Small Cree Xm-l torch modification

[m.pille.led]

Hi,
I`m thinking about geting a coupel of cheap backup torches for my night dives ( or even main torches... 1000lumen for night is decent )
I have been using one of those yellow Xm-l torches wich twist to switch (1x 18650). I love the torch apart from the switching (turning/twist...)

So I`d like to get a decent tailcap "clickie" switch torch, minimizing the risk of floding the torch when switching
I find all this tail cap switch torches, but all have this 3 or 5 modes.
And I want a simple ON/OFF switching, or a 100% and 50% mode

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1200lumens-...Torch-Light-/121661520227?hash=item1c53977963

http://www.dx.com/p/prairie-fire-t2...ashlight-bronze-1-x-18650-162540#.VcfApe9RHIU

So what about to change the driver? Will this work for me?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3000mAh-2-M...id=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&mehot=ag&sd=121301303007

http://www.ledsupermall.com/amc7135-8-2800mah-1-mode-circuit-board.html

I would like to run it on 3A. So is the 8*7135 (2800mah) a good option?


Has anyone opened one of these torches before? Will the modification work?
Thank you
Best Regards
Mark

 

[DIWdiver]

Mark,

Either of those drivers should work. It's only a matter of whether they can be fit into the light that you select.

The two lights that you linked to could well be the same light with different branding.

I've bought three different lights on the cheap, and had very different experiences with each. The first was a MagicShine MJ-852. I found this to be easily (to me) modified, but required cleaning of threads, burrs, etc, and replacement of all o-rings before it was dive-worthy. When attempting to buy more MJ-852's, I found that only the MJ-852B was available. This light I still use unmodified, with the original o-rings. It was going to be much more difficult to modify, and it's not bad as purchased, so I haven't changed it, though I have dissected it and examined it thoroughly.

The third was a couple of these (or pretty similar, it's hard to tell these days).
http://www.dx.com/p/singfire-sf-749...ght-1x26650-1x18650-3xaaa-238298#.VcgDKPlVhBc
I found them to be so poorly made that I could never get them to the point where I'd be comfortable diving with them (and I don't do any exotic diving). They will be land lights only, and not bad ones at that, though I have very little need for land lights.

One thing to know is that these lights all come with cheap neodymium magnets, which will corrode after being subjected to (salt) water, despite being nickel plated. After 1-3 years they will be useless and impossible to remove (go ahead, ask me how I know). Far better to replace them with samarium cobalt magnets at the outset. This will require that you find the right size magnets. A questionable prospect at best.

I don't mean to rain on your parade, and I hope you do select something, build, and share your results with us. I'm very interested and here to help if you need it.

D

 

[DIWdiver]

Oh, and the problem with clicky switches is that at depth, the pressure activates them and they become inoperable. The depth at which this becomes a problem is not typically very deep.

 

[m.pille.led]

Thank you very much DIWdiver!
I will have to try it out with the clicky switch. I rather buy those clicky because it eliminates the problems with cheap corosive magnets, wich by the way I also had problems with.

The torch you linked to DX ( http://www.dx.com/p/singfire-sf-749-...8#.VcgDKPlVhBc ) I also have bought recently...... can`t be used in nothing for diving. The O-rings simply are located too close to the thread. And the quality is simply very bad... (Have seen a lot better for the price! )
I might try to glue the front thread and clean the tail cap thread for use. (only opening the tail cap to charge battery)


By the way, what is the best way for you to clean the threads? some wet sandpaper? (the finest one for metal)?

And thanks again
If any other question apears I will ask here
Mark