RECOMMENDATION: Osram P-VIP UHP Lamp spotlight

[troller_cpf]

So,
it's been a while now that I am thinking about building a long range spotlight using what seems to be nowadays the latest in "throw" technology: the UHP lamps.

More specifically, I am refering to the Osram P-VIP lamps (I can also use the Philips UHP).

Basically the whole thing should be quite easy to do, as the ballast for these lamps are widely available (unlike in the case of ballast for Xenon Short Arc lamps...).

I only have one big doubt concerning what kind of lamp is the best to achieve MAX throw "maxabeam style".

Currently P-VIP lamps rated 120W (the one I am interested in) are produced in four different configurations:
- Parabolic reflector with 1,3 mm of arc gap
- Eliptical reflector with 1,3 mm of arc gap
- Parabolic reflector with 1,0 mm of arc gap
- Eliptical reflector with 1,0 mm of arc gap

I would obviously choose the lamp with 1 mm of arc gap, BUT I DO NOT KNOW if is better to take the Parabolic lamp OR the Eliptical and then put, in the front an aspherical lens, just where the "second" focal point of the eliptical reflector is.:thinking:

What would be the best chose?

Please bear in mind that I DO NOT WISH to open the lamp assembly and try to remove the lamp from the reflector.

Thanks!!!!

 

[ma_sha1]

Would love to see something like this made,

There was one guy who built a UHP a while back, showed some promise,
but he had to do some mods on the ballast.

The Lamp also need active cooling, his went due to heat before he could finish.
Which model has the 1mm gap/parabolic?
Where are you going to get the ballasts from?

 

[troller_cpf]

You can find the full line of Osram P-VIP lamps here:

http://prolight.info/pdf_specs/OSRAM-P-VIP.pdf

Concerning the 1 mm lamps, it is a pity that they DO NOT offer the P23 version. The letter tells you if it is Parabolic (P) or Eliptic (E) and the final number (21,22,23...) tells you the size of the reflector. The bigger the number is, the bigger the reflector.

Unfortunately, the P23 reflector is ONLY available with 1,3mm arc gap and NOT with 1mm...

but still the question is: should I go with the Parabolic and NO aspherical lens or should I go with the Eliptical and a aspheric lens?

Concerning the ballasts, they are called PT-VIP, and you can find lots of them on EBay (that is where I also plan to get the lamps).

 

[ma_sha1]

Thanks for the links.

but still the question is: should I go with the Parabolic and NO aspherical lens or should I go with the Eliptical and a aspheric lens?

I would not bother with Aspheric. Aspheric only collect 60 out of a 360 degree light source. It only make sense on LED which has 110-120 degree beam spread.

I tried a 4.5" Aspheric lens in front of HID lamp, the hot spot is not even half as bright as a 4" reflector does.


The parabolic P-VIP 100-120/1.3 P23a looks like the best choice, it's not 1 mm gap but the lumens is also mush higher than those with 1 mm gap.

 

[troller_cpf]

I tried a 4.5" Aspheric lens in front of HID lamp, the hot spot is not even half as bright as a 4" reflector does.

Yes I also noticed the same thing. I did the same with my Mag 2D 14W Solarc HID. A 3" aspheric lens made a very tight beam but it was less than 50% the brightness of a normal metal 2" SMO reflector.

The parabolic P-VIP 100-120/1.3 P23a looks like the best choice, it's not 1 mm gap but the lumens is also mush higher than those with 1 mm gap.

In this case I would think that the P-VIP 100-120/1.0 P22a is better. YES it has less lumens (3800 vs 4400) and a smaller reflector, BUT having a smaller arc it has 3800 lm/mm versus 3384 lm/mm of the 1.3 P23, so it should throw farther.

I own both a Mag 2D Welch Allyn 14W HID Solarc and a Xenonics Nighthunter One. Both produce 1000 lumens of light, but the Mag has got a 14W Hid with a 1,27 mm arc, while the Xenonics has got a 65W Xenon Short Arc with 0,9 mm arc, and it throws much much much further. Even with a big 4,5" reflector, I could not come even close to the NH performance with the Mag Hid...
that's why I suppose that the arc gap makes a huge difference, IMHO

 

[ma_sha1]

In this case I would think that the P-VIP 100-120/1.0 P22a is better. YES it has less lumens (3800 vs 4400) and a smaller reflector, BUT having a smaller arc it has 3800 lm/mm versus 3384 lm/mm of the 1.3 P23, so it should throw farther.

I didn't see the P-VIP 100-120/1.0 P22a in your pdf link.

Either one will be great thrower vs. regular HID, so when can we'll see the build?:naughty:

 

[troller_cpf]

I am actually trying to collect some money (I've got some stuff for sale on CPFMP), then I'll have to find a good host for the light, and then I should go for it!

 

[troller_cpf]

I have a two dumb "electrical" questions:

I will take either the US ballast or the EU ballast. They are both rated to 120W and they run, respectively, on 110 and 240 V AC.

1) Let's say that I take the 120 V US version... I cannot make it run with a 120V BATTERY PACK... right?? because the ballast goes on alternated current, while a big battery pack (let's say with many cells in series) will be on constant current...right?

2) SO --> The only way is to take a normal 12V battery pack and put in front a power inverter (to 120 or 240 V AC). right?
but in this case, do I need to buy an inverter with the EXACT power output as the ballast or even if I take a 300W inverter it will be fine? or will it burn the ballast?


thanks guys!

 

[ma_sha1]

Did you read this post?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/254557

His ballast runs on 330v DC.
Plus, the ballast won't run unless you short some connections to fool the
ballast which was used to take "Directions" from projector control panel
before deciding to fire up or not.

but in this case, do I need to buy an inverter with the EXACT power output as the ballast or even if I take a 300W inverter it will be fine? or will it burn the ballast?

If your ballast do work in AC, you just need to make sure the power inverter is rated >120W,
don't need to be exact. It'll deliver what ever watts that ballast pulls. So 300W inverter should be fine.

 

[Walterk]

My cents from playing with 12-24v DC inverters:

The inverter should be most efficient at 80% of its rating.
The inverter won't push more then you pull from the using-side.
You might need overrated inverter to handle peaks in power draw when starting up.

Edit: I would opt for a phoenix reflector suiting your host/budget to make all the effort really whortwhile.