Rayovac Sportsman Extreme 300 Lumen Lantern - MORE INFO ???

scintillator

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Great post clockclimb,very informative.One could consider turning the heat sink into a bug zapper unit :thumbsup:,but realistically I know that is not going to happen.
 

clockclimb

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I haven't sealed it yet. I will just work some clear silicone caulk or clear epoxy into the slots around the copper straps above and below. When I mod my other Sportsman I will post some before and after shots showing light levels.
 

netprince

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I just modded one of the new 240 lumen models from amazon. They have tweaked the heatsink a little. The fins are now veritcal instead of horizontal, and the fins kind of wrap around the 24mm mcpcb. I prefer the old heatsink personally.

IMG_20130608_115604.jpg
 

ricepower

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Other than Rayovac Extreme 300. what other brand/model of lantern out of the box w/ same spec (300 lumen)?
 

Bullzeyebill

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Other than Rayovac Extreme 300. what other brand/model of lantern out of the box w/ same spec (300 lumen)?

Welcome to CPF. :) The topic of this thread is the Raovac Sportsman Extreme 300 Lumen Lantern. Please feel free to start your own thread with that question.

Bill
 

TronPlayer

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What modifications did you perform? I would like to replace the LED with a warmer version, any suggestions?


I just modded one of the new 240 lumen models from amazon. They have tweaked the heatsink a little. The fins are now veritcal instead of horizontal, and the fins kind of wrap around the 24mm mcpcb. I prefer the old heatsink personally.

IMG_20130608_115604.jpg
 

netprince

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I installed an XM-L2 neutral (4000K), 1.4amp 3 mode linear driver, and clicky switch.

I tried the XML mod with the stock driver, but it didn't work correctly due to the change in forward voltage. (it was way to hot)

What modifications did you perform? I would like to replace the LED with a warmer version, any suggestions?
 

Stainz

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I let the batteries leak in one of my trio of Rayovac Sportsman Extreme 300 lanterns. Cleaned out with fresh batteries it just strobes - and you cannot control anything with the switch. Any one have an idea on this fault?? Thanks!
 

hanzo

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Hi,

Question. If I were to use 3 x AA Eneloops with D-sleeves and assuming fully charged at around 2,000 Mah, does that mean that I can expect just under 2 hours on high and around 4 hours on low? Not too up to speed on "battery math".

Thanks!


That's what I do when I pack it camping. I usually change the batteries once every other trip. We usually go three days a pop and use the lantern night for at least an hour or two. Not really good with the technical stuff, but we have never had it run out of juice on us. And we have headlamps and flashlights as back up.

Always good to have back up. My friend went night diving by himself (already stupid!) and only brought his main dive light with no back up (double stupid!!). His light went out while he was still diving and he swam into a jelly and got stung all across his face and torso. He made it out and lived to tell. But STUPID! Could have won a Darwin award.
 

ryukin2000

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I want to entertain an idea and see if its even workable with this new modded Lantern. Credit goes to Poppy for the idea. In addition to this rayovac mod i would like to solder the ground wire from a male USB plug to the negative post (pre-Clicky switch) and the positive usb wire to the positive post of the lantern. would i then be able to plug it into my 4*18650 battery bank which can provide up to 2A to power the lantern? Also Thanks to Netprince for answering my questions in helping me along the way.

EDIT: just triggered another idea. if it works i should also be able to plug it into my samsung smartphone 2A wall charger no? as it also supples 5V usb spec.
 
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Poppy

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I want to entertain an idea and see if its even workable with this new modded Lantern. Credit goes to Poppy for the idea. In addition to this rayovac mod i would like to solder the ground wire from a male USB plug to the negative post (pre-Clicky switch) and the positive usb wire to the positive post of the lantern. would i then be able to plug it into my 4*18650 battery bank which can provide up to 2A to power the lantern? Also Thanks to Netprince for answering my questions in helping me along the way.

EDIT: just triggered another idea. if it works i should also be able to plug it into my samsung smartphone 2A wall charger no? as it also supples 5V usb spec.

ryukin2000,
Thanks for the props! :)

I tried two or three different USB supply wall-warts to power the Energizer LED folding lantern with my USB mod, and they all failed. BUT, I found that I could power the lantern from the power bank, while the wall-wart charged the power bank. I didn't check to see if the wall wart kept up with the drain, or not. I mention this as a possible work-around for you if needed. Maybe it'll help.
 

ryukin2000

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Quick test and it works! first with my 2A power bank. was using my usb volt/amp meter. not the moist accurate. but on low it went to 70-100ma. mid it was 500-580ma and on high it was the full 1.54A. then i tried it with my cheap $2 usb wall charger(lower quality). supposed to be up to 2A but on high it was only reading 800ma. last I tried with my samsung note 2 charger. it read full 1.54A on high. I'll be permanently making that male USB as part of the lantern for extra power option now.



 
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ryukin2000

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Finally completed my upgrades to the 3D and Mini Sportsman Lanterns. Thanks again to Poppy for the USB idea. it's such a cool feature to have now.

3D Sportsman Mod
Emitter: Cree XM-L2, 16mm Round MCPCB Copper Direct Thermal, T5, 5C1 (4000K) from illum Supply (Should've gone with 20mm board but the tint is perfect)
Driver: 4xAMC7135 (1.52A) 3/5 Mode Driver (Nanjg 101-AK-A1) from illum Supply
Reflector: Took it from my cheap cree XML T6 zoomable flashlight
GITD 14mm silicone tail cap from BG (a little too big)
Reverse Clicky switch from BG
Added standard Male USB plug. Terminated the data wires. Wired parallel.
Notes/Comments: Kept the stock diffuser and drilled holes in it for more air flow. I highly suggest using a reflector as others before me have. It really cuts down on the horizontal glare and helps redirect a lot of the light downwards. Using a 20mm star would've been better. Disclaimer: Edited. I use the USB power option with the batteries removed as it is not a good idea to have power coming from both the batteries and the usb source be it a wall charger or power bank. Different voltages and capacity. If you choose to do this mod I would be very mindful and only use one or the other for powering it.
Pics





3AA Sportsman Mini Mod

Emitter: Nichia NVSL219AT-H1 4500K, 92 CRI, B10 Bin - 20mm Star From illum Supply(not as warm as I thought it would be)
Driver: 4xAMC7135 (1.52A) 3/5 Mode Driver (Nanjg 101-AK-A1) from illum Supply
Reflector: None
Reverse Clicky switch from BG
Reused the stock silicone tail cap
Added standard Male USB plug. Terminated the data wires. Wired parallel
Notes/Comments: Kept the stock diffuser and drilled holes in it for more air flow. Space is very tight in the mini so I dremelled out one of the 4 mounting channels to make room for the driver. Also drilled a big hole directly underneath my switch location to seat it lower. My first attempt at putting the housing back together it smooshed the clicky and damaged it so second time I drilled out the hole to get it lower. Luckly I ordered spare switches. Disclaimer: Edited. I use the USB power option with the batteries removed as it is not a good idea to have power coming from both the batteries and the usb source be it a wall charger or power bank. Different voltages and capacity. If you choose to do this mod I would be very mindful and only use one or the other for powering it.
Pics




 
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Poppy

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Finally completed my upgrades to the 3D and Mini Sportsman Lanterns. Thanks again to Poppy for the USB idea. it's such a cool feature to have now.

3D Sportsman Mod
Emitter: Cree XM-L2, 16mm Round MCPCB Copper Direct Thermal, T5, 5C1 (4000K) from illum Supply (Should've gone with 20mm board but the tint is perfect)
Driver: 4xAMC7135 (1.52A) 3/5 Mode Driver (Nanjg 101-AK-A1) from illum Supply
Reflector: Took it from my cheap cree XML T6 zoomable flashlight
GITD 14mm silicone tail cap from BG (a little too big)
Reverse Clicky switch from BG
Added standard Male USB plug. Terminated the data wires.
Notes/Comments: Kept the stock diffuser and drilled holes in it for more air flow. I highly suggest using a reflector as others before me have. It really cuts down on the horizontal glare and helps redirect a lot of the light downwards. Using a 20mm star would've been better. Disclaimer: I use the USB power option with the batteries removed as it is wired pre-switch. My assumption is that it would add the USB(5V) and 3D(4.5V) making it 9.5V which would kill the LED?? If you choose to do this mod I would be very mindful and only use one or the other for powering it. Someone more knowledgeable, please correct me if I am wrong as I am just guessing.

Great mods, through and through! :)

If I read your post correctly, and you soldered your USB wires to the battery box, without disconnecting the original wires that go to the battery box, THEN you soldered the USB input in a parallel configuration, and THAT would NOT add the voltages.

I wouldn't run the lantern with both, the batteries, AND the USB power bank at the same time. I believe that could cause a problem.
EDIT: Clarification, I would not have both sets of batteries connected to the lantern at the same time.
 

ryukin2000

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Ah that makes sense. I sketched it out for visual and yeah it's a wired in parallel. Thanks for the correction. And as you said it's probably still not best to run both sources concurrently, especially with different voltages and capacities.

Great mods, through and through! :)

If I read your post correctly, and you soldered your USB wires to the battery box, without disconnecting the original wires that go to the battery box, THEN you soldered the USB input in a parallel configuration, and THAT would NOT add the voltages.

I wouldn't run the lantern with both, the batteries, AND the USB power bank at the same time. I believe that could cause a problem.
EDIT: Clarification, I would not have both sets of batteries connected to the lantern at the same time.
 

Poppy

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I just looked at the Cree data sheet, and the T5 @ 1.5 amps should give about 500 lumens.
I'm curious to know what kind of run-time will the 3Ds be able to give at that level.

I have a 1050ma driver coming on a slow boat from China, that must be dodging ice-bergs, that I plan to try with my 3D Ozark Trail lantern. I chose the lower output for longer run-times, and at higher outputs that lantern would be too glarey. Also alkalines perform pretty well, under low load, but not so good under high load.

I foresee some NiMH D cells in your future :)
 
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ryukin2000

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i too am curious on alkaline run times. but am too cheap to buy a fresh set and test it you haha. i don't have a charge for Nimh D cells so that would add to the cost. probably wont buy in the near future.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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Since this seems to be the definitive thread on the Rayovac Sportsman Xtreme, I thought I would post the original Favourlight PDF spec sheet as seen linked here:

Link
 
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