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vinhnguyen54 D26/P60 XML Drop In Run 6 Sale Thread NEW PILL AND REFLECTOR AVAILABLE

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Kevin1322

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Ugh. Every time I think I'm ready to order I have more questions. My dad got a light today that had more of a neutral tint to it (as compared to my cool white tints). I was really surprised how much more definition it gave and how much I liked it. So, at 3.85 amps, aprox how much difference in output is there between the NEURAL 5000K and the U2 COOL WHITE 6500K? Like you I love my lumens, but for as much as this drop is going to get used, maybe it's time to try this tint. Also, I had decided to go with the new smooth reflectors you have, but you said that they don't work well with the neutral tint due to the dohnut hole it makes. I'm not a white wall hunter, but if it's obvious when using outside, say to light up a tree or house, it would drive me nuts. So just how noticable is it? I want the extra throw the smooth gets, but not if it makes for an ugly beam with the neutral tint.
In regaurds to this section:
Section 2) Current/Amp Choice

I can set the circuit driver from 380mA -5,840mA380ma-3,040mA = Free
To set from 3,040mA up to 5,840mA please add $1 per 350ma increment
Example: 3,040mA + 350mA*3= 4,090mA => + $3 to price
XML produce 1000 LED lumen at around 4,200ma

What is the equivelent to the 3.85 amps you said to use so I know how much to add? Last, and I don't need it to be exact at all, but about what would the lumens be on the moon level? Thanks!
 

Skylumen

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I have light OP reflectors that sacrifice negligible throw for a more much pleasant beam for neural/warm LEDs. To me anywhere between 4000-5000K produce the best easy on the eye tint. But for a neutral tint LED I would suggest stepping down current to about 3.42A. The neutral/warm tint LEDs doesn't handle current as good as the Cool Whites. Even 3A is a good current for the Neutral/Warm tint LEDs. Moonlight is abotu 1-3 lumen. A neutral LED at 3.42A makes about 870 Lumen. But dont worry too much 870 and 1000 is not a big difference to the eyes, well, it might be if our pupil doesn't contract when we see a bright light. LOL
 

Kevin1322

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I have light OP reflectors that sacrifice negligible throw for a more much pleasant beam for neural/warm LEDs. To me anywhere between 4000-5000K produce the best easy on the eye tint. But for a neutral tint LED I would suggest stepping down current to about 3.42A. The neutral/warm tint LEDs doesn't handle current as good as the Cool Whites. Even 3A is a good current for the Neutral/Warm tint LEDs. Moonlight is abotu 1-3 lumen. A neutral LED at 3.42A makes about 870 Lumen. But dont worry too much 870 and 1000 is not a big difference to the eyes, well, it might be if our pupil doesn't contract when we see a bright light. LOL
Don't you sleep haha? Thanks. Ok, so then how much extra is it to push it at 3.42A (Example: 3,040mA + 350mA*3= 4,090mA => + $3 to price) so I know what to pay you?
 

Skylumen

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Don't you sleep haha? Thanks. Ok, so then how much extra is it to push it at 3.42A (Example: 3,040mA + 350mA*3= 4,090mA => + $3 to price) so I know what to pay you?

I am working on 2 Surefire E1L LED and Driver upgrade and its pissing me off...Yeah...I solder and answer online questions at the same time. LOL :)
 

TEEJ

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OK, I have a Surefire Centurion C2 with nothing inside it. Its not bored for an 18650, but I'd consider boring it, or, using a couple of RCR123's in it instead.

So, what would you recommend to fill the empty C2 with?

:D
 

Freaker

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What do you have to say about current on the 4000K LED? The one I sent you is 4090ma. Is that past the point where heat starts to outweigh lumens?

And maybe this is a stupid question, but I assumed the LED's were the same, just with the warm and neutral ones having a cover over them to filter out some of the blue?
 
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Skylumen

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OK, I have a Surefire Centurion C2 with nothing inside it. Its not bored for an 18650, but I'd consider boring it, or, using a couple of RCR123's in it instead.

So, what would you recommend to fill the empty C2 with?

:D

17670 and cr123a. I never quite like rcr123 as they have a low capAcity.
 

Skylumen

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What do you have to say about current on the 4000K LED? The one I sent you is 4090ma. Is that past the point where heat starts to outweigh lumens?

And maybe this is a stupid question, but I assumed the LED's were the same, just with the warm and neutral ones having a cover over them to filter out some of the blue?


No the cover over the Leds so that the reflector won't short the connections. I use different isolator materials sometime. 4A is a lot of current for any XML. U are not loosing lumen yet though. But the gain is marginal as I discussed many time. If u want I can Bronson it's down to 3.5 or 3 for better runtime. :)
 

Freaker

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No the cover over the Leds so that the reflector won't short the connections. I use different isolator materials sometime. 4A is a lot of current for any XML. U are not loosing lumen yet though. But the gain is marginal as I discussed many time. If u want I can Bronson it's down to 3.5 or 3 for better runtime. :)

No, I'm a lumen whore. I want it right where it levels off and just starts making more heat. It seems like 4 amps is right at that mark, according to that budgetlightforum.com chart.
 

archimedes

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Hope its OK I check in here with you ... just checking, did you get my PM and :paypal: ?

Oh, and I forgot to mention that OP reflectors for both drop-ins would be preferred :thanks:
 
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Skylumen

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Got it! I just ordered 30 OP reflectors so I got plenty of that! :)
Hope its OK I check in here with you ... just checking, did you get my PM and :paypal: ?

Oh, and I forgot to mention that OP reflectors for both drop-ins would be preferred :thanks:
 

Skylumen

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I think 2A is a good current for 2*cr123a. But I still say go 17670 and kick it up to 3.5a!
 

TEEJ

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Well let me know if you need a Drop in from me ;-)

LOL

I thought we just did that.

:devil:

I just need to be sure that all I need is the drop-in, the empty light, and probably a clicky from you to replace the tail cap.

I suppose the modes, etc are in question still...

I'll see if I can make sense of it, say I want something, let you tell me why it won't work, and recommend what I should get instead.

BRB.


OK, running on what you recommended above ("But I still say go 17670 and kick it up to 3.5a!")

In the Centurion C2 body, its just the shell, a lens, battery tube and tail...nothing inside right now...

If I add your pill, a 17670 cell, and a McClicky - Will I have working light?

I'm thinking:

Cool U2, No Memory, High-Medium-Moonlight, Smooth Reflector

Any suggestions?

:huh:
 
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Skylumen

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Everything sounds great. The C2 is one of my favorite host! Since that host only take 17670 and CR123A size batteries I do suggest you might want to consider choosing a Low-Medium-High with memory in a 2.8-6V driver instead. This way you can run 2*CR123A on medium and low on emergency sitatuations. But if you know for sure you will only run 17670 and like the mode set up as above the I will proceed with that build. And you wanted XML-U2 Cool White right?
 

TEEJ

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Everything sounds great. The C2 is one of my favorite host! Since that host only take 17670 and CR123A size batteries I do suggest you might want to consider choosing a Low-Medium-High with memory in a 2.8-6V driver instead. This way you can run 2*CR123A on medium and low on emergency sitatuations. But if you know for sure you will only run 17670 and like the mode set up as above the I will proceed with that build. And you wanted XML-U2 Cool White right?

XML cool white is correct.

Does the L-M-H with memory to allow CR123's run any brighter/dimmer than the 17670 only version?

And, I need to make sure there are no blinking or strobe modes in this light, as they send the wife into seizures.

:D
 

Skylumen

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No disco modes. Brightnessis identical with 17670. You are just getting Low-Medium-High with memory 3-6V instead of 2.5-4.5V High-Medium-Moonlight with no memory. That's all.
 
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