jch79
**Do Not Feed The Vegan**,
The Protectaclear really makes this thing pop. What a cool combination of color, pattern, and texture. :twothumbs
Congrats to the owner, whoever they may be!
:thumbsup: john
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When I use heat for coloring purposes I use the back part of the flame on the outside of the yellow spectrum. Go real slow and when you first start to see the color change stop heating it and wait about 30 seconds and re-inspect. This will stop the heat coloring transfer and makes the coloring more uniform. I also dont heat the same area for any length of time. The flame is always moving so I dont get things blotchy or over colored, patience is key. I also do more flat sections than your round flashlites Fred. But the thicker sections get more heat and then I work to the thinner section. If you dont do it that way the thin sections way over color first and look washed out on my knives. I probably spend 5 minutes for each piece bringing it up to color.
Unfortunately, the largest diameter bar of Mokume Gane that I can buy is 19mm, and after cleaning it up a tad, that takes it down to 18.50mm, which is not large enough for a CR123 battery.
Just Google Protectaclear--it is a polymer coating.
Large enough for AA maybe? I wonder what MG would look like knurled? :thinking:
I think knurling would look terrible in MG, due to the different hardnesses of the two/three metals, plus, you would break up the nice pattern that is inherent in the twist pattern.
Although I like knurling, it's mainly for the grip it affords and the machining done on a great many of your lights negates the need for anything more.Normally, cut knurling is done continuously along the axis of the light, so if you wanted bands of knurling, you would have to machine away the knurls.
However, form knurling can be done in specific locations, but is limited to the width of the knurling bit, usually not very wide. I think I have one decorative knurl and it is 6mm wide.