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WTS: P60 Drop in Light Engine
- Thread starter Skylumen
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s, MT-G2 ;-)
Its either you have poor heat transfer from drop in to host that's why you don't know that the drop in is hot or the Host must be burning hot...
MT-G2 blazing full power for 9 min?The head assembly must have been searing hot.
What batteries? (already assuming 2X18650)
Its either you have poor heat transfer from drop in to host that's why you don't know that the drop in is hot or the Host must be burning hot...
ledmitter_nli
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
How do you copper bond? Is it all heat and solder?
Also I think LAB was referring to his first dropin.
So far both the copper and aluminum sinkpad runs great fien with protected NCR2900 18650 and IMR16340. I really do think the Copper sink pad heta sink better as it heat sink better for every LED I know. It takes more work for the copper bonding so there is a $20 price increase.
My Driver is not great yet. I am playing with resistors LOL
How do you copper bond? Is it all heat and solder?
Also I think LAB was referring to his first dropin.
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
Heat and solder paste then solder wires from below the LED. Everything is cramp so it takes a while to get things centered and good bonding everywhere.
Heat and solder paste then solder wires from below the LED. Everything is cramp so it takes a while to get things centered and good bonding everywhere.
ledmitter_nli
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
Give it your best shot. The 1st law of thermodynamics is counting on you.
Give it your best shot. The 1st law of thermodynamics is counting on you.
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
Actually I already shipped 3 Copper bonded MTG2 module. I just didnt have IMR18350 to test them LOL
Give it your best shot. The 1st law of thermodynamics is counting on you.
Actually I already shipped 3 Copper bonded MTG2 module. I just didnt have IMR18350 to test them LOL
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
FYI I will be out of the country on 26-29th of this month. I will not reply to anything or do any work during this period. Feel free to flood me with emails. I promise to reply to all when I return.
[email protected]
FYI I will be out of the country on 26-29th of this month. I will not reply to anything or do any work during this period. Feel free to flood me with emails. I promise to reply to all when I return.
[email protected]
ledmitter_nli
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
Your sending me three? Thanks man! I'll test them each and send you back the ones I didn't like.
Actually I already shipped 3 Copper bonded MTG2 module. I just didnt have IMR18350 to test them LOL
Your sending me three? Thanks man! I'll test them each and send you back the ones I didn't like.
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
You and one other ordered copper sink pad. The third was actually a gift for a distant friend.
Your sending me three? Thanks man! I'll test them each and send you back the ones I didn't like.
You and one other ordered copper sink pad. The third was actually a gift for a distant friend.
ledmitter_nli
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
Will lookout for it. Thanks.
Safe travels.
Will lookout for it. Thanks.
Safe travels.
MT-G2 Run Time Test.
My setup is the module well wrapped in copper tape, sitting in a Cryos Bezel from Oveready. The body is a stock Surefire C3-HA. Tailcap/switch is a slightly modified ElZetta Hi/low two mode. I'm running the double o-ring setup under the tailcap. There is a rubber spacer (similar to one of the rubber rings from a Z2 or M3) from an Armytek light filling the small gap between the tailcap and body. Batteries are 2x AW 17500 LiCo protected cells. The insulation from the rubber combat grip ring on the body is providing a nice thermal break, allowing me to hold the light from behind it to the end of the tail cap so that I can minimize heat sinking the light by holding it in my hand. I suspect that the dual o-rings and spacer o-ring are insulating the switch.
Update: Just shy of the 40 minute mark the output took a sharp drop. I quickly put on an Oveready Zero-Res twisty to make sure that I hadn't fried the ElZ switch. Light output was the same with the ZR. I've either killed the LED, or the batteries are almost completely drained - or both. Even after sharp output drop the light still dimmed further when the ElZ tailcap twisted out slightly in to low mode before removal, so that gives me hope. I only have one pair of 17500 batteries, so I'll see how the module performs later today after I get them charged back up. The light got pretty warm, but was never too hot to hold throughout the test. The light was warmest at the front off the flats, in the area directly behind the bezel. Moving my thumb and forefinger back just slightly to where they were on the SF logo and C3 lettering was noticeably less warm. Even grasping the Cryos bezel was slightly less warm than the very front of the flats. The threads were completely cool under the tail cap. Batteries were slightly warm, but no warmer than when coming off the charger, if even that warm.
Update again: After about 10 minutes of cooling while I typed I just swapped the MT-G2 module and Cryos bezel onto a SF C2 HA with 2x AW IMR 18350 cells. It fired right up at what appears to my eyes to be full brightness!
Other than the 18mm boring by Oveready and the Cryos that came over with the MT-G2, that was a bone stock SF C2 - even the switch / tail cap assembly. I'm not going to run an endurance test on that setup though. I also put the ElZ TC/switch assy on my D36 LED modified M3, and both modes worked perfectly. That's one tough switch!
My quick assessment is that the full copper wrap on the module combined with the Cryos bezel were essential to keeping the heat managed. I think the increased surface area of the light body both from the C series flats, and the 3 cell length also helped manage the heat a little better than a round 2 cell body would have - but you guys know way more about this than I do. I'm not sure that it matters, but my gut tells me that all the rubber rings providing the switch with a bit of thermal isolation from the body were also helpful. Again, I'm just a novice at this stuff though.
I hope this helps the rest of you.
My setup is the module well wrapped in copper tape, sitting in a Cryos Bezel from Oveready. The body is a stock Surefire C3-HA. Tailcap/switch is a slightly modified ElZetta Hi/low two mode. I'm running the double o-ring setup under the tailcap. There is a rubber spacer (similar to one of the rubber rings from a Z2 or M3) from an Armytek light filling the small gap between the tailcap and body. Batteries are 2x AW 17500 LiCo protected cells. The insulation from the rubber combat grip ring on the body is providing a nice thermal break, allowing me to hold the light from behind it to the end of the tail cap so that I can minimize heat sinking the light by holding it in my hand. I suspect that the dual o-rings and spacer o-ring are insulating the switch.
Update: Just shy of the 40 minute mark the output took a sharp drop. I quickly put on an Oveready Zero-Res twisty to make sure that I hadn't fried the ElZ switch. Light output was the same with the ZR. I've either killed the LED, or the batteries are almost completely drained - or both. Even after sharp output drop the light still dimmed further when the ElZ tailcap twisted out slightly in to low mode before removal, so that gives me hope. I only have one pair of 17500 batteries, so I'll see how the module performs later today after I get them charged back up. The light got pretty warm, but was never too hot to hold throughout the test. The light was warmest at the front off the flats, in the area directly behind the bezel. Moving my thumb and forefinger back just slightly to where they were on the SF logo and C3 lettering was noticeably less warm. Even grasping the Cryos bezel was slightly less warm than the very front of the flats. The threads were completely cool under the tail cap. Batteries were slightly warm, but no warmer than when coming off the charger, if even that warm.
Update again: After about 10 minutes of cooling while I typed I just swapped the MT-G2 module and Cryos bezel onto a SF C2 HA with 2x AW IMR 18350 cells. It fired right up at what appears to my eyes to be full brightness!
Other than the 18mm boring by Oveready and the Cryos that came over with the MT-G2, that was a bone stock SF C2 - even the switch / tail cap assembly. I'm not going to run an endurance test on that setup though. I also put the ElZ TC/switch assy on my D36 LED modified M3, and both modes worked perfectly. That's one tough switch!
My quick assessment is that the full copper wrap on the module combined with the Cryos bezel were essential to keeping the heat managed. I think the increased surface area of the light body both from the C series flats, and the 3 cell length also helped manage the heat a little better than a round 2 cell body would have - but you guys know way more about this than I do. I'm not sure that it matters, but my gut tells me that all the rubber rings providing the switch with a bit of thermal isolation from the body were also helpful. Again, I'm just a novice at this stuff though.
I hope this helps the rest of you.
Bullyson
Enlightened
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
I use a solarforce host with extension tube for 2 18650's and an A001 head on it. Copper wrapped.
I use a solarforce host with extension tube for 2 18650's and an A001 head on it. Copper wrapped.
ledmitter_nli
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
I'm planning to shove this into a surefire C2. McClicky. Standard head. Two Efest IMR 16340's 700mAh each.
I'm planning to shove this into a surefire C2. McClicky. Standard head. Two Efest IMR 16340's 700mAh each.
ledmitter_nli
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
I wonder what the discharge and output curves look like however.
I wonder what the discharge and output curves look like however.
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
The curve should start out a bit flat then then goes into a linear dip. Output though LOL IDK
The curve should start out a bit flat then then goes into a linear dip. Output though LOL IDK
ledmitter_nli
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Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
I wonder if you can raise the Vf by burning-in the MT-G2 like the SST-90.
I wonder if you can raise the Vf by burning-in the MT-G2 like the SST-90.
Bullyson
Enlightened
Re: vinhnguyen54 D26 P60 Dropn Ins All Copper Bonded PCBs even XP-G2s2
What kind of quality is the Efest IMR 16340?
What kind of quality is the Efest IMR 16340?
