2012 lantern had the heatsink just warm to the touch each time.
First off I will say this mod is pretty easy. I took the three screws out that hold the lantern compartment together. I mixed the two Arctic Silver compounds together in a 1 to 1 ratio like the directions say, on aluminum foil, and quickly applied them between the stock heatsink and the penny, and between the penny and the XPG LED. I let it sit for an hour and half. It was hard to the touch and my fingernail would barely cause a mark, which is what the directions said. I would say there's enough compount in those tubes to mod at least 10 lanterns, if you wanted to know.
I took a pre 1982 penny which was composed mostly of copper (post 1982 pennies are made of mostly other metals) I think the threshhold year was 1982 I read on the internet, but you should double check on the internet to be sure. I used a 1968 and 1974 penny. One penny for each lantern. I filed down each side of the penny till you couldn't really tell it was a penny anymore. I used one of those long metal filers you can get at home depot. It probably took 45 minutes to file it down completely.
There is a hole in the center of the stock heatsink and I wanted the LED to be touching a heatsink 100% so I decided to use a penny between the LED and the heatsink.
After an hour and a half of drying for the compound, I used a $15 soldering iron I got at Home Depot today to solder the postive and negative ends with the stock lantern wires. Loaded my eneloops in the ebay 2AA to D cell adapters (I only loaded one eneloop in each adapter though for the test) and that's how I conducted my tests with both lanterns.
I did test both LEDs when I got them. I tried just one battery but it did not work. Two batteries did work. I used a Fenix LD20 tube to put both Eneloops in and used old speaker wire to wire up the test setup. Both worked obviously.
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Why you need to put a copper penny between the LED and the stock heatsink which will increase the thermal resistance. Also, apply the Arctic Silver layer as thin as possible and press the MCPCB until the Arctic Silver is set. Don't press on the len of the LED.
Yes I made sure to press on the PCB and not the LED. What do you mean the copper penny willl increase thermal resistance? If anything I thought it would transfer the heat BETTER than if it wasn't there. The whole stock heatsink got hot so the heat is obviously transferring well from the LED.
Chrisdm
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CyberCT, was the stock PCB riveted or glued to the heatsink? Mine was glued, and I couldn't pry it off... Another person also said theirs was glued (versus the rivet mount of the original modder's instructions, which had to be drilled out)... The last guy's solution was just to file the stock LED/PCB down to the metal. Not an elegant solution, but I couldn't find a better way...
coachclass / Chrisdm
Have you both noticed the whole heatsink getting hot when on the high mode? I put the bottom assembly together (so it looks like the stock lantern without the stock removable top on) so the LED and heatsink were covered. 20 minutes later I take it apart and the whole heatsink was hot (not boiling hot, but hot). I left it for 20 minutes facing up. Took it apart checked the heatsink and it was hot. Then after it cooled I hung it upside down for 20 minutes assembled like stock, took it apart, and the heatsink was hot. So either upside down or right side up, it didn't seem to make a difference.
Have you both noticed the whole heatsink getting hot when on the high mode? I put the bottom assembly together (so it looks like the stock lantern without the stock removable top on) so the LED and heatsink were covered. 20 minutes later I take it apart and the whole heatsink was hot (not boiling hot, but hot). I left it for 20 minutes facing up. Took it apart checked the heatsink and it was hot. Then after it cooled I hung it upside down for 20 minutes assembled like stock, took it apart, and the heatsink was hot. So either upside down or right side up, it didn't seem to make a difference.
Another user used a copper pipe end cap as a heatsink with good results, so I don't think there is a problem unless I'm missing something:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?293906-Mag-mod-copper-endcap-hack-(Pics-added)
I will have to try the xacto chiseling blade to get that damn heatsink off. I really want to find a good driver now for the lantern to use the batteries more efficiently. When trying to file the stock LED off, I accidently filed the wires down too so I will have to replace the wires. Getting them thread through and angled through the small hole is going to be a pain.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?293906-Mag-mod-copper-endcap-hack-(Pics-added)
I will have to try the xacto chiseling blade to get that damn heatsink off. I really want to find a good driver now for the lantern to use the batteries more efficiently. When trying to file the stock LED off, I accidently filed the wires down too so I will have to replace the wires. Getting them thread through and angled through the small hole is going to be a pain.
CyberCT, I don't have a Rayovac lantern. I studied those pictures again and found out why they put a piece of copper between the MCPCB and the heatsink. The MCPCB is 12.8mm or 14mm which requires a piece of metal to increase the contact area and cover the hole in the heatsink. If you are using 20mm star, in my opinion, it is not necessary to place a copper coin there.
Well I did some more testing tonight of my 1st modded lantern. I kept the covering off this time, so the LED and heatsink were exposed to the air directly. I left the lantern on high mode for 15 minutes (with 6 newly charged eneloops in 3 2xAA adapters). The heatsink was still hot to the touch exposed to air directly. I don't think the high mode is a good idea for anything longer than 5 minutes at a time.
I do also have a TK41 with an Olight diffuser I bought, and I did some comparisons between the two. Even with the diffuser, the beam of the TK41 was still a little throwy compared to the pure flood of the Rayovac lantern. So I took a piece of wax paper and put it over the Olight diffuser, which helped to make the TK41's beam more floody / less throwy. Honestly there really isn't much of a difference between the TK41 on the high mode, and the lantern on the high mode. The lantern might have been a tad brighter, IDK. I bumped up the TK41 to turbo, and then noticed a difference of course. The TK41 is supposed to put out 335 ANSI luments on high mode. I really don't think the 300 lumens claimed by Rayovac from the factory is ANSI, it's probably at the emitters.
I brought the lantern upstairs (cause I did all my previous testing in a large basement) and was very surprised at how bright even low mode was. it lit up the entire kitchen and living room. I brought it up to my bedroom upstairs. I put it on high mode and I couldn't tell much of a difference between the output of my 40 watt equivilant CFL and the lantern on high. On low mode the room was still plenty bright to see anything or even read. So I have a lantern with a very good "low" mode for camping and such. Wouldn't use high for more than 10 minutes cause it gets too hot. I'll have to see if I can look into installing a driver and forward clicky. Maybe I can get a lower low mode at least. On the stock "low" mode, the heatsink is just warm to the touch BTW, even when covered like normal.
I do also have a TK41 with an Olight diffuser I bought, and I did some comparisons between the two. Even with the diffuser, the beam of the TK41 was still a little throwy compared to the pure flood of the Rayovac lantern. So I took a piece of wax paper and put it over the Olight diffuser, which helped to make the TK41's beam more floody / less throwy. Honestly there really isn't much of a difference between the TK41 on the high mode, and the lantern on the high mode. The lantern might have been a tad brighter, IDK. I bumped up the TK41 to turbo, and then noticed a difference of course. The TK41 is supposed to put out 335 ANSI luments on high mode. I really don't think the 300 lumens claimed by Rayovac from the factory is ANSI, it's probably at the emitters.
I brought the lantern upstairs (cause I did all my previous testing in a large basement) and was very surprised at how bright even low mode was. it lit up the entire kitchen and living room. I brought it up to my bedroom upstairs. I put it on high mode and I couldn't tell much of a difference between the output of my 40 watt equivilant CFL and the lantern on high. On low mode the room was still plenty bright to see anything or even read. So I have a lantern with a very good "low" mode for camping and such. Wouldn't use high for more than 10 minutes cause it gets too hot. I'll have to see if I can look into installing a driver and forward clicky. Maybe I can get a lower low mode at least. On the stock "low" mode, the heatsink is just warm to the touch BTW, even when covered like normal.
Yes, there was a discussion on the other thread.. and it doesn't run hot at all if driven correctly. You may see my comparison shots here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...man-Extreme-300-Lumen-Lantern-MORE-INFO/page8
By the way.. just replacing the LED is far from ideal. For best results, use a flashlight LED driver (such as the 1.4A shiningbeam driver), and a clicky switch (that's a bit annoying to install, but doable)
Also, I used a reflector in order to collect most of the light that would go upwards and pointed it to the upper part of the lantern, which reflects it back down.
Also, I used a reflector in order to collect most of the light that would go upwards and pointed it to the upper part of the lantern, which reflects it back down.
Hey I wanted to say thanks to the posters in this thread. I have been lurking the forums for a really long time. I've been looking for a decent lantern and of course went straight to CPF. Found this thread, and the older one above it and now I think I am not only picking up a lantern, but starting my first mod project as well. Oh, and I made an account to get involved. So anyway, thanks guys.
Now for a question, it seems most everyone performing the mod is using AA batteries, is this a matter of preference/convenience or necessity? Can I still run the D batteries after the mod?
Now for a question, it seems most everyone performing the mod is using AA batteries, is this a matter of preference/convenience or necessity? Can I still run the D batteries after the mod?
Hey thanks for the welcome. I am planing on the same components you used according to the other thread. Is there any sites that sell all the pieces together? Also, I googled cncqualitygoods before I ordered anything and read a few things about not receiving product, or it taking an extremely long time. Anything to worry about?
Also, where did you get the boom reflector? I cant find it.
Thanks, sorry for all the newbie questions that are probably better asked in the dedicated forum.
Hi Nick4,
I don't think there is any site selling all the parts together, so you need to source your parts from around the world..
cnqualitygoods.. well, yes - the led took ages to arrive (over a month), but it did arrive in good condition.. so there's not much to worry about unless you're in a hurry
the reflector - digi-key sell it, but it can get expensive to buy just one. What I did was.. I discovered that Farnell distribute LEDiL products, so I found the Farnell distributor in my country, and ordered it through my closest distributor, and it was pretty cheap that way. You can find your closest distributor here: http://export.farnell.com/jsp/home/exportHome.jsp
I don't think there is any site selling all the parts together, so you need to source your parts from around the world..
cnqualitygoods.. well, yes - the led took ages to arrive (over a month), but it did arrive in good condition.. so there's not much to worry about unless you're in a hurry
the reflector - digi-key sell it, but it can get expensive to buy just one. What I did was.. I discovered that Farnell distribute LEDiL products, so I found the Farnell distributor in my country, and ordered it through my closest distributor, and it was pretty cheap that way. You can find your closest distributor here: http://export.farnell.com/jsp/home/exportHome.jsp
I was wondering whether I should source these parts and sell them off as "upgrade packs" for this lantern. Not sure if there is enough interest though. I think I would be able to sell them for around $25 (including worldwide shipping).. but nothing final yet. For those reading this - would you be interested in such a pack:?
1x XML star (T6 3C bin)
LEDiL BOOM-W reflector
1.4A shiningbeam driver
shiningbeam s-mini switch
Not included in the package:
arctic silver / alumina (or any thermal epoxy)
skill and patience
1x XML star (T6 3C bin)
LEDiL BOOM-W reflector
1.4A shiningbeam driver
shiningbeam s-mini switch
Not included in the package:
arctic silver / alumina (or any thermal epoxy)
skill and patience
I would certainly be interested and be good for at least 2 kits. It would be easier for me since I am not really sure what I need to buy. The driver part seems simple enough. The LED is what I find confusing. The pics of the LED on CNC don't really match what I see on other sites. The LED on CNC seems like it is already applied to a smallish board either 16 or 20mm, whereas the pic on other sites show just the LED itself. To me, it looks like the one from CNC would be easier to deal with. That probably sounds ridiculous for someone who has been in the game for awhile so I am letting my newb status really show. Id link what I am talking about but I don't think i am supposed to link to outside sites like that.
By the way, for anyone interested, I found boom at Mouser electronics, which is much cheaper if you are trying to get it in the US.
By the way, for anyone interested, I found boom at Mouser electronics, which is much cheaper if you are trying to get it in the US.
