Zebralight H51C first impressions

[DIΩDΣ]

You do lose some lumens between the w and c but I recall seeing some beamshots that looked like the spill was actually brighter on the c version... I might have reconsidered my w purchase had I known that, although I'd have to try and verify that was actually the case.

Battery choice, well there are many things to consider. 18650 is hard to beat. But I stuck with AA, I have no Li-ion lights or batteries or chargers yet. What other gear do you carry? My camera is also AA and I was debating on getting a steripen that runs AA. My primary and backup lights would be AA. Energizer L91's for the trip to get a little more power and less weight, and good to go. For shorter trips I wouldnt need batts for both the camera and steripen, a set of 4 could be shared. And if an emergency were to arise, batteries from one device could be sacraficed and used in the more critical device (like if I had to hike through the night to get out, I could devote the camera batts to the flashlight, or if I was stuck in the bush for a while, I could save most the batts to run the steripen, etc). H600w is very tempting though.

 

[reppans]

I'm with Diode and have consolidated all my portable electronics around AA Eneloops, including a Garmin GPS and Steripen. The single charger, set of back-up batts, ability to cannibalize, and buy in any store, has been great.... no worries about running out of power for me. The only thing not on AAs is my iPhone, but I EDC an iGo battery xtender, which chargers the phone from 2xAA. Even have a 4oz fold-up (folded size of 2 packs of cigarettes )solar panel that charge 2/4 Eneloops in 3.5/7 hrs for off-grid camping.

I picked up some 14500s, basically to show off with, but in all honesty, the added brightness is not worth the added Li-ion worries and hassles. I'm a low lumens fan that highly values night vision. I probably change my 1xAA batteries after somewhere between 50 and 100 hours of use (using mostly moonlight and a low single digit lumen level). I don't hike after the sun's down, just relaxing and camp chores... it's great to be able to just leave your light on constantly (moonlight), and not worry about burning batts.

I have the H51w and a few Quark AAs - these are the only two companies that cater to the AA, low mode, ultra-long run times folks. The ZL is a great, super versatile light - my only complaints are that moonlight is a pretty low frequency PWM (on the 51s), having to lock out the tailcap, and the company doesn't really stand behind its product (among the worst warranties).

One good thing about ZLs is that you never have to forfeit ultra-low modes even on their powerhouse lights.

 

[Gimpy]

Has anyone ever tested Zebralights actual OTF claims?

I haven't tested them (heck, I haven't even received my first one, yet). But judging from a few quick calculations, it looks like the numbers they use are very close to what the emitter lumens would be.

Take the H600, for example. The claim is 420 lumens for 2.3 hours on a 3100 mAh cell. That should work out to about a 1300 mA current draw, which would drive an XM-L t6 at around 175% of the flux produced at 700 mA (which, according to cree, is about 270 lumens). Actual calculation is somewhere around 470 lumens. Maybe the OTF is really close to the emitter output. I don't know.

Also, I haven't read any forum discussion on datasheets and how they are to be used/interpreted. Can't say for sure that I'm doing it right... just seemed like that's how it should be done.

 

[Justintoxicated]

The H600W is also much larger and kind of a funky shape for a headlamp, although I would certainly have no problems getting the flashlight version. Not saying it is really an issue, but the AA version is about the right size. If the 1860 version had the LED in the center I don't think it would look as weird but still kind of long. I'm really leaning towards the AA light as I don't own any AA lights anymore except an L1P that's converted to a twist because the switch is broken.

As far as OTF lumens the H51W I gave away as a gift was brighter than my Preon High CRI, so they are probably correct and that feat alone is pretty impressive coming from a single AA. I'd be more tempted to get a 18650 light if they made a high CRI version, but those are not out yet.

 

[themaxx69]

What about the Fenix HL20? I seem to see that one skipped a lot and spec wise it seems the best of the aa headlamps AND it's damn near half the price of the hc51. It has a 4 lumen low for over 2 days, and to me a more useable medium at 48 for 5.5 hours. Couple spare battery, good to go. I've had no issues with my tk40 and tk12(favorite). Tk12 is heavily used and dropped with no issues and I did have an hp20 which was doa but the USA warranty department was great, no hassles. I read about to many issues with the hp20 but none really about the hl20 so I'm really thinking about that one.

 

[themaxx69]

What about the Fenix HL20? I seem to see that one skipped a lot and spec wise it seems the best of the aa headlamps AND it's damn near half the price of the hc51. It has a 4 lumen low for over 2 days, and to me a more useable medium at 48 for 5.5 hours. Couple spare battery, good to go. I've had no issues with my tk40 and tk12(favorite). Tk12 is heavily used and dropped with no issues and I did have an hp20 which was doa but the USA warranty department was great, no hassles. I read about to many issues with the hp20 but none really about the hl20 so I'm really thinking about that one.

 

[themaxx69]

Don't know why that double posted. How do you delete a post?

 

[Cataract]

Don't know why that double posted. How do you delete a post?

You can't. Don't worry, they won't ban you for it.

I find the SC/H 31's and 51's have too short of a runtime for real outdoors activities other than twiddling around camp. I'm getting an H600W for hiking. I don't understand why Zebra get the same low runtimes on both AA's and RCR123's, while my PD20 will give me 180 lumens for almost 2 hours on RCR's. Good for weekend EDC, not for critical situations. At least the 600 series give decent runtimes with a decent output.

Fenix is coming out with a new headlamp (HL30) that obviously aims at the hikers market and I'm definitely getting one of those, although it will most likely be a cool white :/

 

[Changchung]

Hi guys, I know that some of you guys dosent have just a zebralight, show us your H600 and collection here;

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/321756


SFMI4UT

 

[Justintoxicated]

I got my H51C from illuminationsupply today and I love it (special order). No way I would trade the high CRI for a little more brightness on this unit.

The beam is very white, just slightly creamy, but it renders colors really well. I still like my Cree HCRI because it looks like an incan and is very yellow, but this is my new favorite. While I kinda think I should have gone for the floody, I think this one will be more versatile, and I still plan on picking up a 502 (maybe) if they ever come out.

I'll have to bring it down to my parents house sometime so I can compare with my step dads Neutral. I do remember his being brighter and I think a bit warmer than the high CRI which may seem odd to some. I think Zebra made a good choice in using the rebel instead of the cree high CRI, although I wouldn't mind having a cree high CRI headlamp that looks more like an incan too (very warm and easy on the eyes).

This is the first luxeon based light I have purchased in years.

 

[jorn]

Love the tint. Got the flood version.
I think the groove for the o-ring is cut too deep on my h51fc. Was not waterproof out of the box, water got past the o-ring (tested with both spare rings with the same result). The o-rings dident toucth the tailcap at all, so the threads felt really loose and sloppy. Had to put one of my spare o-rings from a aaa light under the o-ring to make it feel right and make it waterproof.

Nice beampattern for a headlamp. It's replacing my old h30. The h30 was a sometimes a bit too floody when walking in rugged terrain, the fc seems to be perfect for me.

 

[Justintoxicated]

So if you take the battery out, can you feel the tailcap engage the O-ring? I can on mine. Passed the sink test too, but now you have me paranoid
How did you test yours? The sink test doesn't add any real pressure, but I don't plan on taking this into the pool or beach with me either.

 

[jorn]

I noticed when i felt no extra friction when i screwed the cap past the o-ring. The cap rattled when it was in "lock out mode" (cap loosened 1/4 twist.)
Tested it in a bucket of water, and under the showerhead. Failed both test's. The extra o-ring fixed it all.

 

[Justintoxicated]

Well I don't have the tailcap issue but I have noticed one thing. I can barley see any visible difference between High1 and High2. Maybe a very minor increase, but not enough that I can justify 1/3rd the runtime, visually it appears maybe a 10-15% increase in brightness. This was not the case with my stepdads H51W where high was stunning! Maybe it's just the bin of the emitter in my light that is preventing it from achieving 130 lumens? Or maybe it is achieving near 130, but M2 is might brighter? I have a feeling it's not hitting 130 lumens though.

Obviouslyt I tried some different NIMH Batteries including new / older eneloops and duraloops.

H51W:
High: H1 172 Lm (0.9 hrs) or H2 86 Lm (2.4 hrs) / 120 Lm (1.7 hrs) / 4Hz Strobe
Medium: M1 26 Lm (10.5 hrs) or M2 7 Lm (26 hrs)
Low: L1 2.2 Lm (3 days) or L2 0.18 Lm (16 days)
* The 172, 120, 26, 7 and 2.2 Lumen output levels are current regulated. The 86 and 0.18 Lumen output levels are PWM generated.

H51C
High: H1 130 Lm (0.9 hrs) or H2 63 Lm (2.4 hrs) / 80 Lm (1.7 hrs) / 4Hz Strobe
Medium: M1 29 Lm (10.5 hrs) or M2 14 Lm (26 hrs)
Low: L1 2.8 Lm (3 days) or L2 0.3 Lm (16 days)
* the 130, 80, 29,14 and 2.8 Lumen output levels are current regulated. The 63 and 0.3 Lumen output levels are PWM generated.

So I was able to clearly see a difference on the H51W between 172 lumens and 86 lumens, but not between 130, and 63?
All other modes I can see a noticeable difference even between 29 and 14. I don't notice any PWMing which is often dreaded on this forum, and I am somewhat sensitive to it in some other lights, so as long as I can't tell I have no problem with that sort of regulation

At first I thought that the Headlamp was kind of inferior to the H51W due to lack of brightness on high for the run-times, but I find myself using M1 and M2 quite a bit, where the rebel is actually a little more efficient. Interesting

 

[eh4]

I keep my H51Fc on H2 with 60 lumens and rarely use it that bright; M1, M2, L1, L2 pretty much fill my needs.
The M1 and M2 efficiencies are great like you say, and with the floody I don't get blinded by a hot spot.
By the time I need H2 I'm really wanting a light with some throw or an AC halogen work light. I worried about the small difference in brightness between H1 and H2 for an hour or two but in the end I consider the high end on this light to be more of a stunt, it's incredible utility is in the Med and Low anyways, especially as floody.
.

I'm going to eventually have to recant and get an H600W or H600FW, but even then 90+% of it's usefulness will be it's lows and mediums; running 18 lumens for 2 straight days, 2.4 lumens for nearly 12 days, and yeah - 56 lumens for 18 hours would be pretty cool as well.

Car wrecks, house fires, encounters with dangerous animals, etc... really short term but intense crises is where I'd really want an extremely bright light, not so much for getting around and getting things done in the dark.