Zebralight SC600 & SC600W discussion part 2

shelm

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Question:

Are there SC600w owners who are *not* satisfied with the *tint* or beam pattern of their SC600w? -- maybe some NW samples had a greenish NW, too yellow, or nonuniform tint across the beam profile or some other kind of beam lottery?

( I am asking because i am hearing that the initial release of SC52 on 1xEneloop may have greenish CW tint, which is to expected from XM-L U2 imo, so i was wondering if ZL's choice of NW emitter is 100% always a safe bet. If it is, then i'll definitely wait for the SC52w and skip the SC52 cw XML. )
 

AVService

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I love my SC600w.
Mine has no trace of Green that I can tell even at low outputs where I could normally see them more easily if present.
I am not sure I could talk about Beam Pattern with this light really as it just floods where I tend to use it so far but it is a huge bright wall of warm light that I like or a small moonlight table lamp with an old Fuji film canister slipped over the bezel in my camper.
I think this may be my favorite Zebra,well next to all my other favorite Zebras.
Did I mention I love this light?!
 

pjandyho

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The floody beam profile of my SC600w is quite pleasant in my opinion. As for the tint, I could only say that it could be better. Although the tint on mine is nice, when compared to some of my other neutral white lights I honestly felt that it could benefit with a slight touch of magenta in it. Anyway, tint is subjective so YMMV.
 

oeL

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SC600W in direct comparison to two Xeno E03 V3 (NW tint): The ZL has a warmer tint, with a little better color rendering. Not greenish/purple at all.

SC600W compared to two different XML U2 CW lights with "throw" characteristics: Walking at night in the forests with the ZL is much more pleasure.The CW tint gives you a bit of a "black-and-white" feeling, and the small bright spot is not useful when you need to care for each single step you make. Athough the lumen output of the C600W is a bit less, you can grab more information from your surrounding.
 

markr6

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I'm curious about the tint of the H600w. Is there anyone with an H600w AND Nitecore EA4 or Fenix PD32UE? I have these and like the tint. I know the H600w should be warmer, but would like it if someone could do a direct comparison (not just stating 4200K vs 5000K). Thanks!
 

TEEJ

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I'm curious about the tint of the H600w. Is there anyone with an H600w AND Nitecore EA4 or Fenix PD32UE? I have these and like the tint. I know the H600w should be warmer, but would like it if someone could do a direct comparison (not just stating 4200K vs 5000K). Thanks!

The light from the 600W looks YELLOW, like a car's fog lights.

:D
 

oeL

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The light from the 600W looks YELLOW, like a car's fog lights.

I must disagree. On a white wall, the beam of a cars high beam has a bit of yellow/orange, while the SC600W looks just "white", some cool-neutral. Compare the SC600W with a fog beam - that usually has a lower color temperature than the high beam - it will look cool white, even a bit blue. Compare it with a XML U2 cool white, it will look yellow.

Its all relative.
 

TEEJ

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Oh yeah? Well cool white is always an ugly, hazy ghostly blue when compared to a neutral or or high CRI. :nana:


LOL - you say that as thought you don't LIKE yellow light?


I use yellow fog beams on purpose.

:D
 

burntoshine

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LOL - you say that as thought you don't LIKE yellow light?


I use yellow fog beams on purpose.

:D

I suppose they are yellowy in a sense, but I think of the tint as a more fire-like color; like candlelight. And using the warmer tinted fog lights should be ideal, so that makes total sense to me.

I thought you were insulting warmer tints, so I was just throwing some mud back at you in good fun. :D
 

neutralwhite

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so if warm makes it all cosy, what does neutral do?. cosy and cool ?. because some say neutral is no way near cool.
lol.

thanks...:thinking:
 

moozooh

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Neutral is supposed to introduce less foreign tint into objects' own colors, hence "neutral".

This is distinct from high CRI, which focuses on color reproduction specifically, but the way CRI is calculated currently may allow for a very significant reddish/yellowish tint (90+ CRI XM-Ls are 2600–3200 K, which is why they aren't very popular even with custom manufacturers).

A highly neutral (say, 4500–5000 K) low-ish CRI light could make all colors look equally bleak, for instance, while a high CRI non-neutral light makes them look vivid but may introduce chromatic distortions of its own.
 

TEEJ

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Yeah, in real life...tint is just that...what color your light is. The rendition of OTHER THING'S colors is not necessarily related. That's more of a function of the CRI and even some other factors.
 
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