small 3xp7 driver?

NightOwl™

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Finally! After blood, tears and almost no hair left, it's done.
My 40*20x5mm board @ 3A
IMAG0509_zpsecb60070.jpg

it will now be enclosed in this aluminium shell :)
IMAG0432copy_zps30520193.jpg
 

Steve K

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congrats! It's always good to actually wrap up a project, especially one that has been in progress for so long!

Do you have a final schematic that you can share? I'm always curious about switching power supply design and techniques.
I'm also a bit curious about the method of manufacturing the circuit boards in the photos. Are they conventional etched boards, or are they made using a router or CNC method? The appearance reminds me a bit of stripline circuits used in RF designs.
 

NightOwl™

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Thanks!
Well do think 3 years i long? ;) I do :)
The design is pretty mutch the same as Microa's, he has a thread here somewere about his driver.
I routed my board in my DIY cnc machine, it's a bit too deep. Thats why it looks like dark lines.

Changchung - Sorry the driver is not for sale, atleast not on it's own. If you buy a MkII lamp than you will get the driver for free ;)
 
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Steve K

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It looks very nice! Looks like a nice selection of parts for a home build project as well.... no IC's with tiny lead spacing and thermal pads under the bottom of the IC and that sort of thing.

Any plans for conformal coat or potting? This one of those areas that can be harder to fix than it initially appears. If you are putting the board in a sealed housing, then some conformal coat might be all you need, and maybe not needed at all?
 

NightOwl™

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Thanks :)
If you look a few comments above you will find a small aluminium box. This is the housing for my driver, it will be 100% waterproof so no need for coating. I might use a piece of capton tape to minimize the risk of getting something short circuit
 

Steve K

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I've used conformal coat in production designs when using machined housings. It was too easy for a few metal chips to still be in the housing when it was all sealed up, only for vibration to move those chips onto the circuit and short something out.

Amazingly, I've seen an instance where the same phenomena happened in a large zener diode.... the diode die was shorted out when a small particle inside the diode's metal can bounced around and eventually hit the side of the die and shorted the zener out.
 

BillyNoMates

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Hi - Nice driver circuit.

I just wanted to chip in on the conformal coating mentioned by Steve K above. I needed to add this on my home-built driver circuit to fix problems caused by condensation. Even though my enclosure was sealed with O-rings I still found that I was getting moisture inside. This problem was predicted by a MechEng colleague: After the driver is used in damp conditions, as the circuit cools down, the reduced pressure sucks in damp air (even past o-rings) which then condenses on the circuit when it gets cold (ie when left out in the rain all day). In my case the condensation was causing a problem with the battery voltage sense (high-value resistors) tricking the unit into thinking the battery was low and refusing to switch on. I guess the condensation on the resistors was messing up the measurement.
Solution according to the MechEng is to include a waterproof breather vent (such as a Gore PreVent), but I chose to spray some coating on the circuit instead. It has been trouble-free since.
 

Steve K

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... Even though my enclosure was sealed with O-rings I still found that I was getting moisture inside. This problem was predicted by a MechEng colleague: After the driver is used in damp conditions, as the circuit cools down, the reduced pressure sucks in damp air (even past o-rings) which then condenses on the circuit when it gets cold (ie when left out in the rain all day). ....

that's a very good point, and I've seen the same thing at work. There's also the potential for actually sucking moisture up the wire strands in some instances. I had a device that failed in the field due to the power wire burning out. Enough moisture had been sucked up the wire strands to cause corrosion all along the wires, and the corrosion increased the resistance, producing heat that increased the rate of corrosion, etc... until eventually the wire got hot enough at the point where it was soldered into the circuit board that the wire broke or fused. The solution for a lot of these devices was to use sealed wire, which has sealant (something like RTV) mixed into the strands at regular intervals. The device had to be able to survive dunking under water, so I don't know if the waterproof breather vent gadget would have worked.

For my bike light projects, I always add some sort of coating just in case. The cost is small, it protects all the work I've done on the circuit, and it reduces the chance that I'll get stuck in the dark on some winter evening.
 

BillyNoMates

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The cost is small, it protects all the work I've done on the circuit, and it reduces the chance that I'll get stuck in the dark on some winter evening.
or the rather embarrassing need to beg for a lift home from work 'cos your light refuses to work after telling everyone how great it was!
 

NightOwl™

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Ill try a bottle of that protective coating thingie. The only concern i see is that the coating doesn't allow me to reprogram the chip since i use a flashing tool that needs to make contact on those small IC legs :)

However, I made some test in the weekend :)
It was no problem to get 3,5A, but all I wanted was 3A ;)

IMAG0565_zps19d005cb.jpg
 

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