Preamp
Newly Enlightened
You're not making it easier for me... 
Repairing a Fenix LD-01, need some help
- Thread starter Preamp
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You're not making it easier for me...
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
Ordered an LD15 now :tired:. Didn't want to go for another LD01, though I'll really miss the stainless steel body .
Meanwhile I designed a new board with an available regulator.
The IC itself will be about EUR 7,- without shipping, but I don't event want to know what the PCB manufacturing would cost me :green:...
Original board:
Preliminary draft:
You'll be the first to know should I decide to actually attempt building it.
.Meanwhile I designed a new board with an available regulator.
The IC itself will be about EUR 7,- without shipping, but I don't event want to know what the PCB manufacturing would cost me :green:...
Original board:
Preliminary draft:
You'll be the first to know should I decide to actually attempt building it
.
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
Thanks for your encouraging words, Norm! It keeps me thinking that I'm not completely nuts doing this :tinfoil:.
Since I'll have to order the chip at Farnell, I had a look for a new coil. Found a pretty neat one from Würth. It's the same height but a smaller footprint, while having only 100mR max and 1.8A saturaton current. Will be another EUR 2,-, but this way I manage to have the space left for the much easier to handle S8 package. The original MSOP8 has been hard enough to solder by hand, the aforementioned DFN8 would have been a real pain in the
... Here's the new draft:
Since I'll have to order the chip at Farnell, I had a look for a new coil. Found a pretty neat one from Würth. It's the same height but a smaller footprint, while having only 100mR max and 1.8A saturaton current. Will be another EUR 2,-, but this way I manage to have the space left for the much easier to handle S8 package. The original MSOP8 has been hard enough to solder by hand, the aforementioned DFN8 would have been a real pain in the
... Here's the new draft:
välineurheilija
Enlightened
Have you checked that the spring in the bottom of the bodytube is making a firm enough contact?sometimes the faults are simpler than you would think sorry for the post if you allready ruled that out and good luck trying to find out the problem 
sorry for the post if you allready ruled that out and good luck trying to find out the problem
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
Yes, I checked the spring several times now. Also the whole thing is not susceptible to knocking anywhere.
I'll have the new board made soon. Found a cheap offer; will be about EUR 20,- with a minimum board size of 12cm x 8cm... Enough space for four dozens
!
I'll have the new board made soon. Found a cheap offer; will be about EUR 20,- with a minimum board size of 12cm x 8cm... Enough space for four dozens
!
koala
Flashlight Enthusiast
Chinese chips hard to find? You are probably looking at the wrong place. Plenty if you know where to start
http://www.utsource.net/aic1610.html
tapatalk
http://www.utsource.net/aic1610.html
tapatalk
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
koala, I only looked at some local suppliers. For a valid reason, as it seems: Utsource has a minimum order of 10 bucks plus 25 shipping to germany! That's too much for not being sure if it's not the PCB.
Looks promising though, I'll keep it in mind for future reference. :thanks:
I'm currently working on an LED-based bike light where I need a PCB for, too. This small board here will fit in an empty corner easily, so the board costs are almost nil. Ordered the LTC3490 as sample, so it's free, too. My employer is going to place an order at RS-Components soon, so I'll save shipping costs and get inductor and capacitor from there. Not exactly my favorite components and I'll have to get 5 pieces at once, but still cheaper than Farnell's shipping.
Turns out not to be as costly as expected in the first place :twothumbs.
Looks promising though, I'll keep it in mind for future reference. :thanks:
I'm currently working on an LED-based bike light where I need a PCB for, too. This small board here will fit in an empty corner easily, so the board costs are almost nil. Ordered the LTC3490 as sample, so it's free, too. My employer is going to place an order at RS-Components soon, so I'll save shipping costs and get inductor and capacitor from there. Not exactly my favorite components and I'll have to get 5 pieces at once, but still cheaper than Farnell's shipping.
Turns out not to be as costly as expected in the first place :twothumbs.
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
Received my LD-15 yesterday. The tint is absolutely not greenish, it's even quite purplish! My LD-01 looks a bit greenish in direct comparison, or "ghostly", as my wife said
. The head is a bit short for my taste, but all in all I'm satisfied with it. Look and feel is great, hope longevity is as well!To be not too far off topic, here's a simulated graph of the new regulator's efficiency with some contemplable inductors:
Simulated load was a 1W LED at about 3,2V and 340mA max.
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
The circuit board arrived today. Still waitin' for the inductor, but I'll let you know when (or if) everyting's working.
Journeyman Ninja
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2012
- Messages
- 7
wow, now thats determination. the only other possibility might be that the pcb board itself might be starting to delaminate, causing breaks in the tracing that connects the groung ring and (+) dot on the battery side of the pcb to the other side -looks like there are 3 of those thru hole traces per polarity. from moisture or thermal cycling, the pcb may have begun to delaminate enough to cause intermittent connection, which also explains why overtightening the head of the light made it work sometimes, and heat of soldering made it quit for a while. since your getting all new components anyways, would it be worth a try to just solder a jumper into the holes? ive had this problem on other random stuff, and used just a single strand from a copper wire. dunno if its worth the trouble anymore....
Gunner12
Flashaholic
Very impressive amount of work for troubleshooting the light!
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
If the new board and all is working fine, then I'll try it
. But only on the workbench with lab supply and another emitter...On the other hand: full power mode is working best, after flickering around for a while in the lower modes, the light always ends up in full power mode and eventually stops working. Isn't current draw the highest in this mode? And shouldn't this put the most stress on the vias?
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
It works!!
Sorry, just had to say that loud
. I'm so glad it's working again...!
The final layout was done with the 3 x 3.2mm small Toko 1226 type coil in mind, since this is about the same size of the originally used coil. Heading for a lower resistance, I included the slightly bigger (3.7 x 3.9mm) Toko 1231 type in the efficiency calculation, being aware that it might already be too big. When I placed the order, I was eager to fit the bigger one in though, and finally managed to do it.
Please excuse the crappy pictures. Obviously a white background and the automatic macro mode of my cheap workshop-cam aren't a good match...
I wanted to have the copper coated in chemical gold but I only got HAL. Hope this is going to last at least another three years.
Oh, and I have another three boards and three inductors left, so if you want to repair your LD-01, simply drop me a line :naughty:!
Thank you all again for your encourage and helpful tips!
Sorry, just had to say that loud
. I'm so glad it's working again...!The final layout was done with the 3 x 3.2mm small Toko 1226 type coil in mind, since this is about the same size of the originally used coil. Heading for a lower resistance, I included the slightly bigger (3.7 x 3.9mm) Toko 1231 type in the efficiency calculation, being aware that it might already be too big. When I placed the order, I was eager to fit the bigger one in though, and finally managed to do it
.Please excuse the crappy pictures. Obviously a white background and the automatic macro mode of my cheap workshop-cam aren't a good match...
I wanted to have the copper coated in chemical gold but I only got HAL. Hope this is going to last at least another three years
.Oh, and I have another three boards and three inductors left, so if you want to repair your LD-01, simply drop me a line :naughty:!
Thank you all again for your encourage and helpful tips!
Congratulations :grouphug:It works!!
Sorry, just had to say that loud
Norm
tam17
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2011
- Messages
- 737
:thumbsup:
Preamp
Newly Enlightened
Everything's still running fine till now :thumbsup:.
The strange thing is, I'm actually carrying both my LD01 and my LD15 on the same keyring
!
FYI: there are two boards and inductors remaining...
EDIT: now's only one of each...
The strange thing is, I'm actually carrying both my LD01 and my LD15 on the same keyring
!FYI: there are two boards and inductors remaining...
EDIT: now's only one of each...
Last edited:
nanotech17
Flashlight Enthusiast
Everything's still running fine till now :thumbsup:.
The strange thing is, I'm actually carrying both my LD01 and my LD15 on the same keyring
FYI: there are two boards and inductors remaining...
EDIT: now's only one of each...
Good Job man - I salute you effort & knowledge.
since you already "playing" with the light engine - why not swap the emitter to the NW(neutral white) if you can any.
About that extra board you have - if i were you i will keep it as spare - just in case :thumbsup:
bladesmith3
Enlightened
how did you get the head apart to remove the pill?
