7 Watt LED

The threads on the Goldston 7 watt LED have been very favorable and at least one person says it compares well with a small HID he owns.
Heat does not seem to be an issue.

From the little I know these are overdriven 3 watt Luxions with a resistor across them.

Has anybody put three of these on one of the trilight bases Modamag and others sell and added a hefty battery?

It would seem a cheap way to a lot of light. Even if it was hard to replace the LED's when they burned out after "only" 500 - 1000 hours I'd be happy with it.

Mike Painter said:

The threads on the Goldston 7 watt LED have been very favorable and at least one person says it compares well with a small HID he owns.
Heat does not seem to be an issue.

From the little I know these are overdriven 3 watt Luxions with a resistor across them.

Has anybody put three of these on one of the trilight bases Modamag and others sell and added a hefty battery?

It would seem a cheap way to a lot of light. Even if it was hard to replace the LED's when they burned out after "only" 500 - 1000 hours I'd be happy with it.

Click to expand...

I don't think the LED from the "Golston 7W" would do any better than a T-bin Lux-III at a similar drive current. Just get three T-bin Lux-III's from Photonfanatic (on sale for $7 each, or $6 each if you get 10+) and you'll be ready to try it: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=122612

I agree but don't know enough about it. E.G. TXOJ from you link is meaningless to me and it is not possible to give it any meaning from the bin codes explained which is the only source I can find.

Mike Painter said:

I agree but don't know enough about it. E.G. TXOJ from you link is meaningless to me and it is not possible to give it any meaning from the bin codes explained which is the only source I can find.

Click to expand...

The first letter is the brightness. T is very good for a Luxeon-III, the slightly brighter U is now fairly available so the price of the T has come down.

The second and third letters (actually the third one is a number) is the tint. X0 is very white, W0 is creamy white.

The last letter is the voltage that the LED prefers. I have to look those up when I need to know the details, but K is the one most commonly suggested for direct drive applications.


The main point of my post is simply that any T or U brightness Luxeon-III (sometimes called a "3 watt" LED) should be as bright at the LED in the "7 watt" Golston (the other 4 watts in the Golston are wasted in a resistor).

The main point of my post is simply that any T or U brightness Luxeon-III (sometimes called a "3 watt" LED) should be as bright at the LED in the "7 watt" Golston (the other 4 watts in the Golston are wasted in a resistor).

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info and I agree with you, I'm just wondering why there are not more of these out there given the desire for brightness over all else. Of course these tend to be walls rather than pinpoints and don't have the desired throw.
Given a choice ( and remembering the horror movies where the guy swings the flashlight around a lot just before...) I'll take a wall 90% of the time.