RECOIL LED

[lucca brassi]

I'm reading more and more themes about ''recoil led'' UF-007 , UF-008

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22934

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/213419&page=2

I have almost start to put together pieces in that way to upgrade WKKP testube light in recoil light (SST-90 with my own current driver 12A capable (btw. it is not maglite dimensions capable because of large coil/(some advantages) ;but I have my own enclosures :huh) allready have original reflector 8°, but I think I need more concave mirror.

THE PRIZE CHALLENGE IT IS : WHERE TO GET ALUMINIUM ELECTROPOLISHED (saltwater resistant) CONCAVE MIRROR D=3''(75mm) F= 2''(50mm) :twothumbs
focus it is adjustable - so F from mirror can vary

 

[350xfire]

I'm reading more and more themes about ''recoil led'' UF-007 , UF-008

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22934

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/213419&page=2

I have almost start to put together pieces in that way to upgrade WKKP testube light in recoil light (SST-90 with my own current driver 12A capable (btw. it is not maglite dimensions capable because of large coil/(some advantages) ;but I have my own enclosures :huh) allready have original reflector 8°, but I think I need more concave mirror.

THE PRIZE CHALLENGE IT IS : WHERE TO GET ALUMINIUM ELECTROPOLISHED (saltwater resistant) CONCAVE MIRROR D=3''(75mm) F= 2''(50mm) :twothumbs
focus it is adjustable - so F from mirror can vary

Could you not polish the aluminum and then clear anodize? How about a polished stainless reflector?

 

[Benson]

There's been a reflector manufacturer advertising on CPF for a bit now -- Phoenix Electroforms or something like that -- they might have something.

 

[TorchBoy]

Re: Recoil LED

(SST-90 with my own current driver 12A capable ... WHERE TO GET ALUMINIUM ELECTROPOLISHED (saltwater resistant) CONCAVE MIRROR

9-12 A through an LED in saltwater sounds like a good recipe for making hydrogen and oxygen gas at the LED terminals. I wonder what that'll do to the light pattern.

 

[lucca brassi]

9-12 A through an LED in saltwater sounds like a good recipe for making hydrogen and oxygen gas at the LED terminals. I wonder what that'll do to the light pattern.

not at all - I will put terminals from led in the normal ceramic socket for GU 5,3 halogen lamps under aluminium cone (NOT ON THE PICTURE)

acrylglass tube wall thickness 3mm (no more glass breaking because of wrong cutting ), instead of three SSC-P7 one SST90






I put in the bottom of parabole cone from aluminium to dissapate direct led beam to the bottom and make it useful. ( aton light has that one).

 

[mbsub]

possible mirror I found in the kitchen - stainles steel , need right size and deep.

Hi,

we do not have the 1st April.


Michael

 

[TorchBoy]

Re: Recoil LED

possible mirror I found in the kitchen - stainles steel , need right size and deep.

I love it! You must make this light.

One problem though - you'll get total internal reflection off the inside of the acrylic tube. :sigh:

 

[lucca brassi]

I got all or try so

no serious :

you'll get total internal reflection off the inside of the acrylic tube

agree and that is the problem ; this brings lower brightness eficiency- loses.

 

[TorchBoy]

It would be better to have a single flat piece of acrylic across the front.

 

[Goldigger]

You should try and contact Uri Geller, he might have some more suitable spoons... Or he might be able to bend them into the right shape

 

[lucca brassi]

about mirrors - Off topic

- SS can be polished to high reflectiveness
http://www.ssina.com/finishes/sheetsamples.html#image

- it is salt water resistant (317 grade)

- it is very hard for modeling (rigid and may crack ) but once you have
proper model and press or lathe .....

 

[lucca brassi]

finally found reflector 3° and 37° ; fi=60mm ;
www.conrad.de if link don't works ; catalogue number 180814

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/...productname=OPTIK-F-LUMIL-LUXEON-IIIIK2-3GRAD

P.S. there is a lot of equipment for cooling leds , lenses and other mirrors ( I use business catalogue 2010)

forthat project at that time I have plexi test tube , beamsplitter ( must be applied mirror coating ) and CC driver with 95% of components (circuit simulated and verified ) , must get AluPCB from local PCB factory .....) after I came from Malta .

 

[LukeA]

That's not a reflector, it's a catadioptric TIR optic that only works properly with Luxeon I and III LEDs.

 

[jspeybro]

possible mirror I found in the kitchen - stainles steel , need right size and deep.

I put in the bottom of parabole cone from aluminium to dissapate direct led beam to the bottom and make it useful. ( aton light has that one).

actually, I've seen people use aluminum/steel bowls and ashtrays from Ikea as a reflector in a DIY projector. this worked quite well, but the requirements were a bit different. In a flashlight/divelight, you want to focus the light, at least to some degree. In a projecter, one uses a fresnell lens to do the focussing. The ikea reflectors were only used to get more light in the forward direction.

anyway, for a light, I'm afraid you'll get a similar result. lots of light, but very floody. Reason is because these things are usually spherical (due to easy to manufactur). To be able to focus the light coming from a (more or less) point source, you need a parabolic reflector to create a parallel beam and the source needs to be in the focal point.

about total internal reflection, not entrirely true... only the portion of the light that goes more or less along the tube will reflect internally. As soon as the angle of incidence on the glass is big enough, it will pass through the glass. I would need to calculate the angle.

isn't this the system that is used in the aton light, except not with a sst-90? perhaps you can use such reflectors, don't they sell them at the oxycheq website?

 

[lucca brassi]

these things are usually spherical (due to easy to manufactur).

- true (you have to skimm profile if it suit for purpose , maybe you must cut out right curve from side... depends

isn't this the system that is used in the aton light,

-yes this system has aton but it is direct orientated light with beamsplitter. I see a problems here ( even it could be relative easy to solve them )with heat - special with 30W beast. Aton could choose also side emiting lens .

www.ekspoled.lt/.../Designing%20with%20lenses%20and%20secondary%20optics.pdf

for info :they sell aton for 379€ (reduced prize from 590€ or something):devil:

with recoil orientation I see here some advantages like:

- very small heatsink (and light too)
- direct cooling in the water
- clever design with small volume
- simple focusing ( even I see here some problems because LED radiation
angle)
- tradition in DIR even this is a little ''out'' with new technologies

- for me it is something different what give me just little more interest (to
combine optics , led, electronics ) most important at the moment

problems here are:

- radiation angle of led
- parabola construction

problems between diving:

- in murky water there are problems of effciency because of mud in the
water there is reduced reflection !

but if this parameters fit together - it is hell of light (if you look pictures in links at first post ) even with low power led

that only works properly with Luxeon I and III LEDs

question here is radiation angle of led and size of led

That's not a reflector, it's a catadioptric TIR optic

I don't see there any lens? Catadioptric TIR optic is combination of TIR lens and mirror evaporated on cone side of TIR lens do made better efficiency .... and single lens with diameter 60 mm ? - never see such thing except for clouster with more emiters.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
I see alot of self made constructions of parabolla special in RF antennas
for WAN and SAT recivers (from top of garbage can with 50 cm in dia) and some others in GHz ) all works on long distane pretty well.

 

[jspeybro]

I see another problem. You need to protect the user from turning it on above the water for to long, since your heatsink (water) will not be available. Maybe you could use something that detects if it is in the water or not (like the suunto computers do).

 

[gcbryan]

I see another problem. You need to protect the user from turning it on above the water for to long, since your heatsink (water) will not be available. Maybe you could use something that detects if it is in the water or not (like the suunto computers do).

UK has a recoil led and addresses this problem I believe with a thermistor which limits current at a certain temp.

 

[lucca brassi]

I see another problem. You need to protect the user from turning it on above the water for to long, since your heatsink (water) will not be available. Maybe you could use something that detects if it is in the water or not (like the suunto computers do).

yes you have right jspeybro this system is called ''wet contacts'' looks somethink like that (some old scheme for lamps like Fa-Mi rechargable)

termistor or some other thermal device(have very small bimetals) is also fine but I have very limited space and I dont't like another two wires through light path.

 

[gcbryan]

This is a little off subject but you seem knowledgeable about these things...

Is it possible to construct a reed switch/relay or hall effect sensor switch in the same space as the regular "clicky" switch found on hand held flashlights?

In other words would it be possible to take a clicky switch assembly (push button switch) such as http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5632 and remove the microswitch and replace it with a hall effect sensor or reed switch/relay on that same board with the contact spring. You would then just epoxy over the tailcap hole of course.

This is beyond what I can currently do but I would like to know if it's even possible. I don't know how big or complex these things are.

It would be nice to have a part that could replace any existing push bottom switch with magnetic switching capability.

 

[lucca brassi]

I never work with ''clicky switches'' so I don't know about space you have but for sure I'll take hall switch , FET and resistor .
I would put all these in the tail cap and moulded in to the plastic. Magnet with springbolt on rotary disc to secure position.

Circuit is the same as packhorses uses , just reed is exchanged with hall switch and magnet uses only south pole. Because I have to made some switches for new lids I'll make photos - at the end whole thing is moulded into acryl plastic.(till wednesday )