What's the best EDC flashlight in 2012 and why?

[Fireclaw18]

Pity...guess I'm lucky my D25C'c have kept all modes (including disco and moonlight/low) except medium on Li-ion's. I think I'd contact Eagletac about it, since even though they do go out of regulation on 3.7v ICR Li-ion's, Eagletac's website clearly states they accept this as a power source.

And they do accept it as a power source. They just only work reliably on max power direct drive mode.

The D25a titanium seems especially risky on IMR at max power. The head gets noticeably hot the instant the power is turned on and becomes too hot to comfortably touch within 30 seconds.

 

[dss_777]

Still carry an Arc AAA on the keychain, and use it every day. Wears very well, and oddly enough, it still seems to provide enough light most of the time.

I also use the Malkoff MD2+M61+high/low ring every day- around the house, camping, out walking the dogs, and for general bump-in-the-night purposes. Have a Malkoff Wildcat for BIGGER bumps-in-the-night, and various other Malkoff-equipped 6P format lights in cars and odd spots... these I grab as needed, they're just too big to haul around as an EDC, except in a bag.

 

[Yourfun2]

Pity...guess I'm lucky my D25C'c have kept all modes (including disco and moonlight/low) except medium on Li-ion's. I think I'd contact Eagletac about it, since even though they do go out of regulation on 3.7v ICR Li-ion's, Eagletac's website clearly states they accept this as a power source.

Lucky indeed! My D25C With RCR does moonlight and high plus all the blinkers. No turbo. At least it doesn't get hot.:ironic:

 

[Southpaw1925]

That's just with 3v primaries. Subwoofer's CPF review measured it at 563 lumens with std. ICR 16340's and 662 lumens on IMR's...

What is the difference between cr123, rcr123, 16350, 18350, and imr?

 

[tjswarbrick]

Chalk another one up for the EagleTac's Neutral Ti D25C Clicky.
Small, light, tough, easy to carry, easy to use, great moonlight, useful med-low, "Wow" Turbo. Decent hotspot, great spill, nice tint. Great runtime on low. Everyday I have a choice, and nearly every day I choose this.
Of course, I'm still waiting for my Hi CRI HDS Clicky.

I tried a bunch this year.
Honorable mentions:
PhotonFanatic Groovy!: Great feel, smoothest beam ever, nice white tint; only 1 mode, and somewhat finicky switch.
47's neutral Quark Tactical 123x: Good size, light, affordable, great tint, nice beam, can set Moonloght as Primary; have to chose which 2 modes to default; threads or O-Ring sometimes don't cooperate, and either won't switch modes, or won't come on.
47's Preon2: bright, good mode spacing, pretty colors; std clicky comes on inadvertantly, a little long for its girth, and kinda slick.
EagleTac Neutral P20C2MKII: Perfect balance of spot vs throw, nice size for a 2xCR123, great tint, great UI; I was perfectly happy with it until I discovered bright single-cell lights. 2xCR123 is just a little too big for the pocket sometimes.
JetBeam E3S: Pretty, weighty, easy UI, great length:width ratio, good mode spacing; off tint, kinda heavy, a little slick. I was very happy with it until I tried some others.

 

[T45]

For me the Quark Mini 123 and Maratac AA work really well. I probably prefer the Mini over all, but I do have some concerns about finding spare batteries if the need ever arose. I am curious about trying the Sunwayman V11R and M10A.

 

[cyclesport]

What is the difference between cr123, rcr123, 16350, 18350, and imr?

I'm certainly one of the least qualified to speak to the subject of batteries, and many others on this forum are far more knowledgable than I, but a CR123 is a 3v lithium non-rechargable "primary" battery. RCR123 and, industry term 16340 is esentially the same thing, a 3.7v nominal (4.2v right off charger) rechargable lithium-ion battery, typically refering to a lithium-cobalt chemistry or ICR. An 18350 is an IMR, also a 3.7v rechargable, or specifically a lithium-manganese safe chemistry (no protection circuit needed w/these).

For a great way to get a better understanding of the various types of batteries, go to Batteryuniversity.com and click on types of lithium-ion batteries for a quick education on the subject.

 

[Southpaw1925]

I'm certainly one of the least qualified to speak to the subject of batteries, and many others on this forum are far more knowledgable than I, but a CR123 is a 3v lithium non-rechargable "primary" battery. RCR123 and, industry term 16340 is esentially the same thing, a 3.7v nominal (4.2v right off charger) rechargable lithium-ion battery, typically refering to a lithium-cobalt chemistry or ICR. An 18350 is an IMR, also a 3.7v rechargable, or specifically a lithium-manganese safe chemistry (no protection circuit needed w/these).

For a great way to get a better understanding of the various types of batteries, go to Batteryuniversity.com and click on types of lithium-ion batteries for a quick education on the subject.

Thanks for looking out

 

[liteboy]

Here's a good reason not to buy ANY Niteye products, and for that matter to be very suspicious of ANY lights made in China.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?328804-A-quot-copy-quot

As tempted as I am to buy the RELATIVELY lower costing and higher performing lights, the reason they are such is that they copy ideas and designs from others and furthermore take advantage of their own citizens, while a handful of business owners and powerful politicians rake in the money. The next U.S. president must stop this unfair trade relationship we have with China or this country will sink further into the abyss. Heard of Huawei?? Sorry for the rant.

 

[HaileStorm]

Here's a good reason not to buy ANY Niteye products, and for that matter to be very suspicious of ANY lights made in China.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?328804-A-quot-copy-quot
The next U.S. president must stop this unfair trade relationship we have with China or this country will sink further into the abyss. Heard of Huawei?? Sorry for the rant.

A little harsh, don't you think? I don't really care where your statement leads, but really... It's uncalled for.

 

[Fireclaw18]

Here's a good reason not to buy ANY Niteye products, and for that matter to be very suspicious of ANY lights made in China.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?328804-A-quot-copy-quot

As tempted as I am to buy the RELATIVELY lower costing and higher performing lights, the reason they are such is that they copy ideas and designs from others and furthermore take advantage of their own citizens, while a handful of business owners and powerful politicians rake in the money. The next U.S. president must stop this unfair trade relationship we have with China or this country will sink further into the abyss. Heard of Huawei?? Sorry for the rant.

This seems most irrelevant to deciding what is the best EDC flashlight of 2012.

In determining what is the best, I consider factors like size, ergonomics, performance, beam profile, tint and UI.

The politics of where a light is made might affect my decision to buy a light, but doesn't affect whether the light itself was the best in its class.

Also an overgeneralized statement against all products made in China seems rather extreme. Take a look around your house. Probably over half the products in it were made in China anyways.

 

[Lighteous]

Let me know which one you like the most out of the three!

The RRT01 is my favorite. The Niteye is almost the same light but the grip on the control ring is inferior. I did end up getting a V11R too. I really like it, but I wouldn't trade my RRT01 for it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Southpaw1925]

Mine is the Fenix TK15 .... 4 levels and strobe with good runtimes..... not wild about the tactical ring.....debating on removing it and the pocket clip.

How's the beam looking on this thing? Hotspot with a spill? Throwy with a little bit of flood?

 

[AlphaZen]

Thrunite T10 is the perfect EDC for me, mainly because of the beautiful mode spacing, firefly and Memory in a very small twisty. I carry it every day.
Thrunite Ti is nice - Love the UI - "Just keep twisting" and great level spacing
Fenix E05 is a perfect 'around the house' light or keychain light.
I like the Sunywayman V series, but 123 type lights are too chunky for EDC to me. Mine sits on the nightstand.

 

[whiteoakjoe]

I have tried at least 7 edc lights and keep coming back to the 4/7 Quark tactical AA. I did purchase a XML, AA^2 and swaped the heads. So now I have a Quark X AA Tactical. I love that it uses 14500's and gives 200+lm. and I can still scavenge for AA if needed. ( Look at the next gas station your in there are always AA's avalible on the road ) and thats a big plus for me. Its just big enough to have full features and not have to mess with a twisty UI. I can use lithiums for cold weather. I like the beam patern of the XML gives just the right amount of flood that can light up a good path and has a great wide spill. So after 4 years I finaly have given up looking for EDC lights this little Quark is mine.

 

[fisk-king]

Honestly, I am still happy with my setup for over a year and I highly doubt it will change unless Henry (HDS) decides to produce a headlamp. This has been my setup:

Ra Clicky 200cn (Legacy)- This is really my only work light that I will use 10 months out of the year (the other two is when I rotate my HDS Twisty Hi-cri). It is rugged, dependable and has a very nice white tint with a considerable amount of throw. I have dropped this light numerous times on concrete, lubricating oil, dirt, water and has still operated at the first push of a button. This light has not failed me but the only drawback is that it is bulky. I never carry it if wearing shorts or light pants.

Liteflux LF2xT- I usually have this light in my pocket outside of work 5 or 6 days out the week. It is bright, love the UI, and I have a choice of using primary, rechargeable, or li-ion (be careful not to loosen the head with the light on as it can fry the circuit ). The only drawbacks that I see is replacement parts for the light are downright impossible to find (especially hearing reports of the electronic switch failing) and replacing the light if lost since they are not made anymore.

Keychain- I imagine most flashaholics on here experiment with many different *keychain* lights and I am no exception. Before I even heard of CPF, a Gerber Infinity Ultra was the light my keys were attached to then it became the Modamag Drake. Now ~3 years later it is now a Thrunite ti (non-firefly) and so far it has done considerably well. The mode spacing is nice, seems to be pretty durable for keychain duty, and produces enough light for daily use that occasionaly I will grab only my keys and leave my regular EDC lights at home (if gone for short periods of time). An all around good light I must say.

 

[Outdoorsman5]

...So now I have a Quark X AA Tactical. I love that it uses 14500's and gives 200+lm...

I have a Quark X AA runnin on a 14500 as well. In Selfbuilt's review, he has the XML head coming in closer to 400 lumens....nice.

 

[hivoltage]

Another vote for Jetbeam RRT-01

 

[JKolmo]

I begin to think that my V11R Neutral recent limited edition is the best 2012 EDC for me.

 

[cland72]

I think the "perfect" EDC is going to vary by person, depending on what size light they can carry. I would love to EDC my Surefire E2DL but with my job I need something more discrete.

I carried a Fenix P1D-CE for 2-3 years, and then bought a 47 Mini123HCRI and it has been in my pocket for almost a year now. I don't like that I have to twist it on and off, but it's what is workable for my requirements.