SIGN UP:The Flashlight Reinvented(CAD)

[Endeavour]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

The corrosion problem is with the battery, not the aluminum.

Water is a corrosive substance. Oxygen in the air is corrosive. Salt Water is corrosive.

The problem is that you have the battery exposed to the elements, and it will rust if given the opportunity, just from sitting in the air.

Leaving it open as you have now allows water to get in between the negative contact/button of the case, and the battery ground. When this happens, current will pass through the water and complete the circuit, and will cause the battery to oxidize very quickly.

Aluminum oxidizes the instant it's exposed to air - it usually doesn't oxidize much further, since the thin layer of rust it forms protects the rest of the metal. Anodizing is an increase in the size of the oxide layer, which forms pores and it often dyed. You can make aluminum corrode into powder by covering it in mercury. (I don't recommend you try it)

Back to the main focus, however, the problem is that you're allowing water into the inner workings of the light. You must have a sealed battery compartment such that no water can enter, period, or you'll have a whole mess of problems, unfortunately.

 

[mobile1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

Thanks for clarifing. Well from a design point of view having an exposed battery looks very nice. Now if I use a flat back, and an other ORing in the back to seal off the negative part, that would work. In that case only the plastic wraping which can't corrode would be exposed. This would require however a regular switch - into the area where the driver is.
Having a switch close to the driver area, would allow for brightness regulation (driver suports it). This however would lengthen the light about half an inch.

 

[Endeavour]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

Working on my own light, I understand what a pain it can be sometimes with suggestions, comments, criticism, etc. Whatever I say I mean constructively, and if it deviates from your own vision of the work, by all means follow your own ideas.

First and foremost, I recommend sealing the electronics and battery compartments completely. I'm sure this isn't a dive light, but it's not worth risking failure of those areas under any situation.

Aside from the NX-01 not being an available optic, any optic doesn't provide a seal onto the LED itself, which would allow small particles to get trapped under the optic (I'm thinking water). I don't know exactly how you've designed the light, but it may not be too good for water to be touching the LED itself - I'll let someone else discuss that though, since I've not had any experience with running LEDs immersed in water.

Looking at the cross sections, it seems like you've got the light sealed at the optic. Assuming it works as expected and water doesn't creep in, it should be fine.

Eight screws is a bad idea. Having to remove any screws at all really turns me off, since I know I won't be getting great runtimes out of a single battery.

My suggestion would be to make sure the LED, optic, driver, etc. are all well sealed in your current setup, and to change the battery pack area to a standard tube setup, if you will, and have it screw on and off. I would also recommend the use of two standard CR123 Lithium batteries (or two rechargeables, if the driver can handle it), and extend the case by that amount.

It may not be quite as elegant as before, but the question then would be whether you want the light as a tool, or if you want the light as a collectors item. I, personally, like to get as much functionality as I can out of my lights, but others think differently than I.

Also, in my experience with the Luxeon V, if you drive it off a single battery, even, say, an XW0T for example, it will not be as bright as possible, and look rather green on the 'white wall test'. When driven at 6 volts, though, it's quite a bit more impressive.

I do think that if you made a fully sealed pack that you twist on and off, and requires no screws to remove, you'd have a lot more takers.

Just my two cents - like someone mentioned in the CR2 thread, if you let a committee design your light, you'll end up with an elephant, and a pink one at that. Aside from fixing the 'real' technical flaws, do whatever you feel is best. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[mobile1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

Well you know I really appreciate everyones feedback. There is so much knowledge out there, much more then I could ever learn myself. Besides I would be upset if I had produced the light. Right now it's only a CAD design which is simple to change. To avoid a pink elephant or just an other simple cylindar type light, these are the characteristics what I want this light to be:

<ul type="square">[*]1) water sealed

[*]2) gattling/fuel rod look for looks and heatsinking

[*]3) exposed battery and optics and leaving out a rod - just because it has never been done and it adds character.

[*]4) Lux 5W (or 2x3W - wouldn't work with exposed optics) driven at specs. However with variable brightness
[/list]
Now these are the issues that need to be fixed:

[*] 1) Corosion: when submersed in water
Solution: An ORing and a flat back will fix that. Integration of a small IPV67 switch (have a couple of samples coming)

[*] 2) Runtime: George just completed a runtime test with a protected R123, a fatman driving a LuxV at 700mA. The battery shut down after 7min continues on (drawing 1.7Amps at 3.2V) before shutting down. He said in order to allow a constant current at max brighntess, a 2.2A discharge without the battery protection kicking in would be required.
Solution: Either someone finds an R123 with a protection>2.2A. Or my prefered choice to use the drivers brightness regulation. So that brightness level can be adjusted. This still leaves the 7min max brightness continues on. However then the light can then be switched to a lower level to "recover".

[*] 3) Screws Well these are the options: 1) Keep the screws or give up the Gattling fuel rod look by using a twist mechanism.

At the beginning I stated what I want this light to be. So back to the drawing board, to redesign the light fix these issues while staying true to what I want this to be like.

This will probably mean that the screws will stay (reduction from 7 to 4). However I'll add the other advantage which this screw design brings, the extendible battery case. Think of it like a radio antenna. Extend the case without adding anything. Also powering this light with 2x123 should give you continues max 5W power for a long run time.

The challenge is to make all these changes and stay within milling specs!! Oh and maybe I'll find a way to do it without the screws....

 

[BugOutGear_USA]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

1. Maybe you should wait until the new Lumileds 5W are released. Aren't they supposed to be more efficient?

2. How many people are actually going to take this light into the ocean/diving? I freak out if a little sweat gets on my Lionheart or BB, so I would never think of taking something this nice anywhere near water.

Flavio

 

[mobile1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

BugOut - thats a valid point. The light would still be water, dust etc sealed, except for the corrosion. Maybe even offer the otion to order the light with a 3W @ 1000mA. (this would also cut the price by $25 to 30). Those who want braging rights for several 7min continues on could still go for a 5W.

I'll see what a regulated brightness level version with switch would look like. Then have people vote.

What I really like about this design is that it is clean and simple. Besides this light would look like a piece of art - imagine holding such a light - maybe even a gold plated version - wouldn't this be pretty much out of this world ....

 

[Lars]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

I think you should stick to your(gatling) "guns"(pun intended) and keep the light as close to your original concept as you can(and engineering allows).Your initial post was,after all,"the flashlight reinvented". I look forward to watching this evolve and certainly would consider buying one if it pans out.

 

[Ny0ng1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

just a point that I thought may be valid. This light's rubber o-rings would have considerably more exposure to heat-cold-air, etc since its not wedged between battery case and tailcap/head. Thus they may be faster to become stiff and subsequently have to be replaced. If this is true, you may consider giving spare o-rings and/or find a high quality rings /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[inluxication]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

I like the "fuel rod" look. Actually, I love it. I'm even willing to live with the screws -- as many of 'em as you like.

I'm not that worried about water; it might rarely get rained on, it'll never get immersed.

A 3W LED would suit me fine, instead of 5W.

That tail switch could be trouble if it's aluminum. My understanding is that aluminum has elasticity 0: no matter how little you wiggle it, wiggling it causes metal fatigue (unlike in steel, where little wiggles are sustainable). Screw-through-hole or some such variant might work.

I'd want the brightness to be adjustable, with at least 2 levels, preferably 3 or more: to extend battery life; because sometimes less light is preferable; and because it's just plain cooler.

I admire expensive lights frequently, but buy them rarely. So, I probably wouldn't buy this one either, but I might. It is rather special.

 

[GADGETOMETRY]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

How about a glass tube for the battery compartment...or something clear.

Use all the screws but make some of the holes on the back plate large enough so that the scews fit inside the holes but do not hold the back plate in ( false screws to keep the look ) maybe even thicker heads on the false screws so they still look functional.

I've seen aluminum reflectors ( maybe even with chrome plating )...maybe one can be made with a rubber gasket to waterproof the led.

If cooling is a problem - how about fins instead of rods

I like the original design....I have a lot of practical lights.......maybe it's time for a companion for the Swiss time piece on the desk.

Would like the single battery concept better.

 

[mobile1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

Well sealing the battery compartment requires a new switch design. If we leave the same switch, using a glass tube, or acrylic wouldn't solve the corrosion issue. However I like the clear/glass idea... I'll see what I can do with it.

I like the false screws. I could also just use shorter screws for half of them. Like this everyone can deside for themselves how many screws they want to use.

Regarding fins, they would have to be interlocking as well, because otherwise it can't be milled out (mills are actually fairly limited). Also fins don't allow me to drill holes in them to hold the package together.
Also an alluminum reflector would need 2 ORings and a front glass. One Oring to seal the glass, another one for the back to seal off the LED. I think using optics is much simpler, easier, and probably looks better too. Imagine if the light is turned on. The illuminated optics is probably glowing.

Then two brightness levels would be hard to integrate, without changing the switch design. I might offer two versions, the 2nd version would have the fatman regulations with 8 or more brightness levels, as well as a regular switch. Disadvantage is that one would be considerably longer.

So I will design this version with the variable brightness levels - the design won't be as straight and clean, and it will be longer.

I will see to get a prototype done of this version without regulation (using a Lux3). Meanwhile design a version with a regular switch and brightness regulation. For some reason I like the clean design of this light. I am currently looking for a way to reduce costs (for example using 3d printing to produce a mold mor affordably...)

 

[Stillphotog]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

In all honesty, I would never take a flashlight this cool/nice looking anywhere that it would be in danger of being submerged. If I get one of these things after production starts, and it goes in the drink and is safely retrieved, I promise to post pics of all damage incurred for all to laugh at! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hahaha.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[mobile1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

I got a couple of suggestions how to change the design to enable battery removal without requiring unscrew the 7 screws. Andrew suggested to add an extra thread in the back, then screw in the current switch. I should receive another suggestion, I'll see what's best then change the design, then go and have a prototype made.

 

[PEU]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

Mobile, did you saw my suggestions?

link


Pablo

 

[mobile1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

I didn't see that post - LOL design moding, very nice!!! We should post the CAD files for that... so everyone can start modding them. By the way you seem to be using solidworks as well - however you have never redered the images. If you go to tools, then add ins and activate PhotoWorks, you can then use the wizzard which lets you render the images in a couple of seconds.

Anyway to your design. I like the idea, to preserve the same look while completely sealing everything. Too bad the battery is not an R123. Also I am not sure the thin rods can be milled out. Did you look into this? It would be interested to see whether the design would work for an R123 sized battery....

 

[PEU]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

Yes I know... I don't have the patience to do a nice render /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Using an analogy, Im more an engineer than an architect /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Regarding the design, all the rods are the same and they dont need to be milled, just turned to size and on both ends drilled and inside threadeded, or if you prefer not to have the external screws, then turned and on both ends a protruding threaded screw to attach to top & bottom.

if you want to go with R123 that shouldnt be a problem, adjust the widths, rods are the same but smaller and voila!

not drawn are the headless allen screws that connect the heatsink to the middle section, giving heat a path and closing the electric circuit.


I may try it in the lathe if time allows /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I just need to find the proper acrylic tube.


Pablo

 

[MR Bulk]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

"The Skellite" (skeleton light).

 

[JonSidneyB]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

I want one I want one I want one I want one.

 

[Ken_McE]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

I think your Gat-Light is great. There are a variety of spray on waterproofing materials. Why not just spray or paint the battery before it goes in?

 

[mobile1]

Re: Introducing: The Flashlight Reinvented (Design

Pablo... I looked some more at your design. I like how the separate rods simplify the design so it can be made on a lathe. However the problem I see is that the acrylic tube isn't sealed with O-Rings on each end.
You mentioned that you use headless allen screws to connect the middle section to the heatsink. Wouldnt this compromise water sealing?
Then andrew wyn emailed me a smimilar mechanism to remove the battery other then removing all the screws, by using an extra screw thread at the bottom.
Pablo - Can you explain how gadgetlovers switch works or is there a link in here?