Z57 Tail Switch Opinions

[Darell]

Yikes! Didn't know what I'd started here. There were so many similar threads on this, that I lost track. Klaus was kind enough to nudge me back to finish what I started.

First off, back before I even posted in this thread, I sent PK the link here, just as a heads up. I'm pretty sure that he's aware of the score.

Second - what I did to my clickies involved complete disembowlment. The notched ring at the end (which is locktited into place) was removed, and all the guts spilled on the bench. I've heard reports of folks not being able to reassemble all the parts correctly after this proceedure, so I can't, in good conscience, recommend it to anybody. The one consistent correction that I made to each switch was the addition of Nye control lube to the plastic sleeve that rides up and down in a high-tolerance plastic cylider. Sometimes that sleeve binds up right when the switch hits the click resistance. This can cause that odd mushy feeling, and can also cause the switch to stick. The switches that required a thumb TIP press to operate before the procedure, all became operable with the ball of the thumb after the procedure. In none of them did I alter any springs. Some remain slightly harder to press than others, but they all have much better action and consistency.

This is an extrememly high-quality switch. And I don't say that lightly. This one is truly deserving of the Surefire name. A spot of extra lube in just the right place would have made it stellar.

 

[LitFuse]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif Thank you very much Darell. One last question- Is the "Nye control lube" one of the varieties that is being sold here? Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


Peter

 

[Darell]

Yup. 779cz. But get 'em both. I use the conductive one more than the control one, actually. But the control is the best for this switch situation.

Oh, man. I don't think I've ever had anybody genuflect to me before. I'm not worthy.

 

[cman light]

One problem I fixed on 2 of my Z57's was the switch was coming on to easy and was not clicking off, the problem was the rubber boot over the end of the switch was not allowing the switch to completely go off. All you have to do is stick a small plastic washer on top of the switch to raise the boot up, I cut a small piece from a old notebook cover, I know we shouldn't have to do things like this but it was a very quick fix and my switches work perfect.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[LightChucker]

Darell,

Would you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gifplease/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif describe the procedure and tools you use to disassemble a Z57? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I sure would appreciate this, because I would really enjoy seeing how it works as well as being able to clean and lubricate it from time-to-time.

Thanks a bunch,

Chuck /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

 

[Darell]

[ QUOTE ]
ChuckDecker said:
Darell,

Would you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gifplease/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif describe the procedure and tools you use to disassemble a Z57? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
OK, ok. Here is the official, top-secret method that I use:

1. Hold the switch housing in a soft-jawed clamp (a strap wrench would also work)
2. Find/buy/make a tool that will register in those two notches at the outside/rear of the switch. I made one from some old pin pliers.
3. Pause briefly and recognize that you might scratch the hell out of everything, and/or crush the housing - and end up with scrap.
4. Unscrew that notched ring, realizing that it is locktited into place.
5. Carefully remove the guts, keeping track of the order.
6. Inspect the plastic sleeve for any non-smooth surface or contaminate.
7. Lubricate everything you see (especially that sleeve!)
8. Reassemble.

Sometimes, tucking the black rubber boot down into position was the toughest part of the project.

I expect that some of these will be easier to crack open than others. Mine went from really hard to almost impossible.

 

[FlashlightOCD]

Darell,

Where should we send all the tiny leftover parts after reassembling?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

 

[Darell]

[ QUOTE ]
FlashlightOCD said:
Darell,

Where should we send all the tiny leftover parts after reassembling?


[/ QUOTE ]

I'll send you a SASE. I might need 'em eventually. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[LightChucker]

Thank you, Darell! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Chuck

 

[AilSnail]

Just a little question about this switch: is it waterproof? divelight waterproof?

 

[E__WOK]

[ QUOTE ]
LitFuse said:
[ QUOTE ]
alberto said:
I'm still waiting for a great clickie from Surefire. The Z57 definitely ain't it.



[/ QUOTE ]

I'd be happy with a consistently "good" clickie.


[ QUOTE ]
Tombeis said:
[ QUOTE ]
alberto said:Now, with the L4, with its light-touch momentary, I wouldn't dare put it in my pocket without being locked out. So, to use it, it's *always* a twist to unlock first. I've grown to dislike contstantly locking and unlocking. Plus the mechanical feel and noise of the constant-on has become a little annoying. I think I like and appreciate the harder momentary and the smooth, solid feel of the twistie on the E2e better. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif



[/ QUOTE ]
I have to agree. The situation is even worse when you carry the L4 in a holster. Sit down in you vehicle, or in a padded chair, and the momentary switch position turns the light on and runs the battery down. The Z57 needs a shroud around the button to prevent accidential turn on.

If you think a shroud is not "tactical" Then why do I have shrouds around the button on the Surefire SW02 click switches I have on my M3 and Weaponlight? They are there to prevent accidential turn on.

The Z57 would have been perfect with a shroud.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree also, the low pressure momentary on is nice, but it can be a liability too. I haven't carried my L4 much yet, but I have had problems with it coming on when I didn't want it to. I don't know if the L4 is considered a "tactical" light, but some type of recessed clickie would seem to be the obvious solution to the problem. In my opinion, a protruding, low pressure switch is a pretty serious design flaw. I'm not familiar with the other switches discussed in this thread, but it seems like it shouldn't be rocket science to make some sort of recessed (or semi-recessed) switch that works without having to stab your thumb in there.

Peter

[/ QUOTE ]

You can click the light on then back it up about half a turn to turn if off so you can use it like a twisty.

 

[Ray_of_Light]

My L4 has the same problem, it turns on momentarily very easily, while for constant-on requires a strong axial pressure made with thumb tip.
I have a big thumb, it is not a big deal for me, but I would like a less "temperamental" switch.

I am afraid to open it and lube it, because from my previous experiences with locked threads, there are simply too many things that can go bad, and I am at the wrong side of the Atlantic to solve my flashlight problems quickly; in this specific case, to get a new tailcap.

I noted that the innards of the switch are exposed from the bottom of the battery pressure spring. Anybody knows if it is possible to put some lube from that opening, without taking the risk of destroying the switch by disassembling it?

Regards

Anthony

 

[alberto]

I've found that you can reduce the sensitivity of the momentary switch by unscrewing the tailcap out slightly. Well, it doesn't so much reduce the sensitivity as it increases the travel required to activate it -- which is almost the same thing. However, it doesn't help with the pressure required for full-on.

 

[Darell]

Hmmm. The way the switch is designed, unscrewing the tail should not effect the sensitivity. At some point, the switch just won't work (lockout) but up until that point, the sensitivity shouldn't be effected. The actuator spring is separate from the battery contact spring.

 

[The_LED_Museum]

I agree with Darell's assessment. I tried mine, and found no difference in momentary mode travel or pressure requirements between the almost locked out position and the fully tightened position - about 1/4 turn.

 

[alberto]

Hmmm, mine definitely works as previously described. In fact, that's the way I've set it up and use it. The position is just a hair before lockout. I think it might just point out the inconsistency in the way these switches work from unit to unit.

 

[LitFuse]

Wonder no more about the intricacies of the Z57 switch. For $12 I will make your Z57 the best it can be, with a money back guarantee! You will be able to click through to "constant on" with your "pinky" finger! See my post in the BST Lights forum for all the details.


Peter