Replace my Maglite 2AA EDC X 40 years

[TD-Horne]

I lost my 2AA Maglite in the attic insulation. The stuff they used in 1947 when the place was built is super irritating to me so looking any more than I have is a non starter. Buying a Tyvek coverall, some gloves I won't mind throwing away or hanging on a hook in the attic for some future need, You get the idea.

The new Maglites have these multi function features that I cannot stand because of the way they are controlled. If I am trying to focus the light and accidentally turn it off the brightness drops to a level my 72 year old eyes do not appreciate. If I don't turn it off and count to 10 it changes to flash, then quick-flash, and then SOS.

Here is what I would like my next light to have.
Tail cap switch so I can leave the flashlight focused,
fairly even flood since I mostly use it for searching for stuff in unlighted shed and around radio operations shelter.
Similar form factor as the Maglite 2AA.

Everything else is optional. Maybe a rotary brightness ring would be nice but having never had an adjustable flashlight I don't even know if that is worth having. I'm still experimenting with sometimes high voltage radio circuitry so if it's practical I'd like to change to a non conductive shell. I'd still like to stay with AA batteries or something that fits in the AA place because AAs are available in the federal supply chain when I go out doing disaster recovery work. That doesn't mean I wouldn't want to use any other battery but if it is interchangeable with an AA battery that would be quite nice. I'm already using Lithium primary batteries for their non leaky (SO Far 🙏) service and cold temperature performance. On my last deployment the FEDs even had the Lithium AAs available. 😲 So why the Maglite AA form factor? I've been carrying that shape of light for 40+ years. I'm used to it that's why. It is what my hand expects when I grab for my flashlight. My belt pouch holds my phone, multi-tool, Multi-tool bit extension, bit kit, and flashlight. I'm not completely intractable if that is a bridge too far. I'm just a tad stubborn.

Any help appreciated.

Tom Horne

 

[chillinn]

I've recommended this a few times already in the last few days, Lumintop Tool AA 2.0, comes in Al also, but Cu is a better heat sink, so theoretically it should be brighter than Al. Constant current circuit, with Nichia 219C it is high CRI. AA or 14500. Not a zoomy. If that's a requirement, the recommendation is Coast HX5. It's single mode and direct drive, so no PWM, accepts both AA and 14500, and I believe it comes with a forward clicky. The emitter is probably cool white, but anyone with the hands to swap an emitter can do so with this light also. One more model to look for, Lumintop PK25, available at Going Gear and on AliExpress. 2AA like Mini Mag, with a larger reflector for better throw, 350Lm. Not much else is known about it, but I have designs on getting one myself.

 

[TD-Horne]

I've recommended this a few times already in the last few days, Lumintop Tool AA 2.0, comes in Al also, but Cu is a better heat sink, so theoretically it should be brighter than Al. Constant current circuit, with Nichia 219C it is high CRI. AA or 14500. Not a zoomy. If that's a requirement, the recommendation is Coast HX5. It's single mode and direct drive, so no PWM, accepts both AA and 14500, and I believe it comes with a forward clicky. The emitter is probably cool white, but anyone with the hands to swap an emitter can do so with this light also.

I want the 2AA length because my hands are quite large. I think that I would have trouble avoiding dropping the shorter ones.

Tom Horne

 

[chillinn]

The Osram NM1 in the PK25 seems to be 6000K, which I personally can't live with, so my recommendation for 2AA is the Lumintop PK25 sent to Vinh for an emitter swap. When the time comes, I will go with Nichia 219b in 3500K, though most others seem to prefer Nichia 219b 4200K. Either one is HiCRI. If opting for a modification of increased output, anything above 500Lm will probably require a different emitter, for which either Cree XP-L or Nichia 219c will do in pretty much any color temperature you like, but I highly recommend color temperatures between 3500K and 5200K to keep it neutral.

Also, you may be interested in the Streamlight ProTac 2AA. If I'm not mistaken, it is a forward-clicky, probably weighs less than the PK25, 250Lm max output, somewhat programmable for mode settings, has a cool white emitter which Vinh can very likely swap for something warmer and HiCRI, and Streamlight is an American company.

 

[xxo]

Look for a 272 lumen Mini Mag Pro - has a better tint than the newest 332 lumen version which has 2 modes. 272 lumens may be too bright if you are used to a incan Mini Mag though.

The Streamlight Protac 2AA should be good if you need the tail switch.

 

[chillinn]

Look for a 272 lumen Mini Mag Pro - has a better tint than the newest 332 lumen version which has 2 modes. 272 lumens may be too bright if you are used to a incan Mini Mag though.

Could you mean the new Mini Maglite AA LED Spectrum Series Warm White? Seems to be two modes, 57Lm and 14Lm, also has beacon and SOS modes. I have to get one of these!

The Mini Maglite Pro Plus LED 2AA has different specifications for each anodized color, which is pretty odd. Grey & Blue are 245Lm, Black is 361Lm, Silver, Camo & Dark Green are 281Lm. Doesn't say what Red is, but they all have two modes.

Mini Maglite Pro LED 2AA is 332Lm apparently with an "Eco mode" activated with "two quick twists" that I can find no mention of in the manual.

The new Maglites have these multi function features that I cannot stand because of the way they are controlled. If I am trying to focus the light and accidentally turn it off the brightness drops to a level my 72 year old eyes do not appreciate. If I don't turn it off and count to 10 it changes to flash, then quick-flash, and then SOS.

And it sounds like OP is already familiar with them, and that the twisty switch is an issue.

There is a nifty third-party forward clicky tail switch available that replaces the tailcap by LiteXpress for both incan and LED that may help mitigate the issue.

 

[hsa]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MYB5T73/?tag=cpf0b6-20

 

[scalpel_ninja]

What about a Convoy T4? Takes two AAs or two 14500 lithium ions. Program it once and done.

 

[chillinn]

What about a Convoy T4? Takes two AAs or two 14500 lithium ions. Program it once and done.

Convoy T4 is a pretty sweet deal. Choice of ano (grey, orange, or light grey), emitter and color temperature:

• Nichia 219c 4000k
• Nichia 219b 3000K, 3500K, or 4500K
• Nichia 519a 3500K
• Samsung LH351D 2700K, 3500K, 4000K, 5000K or 5700K
• Luminus Devices SST20 3000K, 4000K, 5000K or 6000K

If its driver is similar to Convoy S2, it's constant current. Can not beat the price. @scalpal_ninja, do you happen to know if there's a replacement forward clicky tail switch that can be swapped into the tailcap?

 

[scalpel_ninja]

@chillinn

There are S2+ forward clicky switches sold through the Convoy store on AliExpress. I believe they are compatible with the T4. Best to ask the owner Simon if they will work.

 

[desert.snake]

Quark QK2A MKIII - this one is not bad, although you can buy about 4 pcs Convoy T4 for this money

or

Waterproof LED Flashlight | 2AA ProPolymer® HAZ-LO®

this one is 4 * AA, it has an option with a front switch, but it's still pretty light

UK 4AA eLED RFL - Intrinsically Safe Flashlight

This high-intensity work light gives you the most lumens for your dollar! The Underwater Kinetics 4AA RFL is the latest intrinsically safe LED flashlight from the leader in waterproof, industrial lighting. Designed to keep you safely illuminated, the 4AA RFL delivers 225 lumens of high...

uwk.com

 

[bykfixer]

Since everything is geared to provide a million billion lumens and have a bunch of output levels these days, the mighty pen light makes more sense everyday.

No tacticool blinky's, no super nova bright for 43 seconds. Just some kind of practical output for fairly close up work or lighting a small shed. Won't go into specific models but will just say "check out penlights". I like the modern day doctor lights.

 

[cerbie]

If seriously considering the Convoy, a few IMO thoughts:

0. You can program it so that you never have to deal with blinky modes or anything. So, there's an initial learning curve for that, then you leave alone forever.

1. Either don't use max, or not often. It can get rather toasty, and 600lm only looks to be about double the brightness of 150lm.

2. For flood, I'd go with the 519A. Unless you really want a pink tint, or really want a golden tint, it'll have both the older Nichias beat across the board. It is one of the best neutral white power LEDs out there, ATM, and Convoy is using a high CRI one.

3. Samsung's specs are very, "mean," rather than, "mode." While efficient, both tint and color rendering are lotteries, even on their high-CRI emitters. It works out fine for typical customers, putting a couple dozen to a couple hundred in a fixture, but for single-emitter applications, they're best used for brightness only.

 

[chillinn]

Nichia makes LEDs, not flashlights. The Lumintop PK25, Convoy T4, Streamlight ProTac 2AA. are all 2xAA flashlights, as are the Maglites listed. If I missed other 2AA suggestions in the thread, my apologies.

Simon makes the Convoy T4 and lets you choose your emitter, and whatever color temperature is available for it, right on the product page when ordering. Lumintop and Streamlight both come with a cool white emitter that I was suggesting be replaced with something a little warmer and with better color rendition, which requires sending it to someone who can perform the emitter swap, and I suggested Vinh, a CPF member and proprietor of SkyLumens. Links above in my comments.

It shouldn't matter to you, @TD-Horne, but I've changed my mind about the Lumintop PK25 for now. It's very attractive, but it can wait. Soon as I can, I'm picking up a Mini Maglite AA LED Spectrum Series Warm White (plus a Spectrum Series Solitaire with red LED), and a Convoy T4 (and a Convoy S2+, which is an 18650 light). What is doing it for me is the warm emitter and low output of the Spectrum Series Maglite, that Convoy makes a 2AA flashlight, and that I can get a third party tailswitch for the Maglite, and that there is a replacement forward clicky switch that can be swapped into the Convoy tailcaps.

I don't know what you're looking for exactly, other than the flashlight run on two AA cells, but when I see that plus the low output warm emitter on the Mag, plus the fabulous choices of emitters on the Convoy, I can't resist. I must have them, and soon, they will be mine.

 

[TD-Horne]

I don't know what you're looking for exactly, other than the flashlight run on two AA cells, but when I see that plus the low output warm emitter on the Mag, plus the fabulous choices of emitters on the Convoy, I can't resist. I must have them, and soon, they will be mine.

I would prefer a non conductive shell, even flood pattern, a removable hardhat clip or strap, fits in the same diameter holsters that the 2 AA Mini Maglite does, some sort of on off switch. I don't want strobe, flashing light, nor SOS. If I could get an even flood pattern with a high output and low output that would be ideal but not essential. I'll look at the Maglite you mentioned.

Tom Horne

 

[E=mAh²]

Malkof

I lost my 2AA Maglite in the attic insulation. The stuff they used in 1947 when the place was built is super irritating to me so looking any more than I have is a non starter. Buying a Tyvek coverall, some gloves I won't mind throwing away or hanging on a hook in the attic for some future need, You get the idea.

The new Maglites have these multi function features that I cannot stand because of the way they are controlled. If I am trying to focus the light and accidentally turn it off the brightness drops to a level my 72 year old eyes do not appreciate. If I don't turn it off and count to 10 it changes to flash, then quick-flash, and then SOS.

Here is what I would like my next light to have.
Tail cap switch so I can leave the flashlight focused,
fairly even flood since I mostly use it for searching for stuff in unlighted shed and around radio operations shelter.
Similar form factor as the Maglite 2AA.

Everything else is optional. Maybe a rotary brightness ring would be nice but having never had an adjustable flashlight I don't even know if that is worth having. I'm still experimenting with sometimes high voltage radio circuitry so if it's practical I'd like to change to a non conductive shell. I'd still like to stay with AA batteries or something that fits in the AA place because AAs are available in the federal supply chain when I go out doing disaster recovery work. That doesn't mean I wouldn't want to use any other battery but if it is interchangeable with an AA battery that would be quite nice. I'm already using Lithium primary batteries for their non leaky (SO Far 🙏) service and cold temperature performance. On my last deployment the FEDs even had the Lithium AAs available. 😲 So why the Maglite AA form factor? I've been carrying that shape of light for 40+ years. I'm used to it that's why. It is what my hand expects when I grab for my flashlight. My belt pouch holds my phone, multi-tool, Multi-tool bit extension, bit kit, and flashlight. I'm not completely intractable if that is a bridge too far. I'm just a tad stubborn.

Any help appreciated.

Tom Horn

I would prefer a non conductive shell, even flood pattern, a removable hardhat clip or strap, fits in the same diameter holsters that the 2 AA Mini Maglite does, some sort of on off switch. I don't want strobe, flashing light, nor SOS. If I could get an even flood pattern with a high output and low output that would be ideal but not essential. I'll look at the Maglite you mentioned.

Tom Horne

I didn't quite make out the first part of that post but what I gather from its entirety is that you lost your beloved mini mag that's 40 years old!? Wow! You had that light for seven years before I was even born so good job keeping a light that long!

I'll keep this somewhat short and to the point: Unfortunately, while maglite has been around and continuously making products for well a long time, their technology and overall build quality has pretty much stagnated or in some cases as you have found out gotten objectively worse. However, you do have options. My recommendation for you sir without a doubt would be Malkoff mdc 2xAA. Doesn't focus but I think you'll find the beam (due to the prized reflector design) is so perfect for most any general EDC task and beyond that the focusing "feature" won't be missed. Malkoff While notably higher priced than your maglite offerings, they are also notably higher quality by a very large margin. USA based and designed and built owned and ran by husband and wife team in Alabama they have a phone number on site you can even call and chat Gene is very welcoming and happy to answer any questions and help build a light catered to your specific needs. Also, I know this from experience, should you have any issues at all with your light, I mean ANY short of losing it all together than he will no questions asked fix it for free. They have the best warranty in the business hands down.

Hope that helps and even if you do get a malkoff or any light for that matter I hope that eventually your old mag shows back up. That's a long time to own anything that you carry with you and use everyday.

Good luck!

 

[E=mAh²]

If seriously considering the Convoy, a few IMO thoughts:

0. You can program it so that you never have to deal with blinky modes or anything. So, there's an initial learning curve for that, then you leave alone forever.

1. Either don't use max, or not often. It can get rather toasty, and 600lm only looks to be about double the brightness of 150lm.

2. For flood, I'd go with the 519A. Unless you really want a pink tint, or really want a golden tint, it'll have both the older Nichias beat across the board. It is one of the best neutral white power LEDs out there, ATM, and Convoy is using a high CRI one.

3. Samsung's specs are very, "mean," rather than, "mode." While efficient, both tint and color rendering are lotteries, even on their high-CRI emitters. It works out fine for typical customers, putting a couple dozen to a couple hundred in a fixture, but for single-emitter applications, they're best used for brightness only.

I don't think he is too concerned with CRI or black lines and the difference between 3000k to even 5000k he didn't mention once his distaste for the new mags tint which you and I would probably hate, and he didn't say it but he did say he is in his 70s and his overall demeanor suggests to me that he has no interest in programming or any of that. Sounds like he wants a solid flashlight that runs on 2aa that could offer another 40 years of service or more. Which is why I suggested the malkoff mdc2aa the only thing that I could see him potentially turned off by would be the price..

 

[TD-Horne]

Which is why I suggested the malkoff mdc2aa the only thing that I could see him potentially turned off by would be the price..

Yes Sir. You have that right. I'm retired on a craft pension as an electrician. I worked in so many different aspects of the craft, because the stuff fascinated me and still does, that my pension is not as high as if I had stayed in construction with the IBEW. I just kept reaching out to do new things and that took me into some self employed contracting work with no benefits at all. I was young. I didn't think it through. If it weren't for a small county pension from 40 years as a volunteer firefighter rescuer I'd be strapped all the time. I'm not doing terribly and I'm certainly not impoverished like some of the folks I saw on ambulance calls but I'm not sitting in the lap of luxury either.

Tom Horne

 

[chillinn]

Fenix WF05E, nails a lot of your requirements, but it is 2xAAA. The AA version, Fenix WF11E, like a lot of AA non-conductive lights, is in a different cell format with cells side-by-side. The Pelican 2315, out of stock at Pelican but found elsewhere, is AA and in series cell format, but the clip is not reversible. Though there are a lot of models of them, the non-conducting body requirement severely limits your options regarding power and emitter choices. But while the Streamlight 2AA ProPolymer HAZ-LO flashlight doesn't have a reversible clip, it does clip head-up.

he didn't mention once his distaste for the new mags

Other than about the switch. But he also stuck with incan through the 5mm LED and powerLED revolutions, and the most rational reason to do that is simply because incan looks far better than nearly all if not all LED. The only way to mitigate that in the switch to LED is running 3000K - 3500K High CRI LEDs.

 

[kerneldrop]

This Merican made light is a tank and you'll pass it down for generations

MDC HA 2AA Flashlight – Malkoff Devices

Hard Anodized Black MDC (Malkoff Daily Carry) 2AA Flashlight. This is a tailcap switch activated 210-300 Lumen, multimode light. The Modes are Low-Med-High. It always comes on in Low. It will easily illuminate objects at 200+ feet. The LED is a White (5700K) or Neutral (4000K 95 CRI) Luminous...

malkoffdevices.com