Techjunkie
Enlightened
This module increases output voltage to whatever level necessary to provide 800mA of forward current. I don't think it would be safe to use it for charging batteries as it would surely overcharge them and keep on going until
SKU 26106 5xCree 15W driver schematics + 12V mod
- Thread starter HansV
- Start date
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This module increases output voltage to whatever level necessary to provide 800mA of forward current. I don't think it would be safe to use it for charging batteries as it would surely overcharge them and keep on going until
MikeAusC
Enlightened
Re: SKU 26106 for battery charging
Yes, I forget to mention I will be changing the Zener Diode D5 to provide voltage limiting at 16.8 volts.
It would also be useful for charging 2x18650's to 8.4 volts from a USB port 5 volt output, if D5 is changed to 7.9 volts - say 2 3.9 volt zeners.
Yes, I forget to mention I will be changing the Zener Diode D5 to provide voltage limiting at 16.8 volts.
It would also be useful for charging 2x18650's to 8.4 volts from a USB port 5 volt output, if D5 is changed to 7.9 volts - say 2 3.9 volt zeners.
I wonder if the driver being heat sinked can be used to drive 7-up XPG ?
Blue shark was also rated for 5 Cree (XRE) & I used it to drive 7 XPG w/o problem due to XPG has lower Vf. Here is a link to that light:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/251539
What is the max boosted volt on this thing?
Did I read it right that Q1 says 30V? That should be enough for 7 XPG.
I think the blue shark max volt was around 25V.
It was pulling at jut over 3 amp on 3 li-ion/12v with the blue shark.
I'd like to driver 7 XPG on two Li-ion 8V, if works, it would pull at least
4 amp, may be 4.5 Amp from two C Li-ion.
Can the board handle 4-4.5 Amp input with good heat sinking?
thanks
Blue shark was also rated for 5 Cree (XRE) & I used it to drive 7 XPG w/o problem due to XPG has lower Vf. Here is a link to that light:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/251539
What is the max boosted volt on this thing?
Did I read it right that Q1 says 30V? That should be enough for 7 XPG.
I think the blue shark max volt was around 25V.
It was pulling at jut over 3 amp on 3 li-ion/12v with the blue shark.
I'd like to driver 7 XPG on two Li-ion 8V, if works, it would pull at least
4 amp, may be 4.5 Amp from two C Li-ion.
Can the board handle 4-4.5 Amp input with good heat sinking?
thanks
Hi ma_sha1,
You can use this driver to drive 6 XP-G's. I have pushed the limits for this driver. Max open voltage is ~21V but ~1000ma regulated maximum voltage is ~19V.
When pushing 6*XP-G with 1A, it will pull ~3.5A @7V from two Li-Ion batteries. With good heat-sinking it will handle this.
You can use this driver to drive 6 XP-G's. I have pushed the limits for this driver. Max open voltage is ~21V but ~1000ma regulated maximum voltage is ~19V.
When pushing 6*XP-G with 1A, it will pull ~3.5A @7V from two Li-Ion batteries. With good heat-sinking it will handle this.
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This is what I love about CPF, there's me looking for how low an input voltage this driver can take, and then there's you looking for how high we can take it!!
I've no idea about the answer to your question, maybe one of the other guys will chip in, but if it does work I might have to make another maglite
To have one of the led not lit in a 7-up would bother me, that's not an option.
How about this idea:
I could drive 6 led with one driver, then wire the 7th led with an independent driver that goes to the battery directly.
So when On, all 7 led would be on, when change modes, 6 led will change modes while the 7th led would remain constant on. So the low modes won't be that low, I can live with that, at least no led goes to waste, do you guys think it'll work?
If it would work, I'll make another 7-up on Mag 2C, probably using XPE R3 this time to get a bit more throw.
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I think i read somewhere that the driver is the same that sit in this http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.35242
If this info help..
I did a test on the 5* R2 Module from DX on full with with freshly charged 3, 4 and 5AccuEvolution D Cell 10000 NiMH
Measured at tailcap
3 in series 4,35 Volt, draw 2,2A = 9,5W
4 in series 5,70 Volt, draw 4,0A = 22W (was up to 4,2A and decreased)
5 in series 7,22 Volt, draw 2,5A = 18W
Tested before with 1 Li-ion cell but i didn't measure Amp, works fine and approx light output visible is about 80% of full output.
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showlyshah
Banned
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2009
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nice job dude? Can anybody give some of these schematics
1. Single mode boost driver for driving xp-g from 1.2v ni-cad/ni-mh
2. Single mode driver which can give 2.8 amps for sscp7 c bin from 3.7v-4.2v 2000ma imr.
3.single mode driver for xr-e from 2.4v (2*ni-cad).
Good if it use mosfets and other components and not using any ic's.
Thankz in advance
1. Single mode boost driver for driving xp-g from 1.2v ni-cad/ni-mh
2. Single mode driver which can give 2.8 amps for sscp7 c bin from 3.7v-4.2v 2000ma imr.
3.single mode driver for xr-e from 2.4v (2*ni-cad).
Good if it use mosfets and other components and not using any ic's.
Thankz in advance
So you got one where the component text was not removed? Great!
I was only quessing on what I found that would fit physically and functionally. But other circuits can also be used, it is not nessesary the same on all boards.
I was only quessing on what I found that would fit physically and functionally. But other circuits can also be used, it is not nessesary the same on all boards.
My Feeling was right. Switching Regulator is Feeling-tech FP5138
edit: seems the 'single-mode-mod' was already mentioned here so that is solved.
I also used a multimeter to measure some resistances. Is the 150Ohm the one that I should upgrade to 1kOhm?[/QUOTE]
Yes, It's the 150ohm resistor! 1kohm works great.
Hans.
I also used a multimeter to measure some resistances. Is the 150Ohm the one that I should upgrade to 1kOhm?[/QUOTE]
Yes, It's the 150ohm resistor! 1kohm works great.
Hans.
Here is a photo where the 150ohm resistor R4 is marked, that should be changed to 1kohm.
I have also marked the 22uF capacitor that should be replaced and the modification to remove the modes.
The red line shows where to put the black wire. Just move it from A to B and solder it to the sense resistor.
I have also marked the 22uF capacitor that should be replaced and the modification to remove the modes.
The red line shows where to put the black wire. Just move it from A to B and solder it to the sense resistor.
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Fichtenelch
Enlightened
So which modifications would you recommend to drive a bridgelux led with this driver?
Changing the charge capacitor C1 to 10nF. Change R4 from 150 Ohms to 1k for input Voltages over 8V. What else? I want to drive a bridgelux led with 2x26500 li-ions.
Changing the charge capacitor C1 to 10nF. Change R4 from 150 Ohms to 1k for input Voltages over 8V. What else? I want to drive a bridgelux led with 2x26500 li-ions.
What is the spesifications on this LED, voltage and current? What type?
What current do you want to drive it with?
With two 26500 cells you will have 6-7V input voltage. This is what this board is designed for. Remember that this driver board is only capable of delivering a output voltage that is higher or equal to the input voltage. It can drive 3-5 LED's connected is series.
With two 26500 cells you will not need to do any modifications on the board unless you are going to change the output current. You can do this by changing the value of the sense reisstor. But the 22uF cap can always be changed with a better 22 or 10uF if you have one laying around.
Good luck, and if you come back with some LED data I can give you a better answer.
What current do you want to drive it with?
With two 26500 cells you will have 6-7V input voltage. This is what this board is designed for. Remember that this driver board is only capable of delivering a output voltage that is higher or equal to the input voltage. It can drive 3-5 LED's connected is series.
With two 26500 cells you will not need to do any modifications on the board unless you are going to change the output current. You can do this by changing the value of the sense reisstor. But the 22uF cap can always be changed with a better 22 or 10uF if you have one laying around.
Good luck, and if you come back with some LED data I can give you a better answer.
Fichtenelch
Enlightened
I'm not completely sure, but i'm thinking about either the bridgelux bxra-c1202 (up to 13.9V at 2A) or the C2002 with up to 17.3V at 2.5A. however, 2A would be enough i think.
This thread is awesome, nice work guys and thanks Hans for starting it up I ordered a TrustFire TR-1200 from DX (sku 30683) running 5xQ5-WC leds. Sadly I got the "new" batch with the horrible driver. So the light is about as bright as my Fenix TK11 r2, and by far not as bright as my TrustFire TR-650. Would this driver be a good replacement, and would it be possible (good idea?) to replace the R4 to be able to handle the 3x18650 the flashlight is born with? Or should i settle with running it with 2x18650?
If someone would spend some time helping me mod this thing it would be greatly appreciated, I'm not super strong in electronics, but I guess with a little guidance it would be possible for me to end up satisfied with the TrustFire TR-1200.
Thanks in advance guys!
Kind Regards,
Flashie
Here's a few pictures of the head, might get a tad stuffed? i guess i have to screw the "black part" off to completely dissasemble the unit?
I ordered a TrustFire TR-1200 from DX (sku 30683) running 5xQ5-WC leds. Sadly I got the "new" batch with the horrible driver. So the light is about as bright as my Fenix TK11 r2, and by far not as bright as my TrustFire TR-650. Would this driver be a good replacement, and would it be possible (good idea?) to replace the R4 to be able to handle the 3x18650 the flashlight is born with? Or should i settle with running it with 2x18650?If someone would spend some time helping me mod this thing it would be greatly appreciated, I'm not super strong in electronics, but I guess with a little guidance it would be possible for me to end up satisfied with the TrustFire TR-1200.
Thanks in advance guys!
Kind Regards,
Flashie
Here's a few pictures of the head, might get a tad stuffed? i guess i have to screw the "black part" off to completely dissasemble the unit?
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The driver should work fine for three 18650 cells and 5 LED's. You will have about 10-12V input voltage. Just increace the drop resistor R4 in the zener regulator to 1Kohm.
You don't need to do any other modifications, but changing C1 for a better capacitor is good for the efficiancy and life expectancy. If you want more than 1A drive current, you can add a suteable resistor in parallel with the current sense resistor. The you can have some more light, more heat and shorter battery life.
You don't need to do any other modifications, but changing C1 for a better capacitor is good for the efficiancy and life expectancy. If you want more than 1A drive current, you can add a suteable resistor in parallel with the current sense resistor. The you can have some more light, more heat and shorter battery life.
Hi,
I changed the led- wire to the sens resistor to disable the modes, and replaced the 150ohm by 1K for the 12V mod (although not an smd resistor).
I also modified the inductor a little by unwinding the copper 1 turn to be able to move it out of the way for the little room I have available.
When I connect this driver to 2 18650's in series (I know, not 12V, but it is just for a test) and to a cree MC-E with the dies in series, the led only gets 400mA. Shoudn't this led get about 800mA?
Could it be that the driver is currently in the middle mode instead of high, and that it cannot switch to high because I moved the led- wire?
Or should I use an smd resistor?
thanks,
Johan
I changed the led- wire to the sens resistor to disable the modes, and replaced the 150ohm by 1K for the 12V mod (although not an smd resistor).
I also modified the inductor a little by unwinding the copper 1 turn to be able to move it out of the way for the little room I have available.
When I connect this driver to 2 18650's in series (I know, not 12V, but it is just for a test) and to a cree MC-E with the dies in series, the led only gets 400mA. Shoudn't this led get about 800mA?
Could it be that the driver is currently in the middle mode instead of high, and that it cannot switch to high because I moved the led- wire?
Or should I use an smd resistor?
thanks,
Johan
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You should get 800ma when everything work. If you bypassed the mode switch there is no middle mode, just on 100%. The modes is made by the MOSFET transistor switching the current on/off, but the current is constant when the transistor is on. If you moved the - wire on the LED to the sense resistor, the constant current is always on.
If you are not going to use the modes, just remove the 1K resistor. This powers the controller, but you will not be using this. It is not nessesary to increase the resisor value for two 18650 batteries, the driver is made for just that input voltage.
You need to check that the wires are connected correctly. Then measure the input voltage from the batteries and the output voltage to the LEDs. Also measure the current again.
You can also measure the voltage drop across the sense resitor. This should be 0.5V when the regulator is working. If this voltage is lower, there is something wrong. If the voltage is correct and you still get too low current, measure the sense resistor. Current should be 0.5V/resistor value, or 0.6ohm for 800mA.
Come back with your measurements if you do this and it still doesn't work and you still doesn't understand why even when you spend some time thinking about it.
If you are not going to use the modes, just remove the 1K resistor. This powers the controller, but you will not be using this. It is not nessesary to increase the resisor value for two 18650 batteries, the driver is made for just that input voltage.
You need to check that the wires are connected correctly. Then measure the input voltage from the batteries and the output voltage to the LEDs. Also measure the current again.
You can also measure the voltage drop across the sense resitor. This should be 0.5V when the regulator is working. If this voltage is lower, there is something wrong. If the voltage is correct and you still get too low current, measure the sense resistor. Current should be 0.5V/resistor value, or 0.6ohm for 800mA.
Come back with your measurements if you do this and it still doesn't work and you still doesn't understand why even when you spend some time thinking about it.
Thanks for helping Hans.
Something seems not right here.
I bought 2 of these drivers, so I can compare my modified driver with an un-modified driver.
These are the numbers:
voltage of the batteries(2*18650 in series): 7.91V
current going to the driver: 1.44A
current going to the LED: 0.40A
Voltage over the LED: 12.53V
voltage over the sens resistor: 0.25V
sens resistor: 1.4 ohm (didn't change this. measured while board was disconnected)
These last 2 values seem strange to me but is the same for both drivers.
For the unmodified driver I also checked the current to the led for the different modes.0.4A, 0.25A and 0.12A. (and there are of course the strobing modes), so both drivers seem to behave in the same way.
as for the 12V mod. I plan to use the driver on a 12V battery pack but it is easier to test with 2 18650's. I guess I can remove the resistor since I don't use modes with this driver.
I also tried to use 3 18650's in series (12.06V). This worked but with the same light output as the 0.4A.
could it be that I have a different batch with a different sens resistor? still the voltage drop is only half of what it is supposed to be so that would explain the 400mA instead of 800mA, no?
Something seems not right here.
I bought 2 of these drivers, so I can compare my modified driver with an un-modified driver.
These are the numbers:
voltage of the batteries(2*18650 in series): 7.91V
current going to the driver: 1.44A
current going to the LED: 0.40A
Voltage over the LED: 12.53V
voltage over the sens resistor: 0.25V
sens resistor: 1.4 ohm (didn't change this. measured while board was disconnected)
These last 2 values seem strange to me but is the same for both drivers.
For the unmodified driver I also checked the current to the led for the different modes.0.4A, 0.25A and 0.12A. (and there are of course the strobing modes), so both drivers seem to behave in the same way.
as for the 12V mod. I plan to use the driver on a 12V battery pack but it is easier to test with 2 18650's. I guess I can remove the resistor since I don't use modes with this driver.
I also tried to use 3 18650's in series (12.06V). This worked but with the same light output as the 0.4A.
could it be that I have a different batch with a different sens resistor? still the voltage drop is only half of what it is supposed to be so that would explain the 400mA instead of 800mA, no?
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