Solarforce hosts --are they really quality? Yes

deadrx7conv

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

Mine did the same thing. Had to wrap the P60 in aluminum foil. Battery was snug but the drop-in had some side to side movement. Cure it with tin snips and your favorite can of beer or soda.
 

jcalvert

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

Curiously, what drop-in are you using?

Several months ago, after I had confirmed the longer body on several 2009/10 L2Ps as previously stated, I stretched the drop-in and switch springs, I always use an index card as a battery spacer for the L2P, but it was still a tad short like yours. I then realized what the issue was, the NB drop-in I had in there was shorter than some of my other NBs, so I switched those out and that alone made the difference. But then, I tried the newest Solarforce tailcap at the time, the L2-S9 and I was back with a loose connection. I could see right away that the switch spring was further recessed than the L2P, L2-S7 and L2-S8 tailcaps. So I swapped back to one of those and no longer have an issue with connection. So before you get a magnet, if you have any other appropriate P60 drop-ins, you could check first to see if you get the solid connection.

Note: When I use the L2-S9 with the 2009/10 L2P in particular, I just need to be sure the combo of the drop-in and bezel work for length with the battery I use.

Btw, other than this single issue with the 2009/10 L2P, I generally find Solarforce products, hosts, bezels & tailcaps in particular, quite good for quality. One of my favorite legos is the A001 bezel (+ bezel ring), the L2P body, a Triad tailcap w/ McClicky hosting either a NB XM-L or a triple XPG-R2.
 
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Zeruel

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

I have experienced no faults with my Solarforce hosts (including switches) for years. Machining and type III are pretty good and certainly best bang for buck.

However, I cannot say the same thing about their drop-ins.... :ohgeez:
 

duro

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

It appears it's the Nailbender drop-in spring that is crap. Even the solarforce drop-in spring is more substantial than nailbenders....
 

Chrisdm

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

Vinguyen54's dropins are Solarforce-specific, with much more substantial contact springs than your typical drop-in. The first one I bought from him, I bought unknowingly for a Surefire host. I couldnt even screw the bezel down with my 6P, but I put it in a Solarforce L2 and it fit perfectly...
 

duro

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

Yeah, now that I've been able to try with another drop-in, the nailbender's contact spring is crap. I suppose it's like that for surefires, but I never knew when ordering. What does it take to make a new contact spring, just a spring and some soldering skills eh?
 

lightseeker2009

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

Yeah, now that I've been able to try with another drop-in, the nailbender's contact spring is crap. I suppose it's like that for surefires, but I never knew when ordering. What does it take to make a new contact spring, just a spring and some soldering skills eh?

By the contact spring do you guys mean the bigger one that connects with the negative part op the flashlight? If yes, those springs are removable. Just use one from another unused drop-in.
 

cummins4x4

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Just got my SS L2 host. Seems to be very good build quality, tail stands even with lanyard attached, nice threads, substantial orings, nice polishing. Just grabbed a P60 from them, not as bright as I had hoped but I got this host as a tester for various P60's. So now I am shopping for just the right drop in for it, looking for bright, warm and a nice smooth beam, not a blinding spot with dim throw. Running on 1 18650 but have IMR 16340's available to. Any suggestions fellow enthusiasts? (flashaholic just sounds so, you know, geeky :whistle:)
 

duro

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

By the contact spring do you guys mean the bigger one that connects with the negative part op the flashlight? If yes, those springs are removable. Just use one from another unused drop-in.

No, the actual spring that is connected to the driver. It must be soldered on.
 

atbglenn

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

I have these Solarforce hosts. My opinion is that the quality far exceeds their low asking price. I've had no problems with any of them..

40b00205.jpg
 

blackron

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

Small neodymium magnets can be purchased at home depot in the area where they sell screws and hardware to hang pictures. I have used those to improve battery contact.
 

enomosiki

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

For the money, yes, Solarforce deliver excellent quality, great for beginners and intermediates. I built some lights using L2T and, sure enough, they do feel solid and the people that I handed them off to love them.

If even better quality is desired, just about the only option left is to find an incandescent P60 Surefire, have it bored out for 18650 and then swap the tailcap out with a McClicky.
 

B0wz3r

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Just got my SS L2 host. Seems to be very good build quality, tail stands even with lanyard attached, nice threads, substantial orings, nice polishing. Just grabbed a P60 from them, not as bright as I had hoped but I got this host as a tester for various P60's. So now I am shopping for just the right drop in for it, looking for bright, warm and a nice smooth beam, not a blinding spot with dim throw. Running on 1 18650 but have IMR 16340's available to. Any suggestions fellow enthusiasts? (flashaholic just sounds so, you know, geeky :whistle:)
I got myself a ThruNite 3-mode high CRI XPG D26 module from Lighthound for Christmas for my L2R and it's great; the tint is the warmest of any light I have and it's a beautiful color... looks a lot like a high output incan. I prefer the slightly cooler temp of the HCRI emitters in the new Quarks I have, but I don't have anything to complain about with the ThruNite module I got. Comparing it to some of my other lights with known outputs my estimate is that on max it puts out about 250 lumens. It has a nice throwy beam too, so I use it a lot for walking my wife's dog at night and the like. Dereelight makes a warm XML drop in with three modes I want to get, but don't have the funds right now.
 

Paul_in_Maryland

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Re: Solarforce hosts --are they really quality?

I own both two 2xAA hosts: a Solarforce L2R and a FiveMega 2xAA. They're both excellent. On the FiveMega, the tailcap uses a built-in forward clicky rated for 3 amps. On the Solarforce, you can easily replace the tailcap with a type-C tailcap of your choice.

That said, I did short out the switch on my Fivemega 3xAA by running three NiZn cells; I think it was a combination of too much voltage (5.2V) and too much current, caused by the cells' low resistance.
 

duro

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I got myself a ThruNite 3-mode high CRI XPG D26 module from Lighthound for Christmas for my L2R and it's great; the tint is the warmest of any light I have and it's a beautiful color... looks a lot like a high output incan. I prefer the slightly cooler temp of the HCRI emitters in the new Quarks I have, but I don't have anything to complain about with the ThruNite module I got. Comparing it to some of my other lights with known outputs my estimate is that on max it puts out about 250 lumens. It has a nice throwy beam too, so I use it a lot for walking my wife's dog at night and the like. Dereelight makes a warm XML drop in with three modes I want to get, but don't have the funds right now.

I figured out a new system that works for me. High CRI in the winter because of the snow that's on the ground all winter long, and then cool white, or neutral in the spring/summer. Seems to be working out pretty good on my eyes.
 

B0wz3r

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I figured out a new system that works for me. High CRI in the winter because of the snow that's on the ground all winter long, and then cool white, or neutral in the spring/summer. Seems to be working out pretty good on my eyes.
I've found that the HCRI emitters are definitely a plus in the snow. I'm a big neutral fan too, and I agree completely. Neutral is definitely preferable at times, but I like them both. I'm going to get one of the Solarforce lantern heads to use with the HCRI drop in I have now. When spring rolls around and my wife and I start taking our kids camping and doing other outdoor activities, I'll put the HCRI drop in into my L2X extended body so we'll have a nice light for camping and using in the tent.
 

iron potato

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Got two L2, Sand / 2x 18350 / single mode XP-G / lantern head & another Black / 18650 / A001 head flat bezel / SS belt clip / 3 modes XM-L T6, another L2r, 3 modes XP-G, so far no problem, just need to lubricate the threads.
 

texas cop

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Having a few, the Solarforce is one of the best clones out there. The lego options are long, 18mm batteries, and lots of dropins. I perfer the Solarforce over the Surefire P6.
 

Rees

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I'm looking to get a L2P or L2i and I was looking at the solarforce 3 mode xml drop-in and run 2x cr123's. Would that would well or is there a better option?
 
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B0wz3r

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I'm looking to get a L2P or L2i and I was looking at the solarforce 3 mode xml drop-in and run 2x cr123's. Would that would well or is there a better option?

The most important thing is to make sure you're matching the voltage range of any drop-ins you use with the cells you're going to be using in the light. All drop-ins should say what their voltage range is, so you should be able to match them up with a battery complement that will match them.

For example, my HCRI drop-in in my L2R has a 3 - 9 volt driver, so for a battery compartment that holds 2 AA size cells, it means I have to use 2x14500, which works just fine. Most P60 drop-ins will have a similar voltage range for their driver, and since most standard li-ion cells are 4.2 volts, I can use that drop in with either 1 or 2 14500 cells, or 1 or 2 18650 cells, and so on.

In terms of the actual drop-in itself, there are a lot of options available. I'd recommend a multimode module with a wide voltage range, with a neutral or HCRI emitter.
 
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