I'm a big fan of hall-effect switches because there's no failure mode that floods the light. Taskled's Hallsw and Halltg boards make implementing them easy for single-mode lights, and can interface with many commercially available drivers. Also, I've built two multi-mode drivers using Hall sensors, and would be happy to share details.
Keep in mind that Neodymium magnets (AKA Neo, Neodymium-Iron-Boron, or NdFeB, though they should be called Iron-Neodymium-Boron magnets since they are primarily iron), even if nickel-plated (you might think they are chrome plated), will rust out and disintegrate after exposure to salt water. Mine lasted several seasons. And by the way, like anything iron, they expand when they rust, so they cannot be pushed out of a tight hole they are installed in. Ask me how I learned this. I bought some samarium-cobalt magnets on eBay to overcome this issue, as they have very high corrosion resistance. I imagine the old Darrell Allan lights used Alnico magnets, as the more exotic varieties weren't available at the time. In decreasing order of strength, Neo, SmCo, Alnico.
Piezo switches can also have minimal flood risk, as they can be permanently installed, even with epoxy. But they can be a little more difficult to use as many drivers don't work with a momentary input. I've built a light with a DIY piezo switch, and can share thoughts about that (mainly, get a commercial switch).
Needless to say, the feel of a switch isn't a big thing to me.
