Yet Another Noob Mag 3D Mod.

M

marrt

Guest
Ok, I've spent days and days reading this forum. There's so much information here that my head is spinning. I have to turn off the computer and think of nothing but Dolly Parton for 15 minutes before I can even go get a cup of coffee. However, I have made one simple decision…I want to mod my Mags. BIFTCPF (Before I Found The Candle Power Forum), I picked up a Mag 3D and 2AA combo pack (with batteries included) at Costco for $20. Seemed like a good deal at the time. However, now that I've discovered this site, and I want to improve them. I want to start with the 3D first. Here's what I'm thinking:

- Battery's: I want to add a rechargeable battery pack, but I must be able to leave the battery's in the light. I'm too lazy and unselfdisciplined to remove battery's, and place them in the charger one by one, ever time the light needs a charge. Therefore, I think I need something like an FM 3D to 9AA adapter (depending on final bulb choice). Where can I find a high quality adapter like this? Do I have to wait until FM runs another batch? Any other sources?

- Lens/Reflector: I want to improve the beam quality using a stippled reflector or UCL-LDF lens. I'm more from the wall-of-light camp than the bight spot camp so I don't care if I loose some throw. Should I wait for the Heavy Stippled reflector from light-edge or just go with the UCL-LDF? Any other sources for the Heavy Stippled lens?

- Bulb: I know this will disappoint many here, but I favor run time over ultimate brightness. Don't worry, I'm still in the incubation period and haven't fully caught the disease yet. I'm sure I'll change my mind soon. For now though, I'd like a run time of at least 45 mins with very good light (i.e., double the stock Mag with a fresh set of battery's at ~59 lumens I think), and another 15 or so mins before I have to put the light on a charger to avoid over-draining the battery's. Also, I'd like to avoid changing switches, soldering circuit boards, fabricating custom ceramic bulb holders or manufacturing diamond polished forged titanium heat sinks in my wife's oven. Does this mean I need a potted light bulb?

Your opinion and advice appreciated.
 

cratz2

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 6, 2003
Messages
3,947
Location
Central IN
Well, that's a lot of questions... First of all, the 3D is probably closer to 40 lumens than the 76.8 that Mag claims. And to double that is quite easy. Actually, you can get to about 100 lumens very VERY easily and cheaply. Keep the stock bulb, and replace the 3 D cells with 4 C cells. This will put you in the 100-ish lumen range... at least WAY over 60 lumens. No need to change the reflector or lens either as there will be no heat issues. I've never done a runtime test, but you'll get about 2 hours of good brightness.

To improve the beam, you can sputter the stock reflector using $1 of acrylic spray paint. Personally, I'd prefer to fix the beam with the reflector than using the LDF lens. I think the LDF lenses are great for close indoor work, but not so much for outdoor work, esp if you want something brighter than stock. It's very easy... Here's a link to both methods of sputtering that I've used.

There you have it... You can double the output of your Mag abd radically improve the beam for like $5 total. Just don't try to use the 3C Mag Xenon bulb on 4 cells or it will die instantly. Stick to the Radio Shack 3 cell bulbs. And in all honesty, you'll probably only get 2 or 3 battery changes before you need to change the bulb as well but I've yet to have a single Radio Shack bulb instaflash on me.
 
Last edited:

yaesumofo

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 21, 2003
Messages
3,701
Location
Eastern Pacific, LAX DM03 sw actual
http://darkgear.com/mrbulk/sn2build.htm
will show you how to stick an LED into ot and you will end up with a very bright led flashlight.

Also go to the group buy forum. You will find stuff made by fiveMega and others designed to soup up maglights with turn key kits which are very cool/
Yaesumofo

marrt said:
Ok, I've spent days and days reading this forum. There's so much information here that my head is spinning. I have to turn off the computer and think of nothing but Dolly Parton for 15 minutes before I can even go get a cup of coffee. However, I have made one simple decision…I want to mod my Mags. BIFTCPF (Before I Found The Candle Power Forum), I picked up a Mag 3D and 2AA combo pack (with batteries included) at Costco for $20. Seemed like a good deal at the time. However, now that I've discovered this site, and I want to improve them. I want to start with the 3D first. Here's what I'm thinking:

- Battery's: I want to add a rechargeable battery pack, but I must be able to leave the battery's in the light. I'm too lazy and unselfdisciplined to remove battery's, and place them in the charger one by one, ever time the light needs a charge. Therefore, I think I need something like an FM 3D to 9AA adapter (depending on final bulb choice). Where can I find a high quality adapter like this? Do I have to wait until FM runs another batch? Any other sources?

- Lens/Reflector: I want to improve the beam quality using a stippled reflector or UCL-LDF lens. I'm more from the wall-of-light camp than the bight spot camp so I don't care if I loose some throw. Should I wait for the Heavy Stippled reflector from light-edge or just go with the UCL-LDF? Any other sources for the Heavy Stippled lens?

- Bulb: I know this will disappoint many here, but I favor run time over ultimate brightness. Don't worry, I'm still in the incubation period and haven't fully caught the disease yet. I'm sure I'll change my mind soon. For now though, I'd like a run time of at least 45 mins with very good light (i.e., double the stock Mag with a fresh set of battery's at ~59 lumens I think), and another 15 or so mins before I have to put the light on a charger to avoid over-draining the battery's. Also, I'd like to avoid changing switches, soldering circuit boards, fabricating custom ceramic bulb holders or manufacturing diamond polished forged titanium heat sinks in my wife's oven. Does this mean I need a potted light bulb?

Your opinion and advice appreciated.
 

bjn70

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 25, 2004
Messages
1,097
Location
DFW, TX
A Luxeon dropin would be a good start.

For a little more you could get an O-Sink, add a Luxeon of the right forward voltage, and get more brightness but still with high runtime. I have one of these that 3rd_shift built on a 3C mag, and it is very useful around the house. Mine actually has a side emitter so it gives more flood than spot, but flood is more useful around the house than spot, and I have other lights with good spot.
 

andrewwynn

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 28, 2004
Messages
3,763
Location
Racine, WI USA
If you want runtime and reliability .. a luxeon drop in is not a bad plan.. depends how much you want to do the work yourself of course.

if you can wait.. check out http://bam.rouse.com

If you want a lot of light and not a lot of work.. and want reliability.. i would definitely put an 1166 lamp in you can get a potted one and use the FM or MM 9AA->3D adapter. The 1166 is rated for 11.6V so it's usually underdriven from 9AA but it can deal with the startup peak w/o blowing.

look at my 'hotdriver' project.. http://hotdriver.rouse.com you would be able to 'drop in' the regulator i'm building and pick a bulb that would normally have a problem with blowing out.

With the right batteries you could get a 1331 lamp to run about an hour and that is a stunning light also.

In any event you have definitely come to the right place to find out about flashlights and upgrades.. Just last night i assembled a 100W light in a 2 1/2D custom body made by fivemega. Just about 2500 lujmen out the front.. maybe about 60 TIMES as much light as a stock 3D light.. so the sky is kinda the limit!

I have put a 2 cell mag bulb into a 3D mag and was very surprised at the output. Now, the cells could have been a little low so it didn't blow the bulb but it was very decent improvment in color and brightness (not in the same league as 25W WA lamps) but it was very nice.

-awr
 
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