larryk
Enlightened
I would like 1 maybe 2.
Stanley HID 3000 pot mod 17-83W
- Thread starter 2filthy3
- Start date
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I just ran the torch with the mod on continuously, the battery lasted for 16 minutes, the ballast was fairly warm to the touch, but no signs of trouble.
$12 USD shipped worldwide, $17 USD for two.
I Hope to make them in the next few day's.
$12 USD shipped worldwide, $17 USD for two.
I Hope to make them in the next few day's.
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2filty3
What would be the effect running the light with mod from a 4s 14.8v nominal (16.8v topped off) Lipo pack. Too much power or ok? I run my light now occasionally by plugging the cig plug into my Lipo battery setup and it works fine...
What would be the effect running the light with mod from a 4s 14.8v nominal (16.8v topped off) Lipo pack. Too much power or ok? I run my light now occasionally by plugging the cig plug into my Lipo battery setup and it works fine...
bshanahan14rulz
Flashlight Enthusiast
Why hasn't someone just transplanted one of those adjustable ballast or a common 50W ballast?
Also, be careful about overdriving pressurized glass chambers. You might consider getting some DL-50s or the fatboy versions of those if you can find 'em, but you'll have to construct a spacer or adapter, they are p32/d.
Also, be careful about overdriving pressurized glass chambers. You might consider getting some DL-50s or the fatboy versions of those if you can find 'em, but you'll have to construct a spacer or adapter, they are p32/d.
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
have you opened a stanley? if so, then you'd know why, lol.... theres not alot of breathing space in that casing, and along with the ignitor, would be a tight fit, not to mention theres NO ventilation at all. i'm not say'n it can't be done, but would be a tight and risky mod. if i were to do it, i'd make sure to keep as much of the original hardware intact as i could so i could always return it to stock when the new ballast goes
and at 30 mins runtime on the stock 35w system, i can't see getting more than 15mins outa the SLA, so..... upgrade there as well
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*Just about to put some of these together, realized I can very easily incorporate a 30W LOW mode, any interest in this?
Though it will only work with standard internal SLA battery.
I could not recommend this, at 16.8 volts I would predict around 118W into the ballast, I have not tested this output for extended periods and could not say what the ballast life would be.
The above mentioned mod from Benson would be needed in this case, with it your output would follow my above graph, and then at a point of your choosing, say 75W it would go flat for constant power regulation, note that I am not doing this mod atm.
Though it will only work with standard internal SLA battery.
I could not recommend this, at 16.8 volts I would predict around 118W into the ballast, I have not tested this output for extended periods and could not say what the ballast life would be.
The above mentioned mod from Benson would be needed in this case, with it your output would follow my above graph, and then at a point of your choosing, say 75W it would go flat for constant power regulation, note that I am not doing this mod atm.
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My opinion a 30 w low would be great because the run-time on these lights is so low, especially at even higher outputs. I have 4 or 5 of these laying around and the batteries are all dead.
Mine all have the Hi-Low switch. Can't remember, this mod work on these or only single mod version.
How is this mod effected (if any) when you plug the cigarette plug in.
thanks!
Mine all have the Hi-Low switch. Can't remember, this mod work on these or only single mod version.
How is this mod effected (if any) when you plug the cigarette plug in.
thanks!
FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
i may be interested in acquiring most if not all of those!
i have a FIST FULL of good SLA's in the 3ah to the 9ah range. and (with your sales) a fist full of lipos as well!
(theres a big demand for hand held HIDs here in the "north woods". alot of people admire my stanley yet NONE are available at any store.When plugged into a car I would expect to see a maximum of 14.4V (minus the protection diode), or around 90W at the ballast, this will not cause immediate failure but it is pushing it fairly hard, The low mode will most likely not work in this case either.
I have decided to use a different switch, due to the low mode. It will probably be around a two week wait for the switches to turn up.
To recap.
I don not know if this mod will work on the HID0109, I would guess the high would, not sure about the low.
The low mode I have added run's VERY close to the ballast cut out when the battery is hot of the charger, that is for me 23 watts into the ballast, on a fresh charge I get within 1W of this, if anyone was to have a problem with the low mode (when the battery is fully charged) I would expect that a few minutes running normally would fix it. My battery gave 45 minutes of run time using the low mode.
When the torch cuts on low voltage power consumption it around 28W.
The high mode will give you 65W at the ballast (up from 40) for at least 4 minutes, my sad battery gave 5 minutes at 65W, to 60 watts took 8 minutes, then a dive to 50W in 3 minutes and cut out, in total my battery gave 16 minutes of continuous high operation.
The high mode will work when using the 12v car input, though with up to 90W consumed by the ballast I could not recommend continuous operation in High, low will most likely not work.
To recap.
I don not know if this mod will work on the HID0109, I would guess the high would, not sure about the low.
The low mode I have added run's VERY close to the ballast cut out when the battery is hot of the charger, that is for me 23 watts into the ballast, on a fresh charge I get within 1W of this, if anyone was to have a problem with the low mode (when the battery is fully charged) I would expect that a few minutes running normally would fix it. My battery gave 45 minutes of run time using the low mode.
When the torch cuts on low voltage power consumption it around 28W.
The high mode will give you 65W at the ballast (up from 40) for at least 4 minutes, my sad battery gave 5 minutes at 65W, to 60 watts took 8 minutes, then a dive to 50W in 3 minutes and cut out, in total my battery gave 16 minutes of continuous high operation.
The high mode will work when using the 12v car input, though with up to 90W consumed by the ballast I could not recommend continuous operation in High, low will most likely not work.
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Waiting anxiously!
I guess this has died out.
SAVAGE420
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
- Messages
- 10
Im digging up an oldie...Any word on this, or is it dead as said?
More than a year and a half back to his last post so pretty sure it's dead.
Hello, Sorry, I failed to deliver on this one, life gets in the way of life as it does.
I saw the new stanley battery thread a few days ago, and finally made some of these devices, I only made 4, I am unsure if there is still much interest.
Output power is 17-20W low. 28-29W normal, 50W on a fully charged off the charger stock sla battery, quickly falling to 45/40W, high mode is hard on the battery.
Bad news, I killed my stanley/ballast, good news I had been taking measurements for around and hour, including continuous running at 60 Watts, AT THE BULB, moderate running at 70 Watts, intermittant running at 80 Watts and peaking to 90 Watts, all at the bulb.
90W output from the ballast required 145W input power, a terrible 62% efficiency, and a silly thing to do. ballast temps of 95C/203F were recorded from the ballast case, and not necessarily from the hottest spot, 70-72% was more common at lower power levels.
~
Anyway I took some more power measurements of the spot light, though this time I was able to measure the power being consumed by the bulb, which is not as straightforward as it seems.
As this ballast outputs an AC waveform any inductance in the system. Which is where the changing AC voltage causes magnetic fields to be created/collapse, which then attempts to induce a voltage within the same wires/cable/components that created them, this self induced voltage will try to oppose to the original, thus resisting a change in current flow.
This is not a problem for the operation of the light, the problem is in taking power measurements, as the funny thing with inductors is that the voltage and current waveforms flowing through them are not in phase with each other. i.e. the moments of peak amplitude and zero/crossover are different. The problem with this is that means that the simple sum for power of 'Watts = current X voltage' is not correct, so you cannot use a current meter and volt meter to measure the power in an AC circuit, because you are measuring things that are happing at different times.
Research "power factor" to learn more about this phenomenon. Or read this http://media.wix.com/ugd/c017e0_553f5260d6001d8e1290c808f4d4c46f.pdf
Luckily I have a power/clamp meter that can calculate the phase angle between the current and voltage, giving a true indication of power.
As pictures are always more fun, here is what I found.
Note that the lower readings are for the ballast output, and the upper ballast input.
The voltage displayed on the upper watt meter gives an indication of full ballast power for the given ballast input voltage.
On the clamp meter (bottom), the upper reading W-rms is the actual watts being output from the ballast, The lower reading VA, Volt*Amps is the apparent power, or what you would get by simply measuring the voltage and current and multiplying them, like you would do in a DC circuit.
17 Watts, the low mode for my switch.
28W, normal regulated output.
Note VA is 35 watts, which is watt the volts times amps would equal, but it is only the apparent power, not real.
60W, what I might try to achieve full time with a lipo battery pack.
70W, this was causing funny behaviour from my cheap 4300K bulb, moving artifacts, appearing to spin within the bulb.
80W, ran this for around 30 seconds, funny behavior from bulb, was projecting a rotating artefact onto the wall.
90W, unsure of run time, 10 seconds maybe.
Running alligator clips to another bulb increased inductance, causing a bigger gap between the real power (Watts) and apparent (VA) power
After experimenting for an hour, really should have stopped, 94.4 deg C.
The power switch.
If anyone from the start of the thread is interested let me know.
I saw the new stanley battery thread a few days ago, and finally made some of these devices, I only made 4, I am unsure if there is still much interest.
Output power is 17-20W low. 28-29W normal, 50W on a fully charged off the charger stock sla battery, quickly falling to 45/40W, high mode is hard on the battery.
Bad news, I killed my stanley/ballast, good news I had been taking measurements for around and hour, including continuous running at 60 Watts, AT THE BULB, moderate running at 70 Watts, intermittant running at 80 Watts and peaking to 90 Watts, all at the bulb.
90W output from the ballast required 145W input power, a terrible 62% efficiency, and a silly thing to do. ballast temps of 95C/203F were recorded from the ballast case, and not necessarily from the hottest spot, 70-72% was more common at lower power levels.
~
Anyway I took some more power measurements of the spot light, though this time I was able to measure the power being consumed by the bulb, which is not as straightforward as it seems.
As this ballast outputs an AC waveform any inductance in the system. Which is where the changing AC voltage causes magnetic fields to be created/collapse, which then attempts to induce a voltage within the same wires/cable/components that created them, this self induced voltage will try to oppose to the original, thus resisting a change in current flow.
This is not a problem for the operation of the light, the problem is in taking power measurements, as the funny thing with inductors is that the voltage and current waveforms flowing through them are not in phase with each other. i.e. the moments of peak amplitude and zero/crossover are different. The problem with this is that means that the simple sum for power of 'Watts = current X voltage' is not correct, so you cannot use a current meter and volt meter to measure the power in an AC circuit, because you are measuring things that are happing at different times.
Research "power factor" to learn more about this phenomenon. Or read this http://media.wix.com/ugd/c017e0_553f5260d6001d8e1290c808f4d4c46f.pdf
Luckily I have a power/clamp meter that can calculate the phase angle between the current and voltage, giving a true indication of power.
As pictures are always more fun, here is what I found.
Note that the lower readings are for the ballast output, and the upper ballast input.
The voltage displayed on the upper watt meter gives an indication of full ballast power for the given ballast input voltage.
On the clamp meter (bottom), the upper reading W-rms is the actual watts being output from the ballast, The lower reading VA, Volt*Amps is the apparent power, or what you would get by simply measuring the voltage and current and multiplying them, like you would do in a DC circuit.
17 Watts, the low mode for my switch.
28W, normal regulated output.
Note VA is 35 watts, which is watt the volts times amps would equal, but it is only the apparent power, not real.
60W, what I might try to achieve full time with a lipo battery pack.
70W, this was causing funny behaviour from my cheap 4300K bulb, moving artifacts, appearing to spin within the bulb.
80W, ran this for around 30 seconds, funny behavior from bulb, was projecting a rotating artefact onto the wall.
90W, unsure of run time, 10 seconds maybe.
Running alligator clips to another bulb increased inductance, causing a bigger gap between the real power (Watts) and apparent (VA) power
After experimenting for an hour, really should have stopped, 94.4 deg C.
The power switch.
If anyone from the start of the thread is interested let me know.
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FRITZHID
Flashlight Enthusiast
Have you experimented with a variable version yet? I was thinking of a 17 to 75 watt pot version.
A variable ouput version is not worthwhile with the standard vrla battery, a variable reg would give a range of 20-50 watts, this gives roughly 20-28-45/50w, if running on a lipo pack or continous supply it would be a good idea.
Forgot to mention that the max output battery figure I have is from a smaller 2ah battery so, so might not line up exactly with the standard unit.
Forgot to mention that the max output battery figure I have is from a smaller 2ah battery so, so might not line up exactly with the standard unit.
Re: Stanley HID HID0109 pot mod 17-83W.... other options for this Handheld?
Hi - First time post - HID0109 mod.... I'm actually wanting to get more RUN TIME out of my Light - and I am more than willing to give up output as this light is seriously too bright for anything close up - like tracking downed game (deer, bear, elk) - is it possible!? A lot of you guys seem to have way more knowledge about Lighting/Power/circuitry than I do - sooo... is it possible - or is the HID bulb the restricting factor and has to be run this bright to work properly? Is another option to change the bulb to something like a high output (5W !?!) LED? or is that way to small to get say 50% output of the current/factory configuration?
Again - the standard HID0109 is WAY to bright fro my application - and subsequently has way too short of run time - what is a happy-medium for GOOD brightness with BETTER run time!?
I figure because this handheld is fairly heavy - it must have a GOOD battery... maybe the HID part of the design is the problem - is there a good way to streamline all the board/wiring to fire a high-output LED that will be GOOD bright (not BLINDING)... but have really good run-time!?!
I will continue to poke around to see if I cant find an articles that might give me this info - but Please advise - and Thank you for your time and effort!!
Eric B / G6wings
Hi - First time post - HID0109 mod.... I'm actually wanting to get more RUN TIME out of my Light - and I am more than willing to give up output as this light is seriously too bright for anything close up - like tracking downed game (deer, bear, elk) - is it possible!? A lot of you guys seem to have way more knowledge about Lighting/Power/circuitry than I do - sooo... is it possible - or is the HID bulb the restricting factor and has to be run this bright to work properly? Is another option to change the bulb to something like a high output (5W !?!) LED? or is that way to small to get say 50% output of the current/factory configuration?
Again - the standard HID0109 is WAY to bright fro my application - and subsequently has way too short of run time - what is a happy-medium for GOOD brightness with BETTER run time!?
I figure because this handheld is fairly heavy - it must have a GOOD battery... maybe the HID part of the design is the problem - is there a good way to streamline all the board/wiring to fire a high-output LED that will be GOOD bright (not BLINDING)... but have really good run-time!?!
I will continue to poke around to see if I cant find an articles that might give me this info - but Please advise - and Thank you for your time and effort!!
Eric B / G6wings
have you opened a stanley? if so, then you'd know why, lol.... theres not alot of breathing space in that casing, and along with the ignitor, would be a tight fit, not to mention theres NO ventilation at all. i'm not say'n it can't be done, but would be a tight and risky mod. if i were to do it, i'd make sure to keep as much of the original hardware intact as i could so i could always return it to stock when the new ballast goes
and at 30 mins runtime on the stock 35w system, i can't see getting more than 15mins outa the SLA, so..... upgrade there as well
Re: Stanley HID HID0109 pot mod 17-83W.... other options for this Handheld?
The ballast determines power output to the lamp so using a smaller wattage "rated" lamp will just over-drive the lamp and shorten its' life. The batteries are just a small, 3AH lead acid type. I had a couple of the HID's when they first fame out. If the HID is too bright, you might want to look at the Stanley Fat Max. It's the same pistol-grip style but much smaller and much lighter and while not as bright as the HID, it is very bright - But....it is two-level so you can dim it down and have a longer run time. You get the best of both worlds. I don't remember exactly but I'd guess the Fat Max will run on High for at least 45 minutes, if not more than an hour and on low (which is still plenty bright), probably 1.5 or more hours. It throws well, too. It's an LED light. Highly recommended.
The ballast determines power output to the lamp so using a smaller wattage "rated" lamp will just over-drive the lamp and shorten its' life. The batteries are just a small, 3AH lead acid type. I had a couple of the HID's when they first fame out. If the HID is too bright, you might want to look at the Stanley Fat Max. It's the same pistol-grip style but much smaller and much lighter and while not as bright as the HID, it is very bright - But....it is two-level so you can dim it down and have a longer run time. You get the best of both worlds. I don't remember exactly but I'd guess the Fat Max will run on High for at least 45 minutes, if not more than an hour and on low (which is still plenty bright), probably 1.5 or more hours. It throws well, too. It's an LED light. Highly recommended.
