The SureFire 6PX/G2X Tactical and 6PX/G2X Pro Thread

[Toohotruk]

I've had all three. The 200 lm. was fine, I used one at work for over year...like Grijon said, it was throwy and it seems like it was a blueish tint, but I can't remember because I lost the light a few years ago. I've used a 320 G2X Pro for a couple of years at work and I like it much better than the 200 lm...great combo of throw and spill, excellent tint and bright enough to light up anything within 50-75 yrds (just guessing). It's the best light I've ever carried at work. When I thought I had lost the G2X, I bought a 600 lm. model 6PX Pro to replace it. I didn't use it much before I found where I dropped the G2X, but I didn't like it as well...sometimes the brightest light isn't the best one for the job. It was way to bright for my use, I'd get a lot of back flash, for lack of a better word, meaning I would use it in a close quarters situations and it reflected off of objects back in my eyes and blinded me. I then used it as my bigger, "outdoor" light on weekends on my gf's farm a couple of times, but it didn't throw like my Fury, plus the head gets really hot fairly quick...way hotter than the Fury, which makes sense considering how much more surface area the Fury head has over the 6PX. I'd just got it sitting in the truck in case I need it, but I doubt I would buy it if I had to do it over again. The 320 is the way to go IMO, but I'm sure others may disagree.

 

[Buck91]

Had a G2X Tactical 320lm version, it was fairly angry blue but it was a great, "working" light. Eventually it flaked out and wouldnt turn on without a smack on the palm. A trip back to Surefire and about 2wks turn around time and the same light came back with a brand new head on it. Can't be 100% of what the ratings are now but its SIGNIFICANTLY brighter and gets fairly warm in use. Which is fine though maybe not ideal (clearly this will result in less batter life). It appears to have an XPL HD LED with a fairly cool but not angry blue at all tint.

Also interesting, the original head had a plain PCB positive battery contact while the new one has a small b+ spring (similar to a qlite).

 

[desert.snake]

A couple of days ago I received a 6px pro from the local aftermarket, marked D, bored out for 18650, no head spring, number a164246. I don't know why I passed by this model for 4 years, it's almost a perfect lamp for me, only a non-scratch lens is missing, but that doesn't bother me much. There is clearly Nichia 219B about 4500K, the shade shows red better than CRI~70 , but worse than HDS NB45 with CRI>90, I guess there is about 80 here.

As for the plastic lens, I would also add that this is more a retreat to the very beginning than a step to the side, the very first E1L E2L and 6P had a Lexan lens that was held on something like glue or just sat tight, and I do not remember the indignation that they are scratched, only some notes that they are slightly deformed from heating in the place above the lamp

catalog 2002

 

[Kid9P]

So I managed to remove the bezel ring on my G2X after a ton of effort.

I have a nice stainless bezel ring for it, but I have no idea what size glass lens I need?
I have an old G2 head and tried that lens, but it's too thick.

Anyone know what size lens I would need for the G2X ?

 

[yazkaz]

So I managed to remove the bezel ring on my G2X after a ton of effort.

I have a nice stainless bezel ring for it, but I have no idea what size glass lens I need?
I have an old G2 head and tried that lens, but it's too thick.

Anyone know what size lens I would need for the G2X ?

I don't know the size of the said lens in question, but I believe Lumens Factory may have a lens upgrade kit for the 6PX/G2X and such, complete with all necessary gaskets. I haven't followed LF regarding this matter for some time already, so you may want to contact LF for details and follow-up.

 

[Toohotruk]

The tailcap boot on my g2x pro has torn and needs to be replaced. Does anyone know how to get the damn switch out of the tailcap? I bought a tool to remove it, but it's in there like it's glued. I figured I would put a McClicky in there while I have it apart...if I can get it apart. I have an old Solarforce clicky on it now, but I don't know how long that switch will hold up...there is a huge difference in quality between that one and the McClicky to say the least, lol. An no, the McClicky won't work with the Solarforce tailcap...already tried that.

 

[yazkaz]

The tailcap boot on my g2x pro has torn and needs to be replaced. Does anyone know how to get the damn switch out of the tailcap? I bought a tool to remove it, but it's in there like it's glued. I figured I would put a McClicky in there while I have it apart...if I can get it apart. I have an old Solarforce clicky on it now, but I don't know how long that switch will hold up...there is a huge difference in quality between that one and the McClicky to say the least, lol. An no, the McClicky won't work with the Solarforce tailcap...already tried that.

First of all, which tool did you purchase for such disassembly? Is it the three-prong tool from LF, or something else?

If indeed you have the LF tool concerned, then it's probably the tailcap disassembly approach/skill that gets in the way. Have you tried heating up the G2X tailcap (eg. heat blowing for 10-15 mins), or freezing it (inside ziploc bag) for ~30 minutes? If not then I suggest you try that. In addition, you can also try pouring a little acetone (100%) into the tailcap chassis and let it seep into the switch threads, let the tailcap sit for a little while, then retry the disassembly process again.

Do however be careful as you're dealing with a plastic tailcap host instead of the usual metallic one. The main difference is that, while slightly threadlocked metal parts are easy to overcome and remove, such may not be the case with plastic (Nitrolon or similar) parts. Overdo the disassembly process and you may crack the plastic host components.

The above suggestions are based on my years-long experience with disassembling Z41 tailcap chassis. One of the most difficult tasks would be to remove the inner Delrin retainer ring in one piece, without damaging it, in order to fully retain the complete twisty switch internals for reserve and/or resale purposes. Under certain circumstances that ring wouldn't move even after extensive heating, and forcibly removing it via nose pliers would by 90% mar it. That's when freezing should take case where the success rate is as high as 99%. In recent days however I usually stick to the acetone trick where I also take the opportunity to clean up the tailcap host's internal threads. The rings pops out every time with minimal resistance.

 

[Dave D]

The tailcap boot on my g2x pro has torn and needs to be replaced. Does anyone know how to get the damn switch out of the tailcap? I bought a tool to remove it, but it's in there like it's glued. I figured I would put a McClicky in there while I have it apart...if I can get it apart. I have an old Solarforce clicky on it now, but I don't know how long that switch will hold up...there is a huge difference in quality between that one and the McClicky to say the least, lol. An no, the McClicky won't work with the Solarforce tailcap...already tried that.

Contact SF customer service and explain that your tailcap boot has torn, there is a good chance that they'll replace it FOC.

 

[yazkaz]

Contact SF customer service and explain that your tailcap boot has torn, there is a good chance that they'll replace it FOC.

Can't depend on SF CS these days, as in recent years they have a tendency to deprecate older model support, as parts run out. And even if SF could replace the tailcap in question, we would end up with another otherwise fine tailcap (short of a good boot) destined for shredding and such. What a waste of precious resources!

I'd rather see the OP try opening it and fix it first. At worst case (eg. if the Nitrolon tail host gets broken) he can still opt for SF CS support, or simply get a good used one online.

And BTW, I think LF does offer a replacement switch boot variant for tailcaps like that of the G2X, and in three colors.

 

[Toohotruk]

Thanks for the suggestions, but shortly after I made that last post, my grlfriend's dog found my tailcap on the coffee table and chewed it up beyond anything that could be salvaged. So the Solarforce cap is permanent in it now. That's OK though...it looks more like a true beater now with all the scrapes and gouges and now bare aluminum showing on the tailcap, lol. I need to take a couple of pics to post on the beater thread.

 

[random_name]

I have a 2016ish 320 lumen 6px and idk what chemical I managed to get on it but it ate part of the lens.

I saw LF has This for sale.

How much of a pita is it to get the factory bezel and lens out to replace it? Any special tools needed?

 

[PoopieMcGhee]

I have a 2016ish 320 lumen 6px and idk what chemical I managed to get on it but it ate part of the lens.

I saw LF has This for sale.

How much of a pita is it to get the factory bezel and lens out to replace it? Any special tools needed?

Kind of an old thread but I'm trying to replace the rubber on my tailswitch, so I'll answer this and keep looking for more info.

Anyway, the tool that place has has two sides and a hole for a screwdriver, the z44 side fits in the g2x I have. I boiled the head down in water for like 30 mins and added some bsi un-cure debonder. It only needs to go around the bezel to head mating point. The lens is essentially part of the bezel. Anyway, I left it tailstanding while it cooled and did the work. When it was fully cooled, it twisted off using that tool and a screwdriver in the hole of the tool for leverage, but broke in pieces... it's a one way trip for the stock bezel and lens.

The other one I have had to be dremeled out and the yellow of the head chipped off with the unreasonable violence and pliers I was using trying to get it off with the tool. Great learning experience though. The boiling and Bob Smith uncure are the way to go.

Hope that helps someone in the future.

 

[Toohotruk]

Here's what my G2X looks like now: