You Guys are Making Me Very Very Nervous!

[Kestrel]

I mean, ask yourselves honestly, given the amazing output of the newer generation of LEDs is all this risk really worth it? Do you really need more than 100-200 lumens OTF for most applications? I don't. Just saying...

Just a FYI, the OP (member # 553, joined in 2002) posted this thread after reading up on the various risks of LiIon technology; he is unsure that given what he has learned, if LiIons are worthwhile for him.

There are lots of threads on CPF about the specific risks and how best to avoid them, I think that this is more of a discussion thread than a 'what-do-I-do?' thread.

 

[spongefile]

@Teej yes, that helps a lot.

 

[archer6817j]

IMHO, for basic use, stick to single cell lights. I'd say that's the biggest precaution besides quality (protected) cells and chargers. I actually give this a lot of thought as I sell lights and don't want someone to have an explosion, or worse. The main reason I only sell AW batteries is because of their safety record. I someone wants to use other batteries or charger, all bets are off. It seems that most of the time people run into problems with multi cell lights, rechargeable or not, or with unprotected cells. In my mind, single cell lights and a quality battery/charger combo mitigates nearly all the risk. I guess it's also responsible manufacturing practice to use a driver with voltage cut off that will actually disable the light before the cells protection circuit trips.

 

[LEDninja]

I gave away a Fenix L0D one Christmas Gifts and threw in a 10440 and Nano charger. The recipient mentioned with the 10440 the light was very bright but got too hot too fast so decided to stick with AAA.

I never got CR123A lights. The batteries are too expensive around here.

I got into 18650 as the early P7 lights only come that way. Did not like my MTE. Flaky UI plus have to cycle through strobe to change levels. Got a single mode Elektrolumens EDC P7. Used these lights so rarely the batteries self discharged to nothing. Tossed half a dozen so far.

I currently EDC a Quark neutral X 2AA head, 1AA body with AW P14500.
The other lights I use are AA/AAA.

And my Elektrolumens 3C P7 Mag when I need bright.

 

[bshanahan14rulz]

What is that yellow light on the right called? I had a similar one, but it was a standard flashlight shape, 2xAA, with twisty clear head, rubber O-ring, and came with a light pipe attachment. Just curious if that is some sort of standard design or if it is the trademark look of a certain company. That was a cool little light

 

[hank]

And watch the Nano charger. I use RCR123s (protected) and usually wait til the flashlight's not lighting up to recharge. Today I thought, gee, it's been quite a while, and put the battery in the Nano to see. Got the red light, ok, it was getting low (duh, didn't check the voltage). Came back 20 minutes later and the light was green, and the voltage was 4.25.

Dang. Put it back in the one-cell light and ran it down to 4.1 fairly quickly, didn't blow myself up ...

 

[StarHalo]

What is that yellow light on the right called?

Underwater Kinetics; they sell them over at BrightGuy. I had one ~15 years ago, coolest incan beam I ever owned..

 

[LEDninja]

What is that yellow light on the right called? I had a similar one, but it was a standard flashlight shape, 2xAA, with twisty clear head, rubber O-ring, and came with a light pipe attachment. Just curious if that is some sort of standard design or if it is the trademark look of a certain company. That was a cool little light

uwkinetics UK2AAA eLED® Mini Pocket Light.

the straight line LED one is called UK2AAA eLED® Pen Light S

Looks like they have updated the light. It is now 7 lumens 15 hours instead of 3 lumens 20+ hours.
They also have a more powerful unit UK2AAA eLED MPL I - 35 lumens for 3 hours.