Review: LRI Proton is ***HERE***NiMH Runtime Added...

[powernoodle]

Ok - got mine. So how do I remove the belt clip? Instructions say " . . . pull from top of clip firmly." But this ain't working for me.

Edited: stuck the pliers from a Leatherman S2 in between the body and clip, and pried her out. Even with my superhuman Powernoodle strength, I couldn't do it by hand.




cheers

 

[jar3ds]

powernoodle... what shipping did you select? mind telling us where your underground bunker is in relation to the US? lol...

whats your impressions?!

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Edit: MINE CAME!

 

[powernoodle]

powernoodle... what shipping did you select? mind telling us where your underground bunker is in relation to the US? lol...

whats your impressions?!

---

Edit: MINE CAME!

Mine shipped on friday and arrived on monday, about 2300 miles away, using USPS first class. So I suspect that most of the eager beavers who pre-ordered will get them today or tomorrow.

First impression is a good one. I like the user interface as I'm familiar with the Freedom Max. Comes with a nice belt holster. Clip is sturdy, tho I abandoned mine. Keychain attachment clip too. I can tell its plenty bright even tho darkness hasn't arrived.

Upside: easy UI with plenty of features; I like the various flashing/strobe modes in both white and red LED modes; plenty bright for most tasks, and low output ramps down to zilch, which I really like. That will come in handy at the movie theater. Nice lifetime warranty. Eats any flavor of AA. Maker is an established and known entity with a good rep.

Downside: costy; not flat regulated like we all prefer - which is the biggest downer for me but not a deal breaker. [Edited: regulation looks pretty good on NiMH - see the link below to Viren's chart]. Split ring almost impossible to remove without advanced degree in microsurgery, as its attachment point is recessed in the tail of the light. SOS feature has probably never been used in the history of mankind and gets in the way. The cost and regulation are the more important issues for me; the other stuff is quibbling.

Powernoodle gives the Proton a thumbs up.

I would recommend something else for those on a tight budget, as there are lots of lights out there that one could get by on just fine, and for a lot less money - but don't have the bells and whistles. This is a luxury item, a temporary fix for the addicts among us (me), and/or another good EDC option, depending on your needs.

cheers

 

[Dawg]

Just got mine out of the mailbox. Its cool.

 

[jar3ds]

i'm having problems getting it out of 'demo' POP mode...

If your Proton will only stay on for a few seconds then turns off, simply open the battery compartment and then re-close it. (The Proton's circuitry is designed with a Point of Purchase demonstration mode and is a true function of the light. If you wish this to be an option as part of your lighting modes, first you must open the battery case. Then press and hold the button down while you re-close the case. Your light will now be in the POP mode and will only stay on for 6 seconds. You will have access to the brightness control modes for both Primary & Secondary beams, however you will not be able to activate the Safety Features. To exit the POP mode, press and hold the button down until the light turns off.)

anyone else have any luck... mines not getting out of this mode no matter how many times i open / close it

EDIT:

I FIGURED IT OUT... you have to press & hold the button down for like 15 seconds... then it goes off ...

 

[MikeF]

Both of mine were waiting for me when I got home from work!


:rock:

 

[TrueBlue]

The Proton lights are arriving. ARC mania and Katokichi are each getting one so you see I'm not being greedy. We have plans.

 

[PhotonLight]

Ok - got mine. So how do I remove the belt clip? Instructions say " . . . pull from top of clip firmly." But this ain't working for me.

Edited: stuck the pliers from a Leatherman S2 in between the body and clip, and pried her out. Even with my superhuman Powernoodle strength, I couldn't do it by hand.

Personally, I think the instructions might be clearer if they read "pull from base of clip firmly." Grip the clip right where it attaches to the light and pull outwards. I suspected the "pull from top" line might lead to a bit of confusion and suggested the change but it looks like it didn't make it into the final version of the instructions (or at least not yet). If you have any suggestions for an even clearer way of describing that, or if there's anything else on the instruction sheet that doesn't make sense, I'll be happy to forward on any feedback. There should still be time to make some changes before the next bunch arrives.

Also, for those wondering, it looks like we're currently averaging 2.6 days for 1st Class Mail delivery over the past month.

Minimum 1 day, max 12 days (which I assume is due to notices being left and people taking a while to go pick up the package).

 

[TrueBlue]

Proton #1 is dead. The positive tab inside the barrel was lightly soldered on a flexible rod. I simply screwed off the barrel and the positive tab fell out. Luckily, the tab hit my foot so I knew something fell out. I replaced the battery and the light didn't work. Unluckily, the tab bounced under my dining table where darkness is frequent. Luckily, I had the reliable SF L4 light nearby and 5 minutes to spare to find the tab.

There is no way to put the tab back. The head is glued on tight. Even using rubber gloves to unscrew the head had no luck. I'm going to try to warm up the head to see if I can weaken the bond. If I don't then I get to try the lifetime LRI warranty.

If other Proton lights have as lightly soldered tab as the first one I tried then there are going to be a lot of returns.

 

[jar3ds]

Proton #1 is dead. The positive tab inside the barrel was lightly soldered on a flexible rod. I simply screwed off the barrel and the positive tab fell out. Luckily, the tab hit my foot so I knew something fell out. I replaced the battery and the light didn't work. Unluckily, the tab bounced under my dining table where darkness is frequent. Luckily, I had the reliable SF L4 light nearby and 5 minutes to spare to find the tab.

There is no way to put the tab back. The head is glued on tight. Even using rubber gloves to unscrew the head had no luck. I'm going to try to warm up the head to see if I can weaken the bond. If I don't then I get to try the lifetime LRI warranty.

If other Proton lights have as lightly soldered tab as the first one I tried then there are going to be a lot of returns.

that sucks... i've taken out my battery and put it back in about 20 times already and it hasn't fell out... hopefully its limited to only a few protons...

 

[loalight]

Just got mine. Initial impressions:

1) it fits PERFECTLY into the side pouch on a Leatherman Charge sheath. Awesomeness!!!

2) instructions could be clarified, and i'm sure they will be, but you'll certainly blunder into what you want in any case

3) although it did call my mommy to tell her I snuck home from work to get the mail, the tint isn't angry. petulant, perhaps?

3.5) I really haven't had time to look at the tint, but it seems good in the center with a yellowish halo. Craigs spectrophotometer graph made me happy- it's got a reasonable amount of spectrum coverage, boding well for real world usage.

4) if you like your photon freedom 2x, you will likely find this light useful.

 

[InfidelCastro]

So where's this ***NiMH Runtime chart added*** mentioned in the thread title? I've been through every page and can't seem to find it. I see the alkaline and lithium ones.

 

[PhotonLight]

If other Proton lights have as lightly soldered tab as the first one I tried then there are going to be a lot of returns.

TrueBlue, please give LRI a call at 541-925-3741 and speak to Leo before experimenting with disassembling your light. The best thing would be to just let LRI replace the light for you, but I understand you're excited and want to get your new light working immediately. If you're set on attempting the fix yourself, please talk to Leo first and he can walk you through the disassembly & repair process so that you don't end up damaging your light in the process.

We did see this happen with one of the lights in the initial sample-run and this is specifically one of the issues that LRI has been going through the lights and individually checking for, so hopefully this is the only one that slipped through. Normally, there should be a mechanical connection to take the pressure off the actual solder joint. In any case, please give Leo a call. Hopefully this is an isolated incident.

 

[x-ray]

So where's this ***NiMH Runtime chart added*** mentioned in the thread title? I've been through every page and can't seem to find it. I see the alkaline and lithium ones.

It's Here

 

[Mr. Blue]

UPS MISROUTED MINE!!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH

 

[powernoodle]

That NiMH graph does show some good regulation - whether its the Proton or the batteries that are doing it. Powernoodle likes!

cheers

 

[javafool]

My Proton arrived in Clearwater today. It is not a cheap flashlight, but none of their lights are what I would call low priced. I really like the features, the single AA power, and the option of all the brightness levels plus lower light for a long runtime. It has a lot of pluses that no other flashlights currently in the marketplace have. I'll be keeping mine.

 

[jar3ds]

my proton has a slight hum to it... its cool... it only hums on white... and its REALLY faint...

it changes pitch as you dim the white LED's... cool

 

[TrueBlue]

TrueBlue, please give LRI a call at 541-925-3741 and speak to Leo before experimenting with disassembling your light. The best thing would be to just let LRI replace the light for you, but I understand you're excited and want to get your new light working immediately. If you're set on attempting the fix yourself, please talk to Leo first and he can walk you through the disassembly & repair process so that you don't end up damaging your light in the process.

We did see this happen with one of the lights in the initial sample-run and this is specifically one of the issues that LRI has been going through the lights and individually checking for, so hopefully this is the only one that slipped through. Normally, there should be a mechanical connection to take the pressure off the actual solder joint. In any case, please give Leo a call. Hopefully this is an isolated incident.

I chickened out and left the light alone. I just contacted Leo, nice guy. You should be getting a Proton returned for repair in two days.

 

[nemul]

got mine!