I stick with three points that i feel need addressing.
2 the wave, a good idea, but not one I feel is that hot for EDC in a working environment, also can be hard on the pants and whats behind the pants. In practice the two finger grip on the hole with the hand shake opening is so fast as to beat most guys trying to find the open button on their automatics. I carry with the tip down and as i reach for the knife, my two fingers automatically grab the hole and with a little jiggle of the hand the knife is out in a flash.
4 edge type, plain edge, always. wavy edges are not the place to start learning about sharpening angles and besides, they really do not work better in any thing EXCEPT some of the new miracle fibre ropes and fabrics. A sharp knife with a plain edge with take down boxes as fast as anything, although I usually use a box cutter or stanley knife just to keep the good knife from hitting staples, glass tape and the like. In my office there is a couple of box cutters by the shipping/receiving desk and a stanley knife on a lanyard just for that purpose.
5 lock type, I really prefer liner locks, I have used one edc for 9 years, never had it come loose when it was not wanted to. For me, a liner lock got its bad reputation with cheap chinese knives that used to show up, a good liner lock from a quality manufacturer will not let you down. Strength in the ultimate sense is to me a non issue, if you are stressing a folder to the point of worrying about the lock strength, then you need to be thinking about an EDC fixed blade. A sharp knife should not need that kind of force. I am a contractor, I use my knife daily in the shop and on the job, and I USE it, but I never ever feel I am cranking on it anywhere near it's breaking point. I have both a Mannix and a Military. I carry a smaller Buck Odyssey which was Bucks attempt to make a spydie knife. I carry the Buck in ATS 34 steel which works great for me. The Mili and the Mannix are great knives, really big brutes. which is why they sit in my grab bag and in my truck. One is a liner lock the other a lock back, I honestly do not think that you can break either one with out a vise and a cheater bar. I have seen one failed endura, which failed when the guy using it was trying to pry a cinch pin out of a lifting rig with it. that is normally a job for a claw hammer or a crowbar. Was it the knifes fault, absolutely not!, but it can happen if you stress the knife all out of proportion to it's designed use.
Also, I find the need to turn a lock back around in my hand to operate the lock as unnecessarily slow. I used to carry a 110 Buck(a 440C version) and an old tool steel Gerber III for years, both worked very well, but once i used a liner lock, it just fit my ergo's much better.
If you are just starting out in knives, consider one or two of the spyderco Byrd series, although made in china, they are surprisingly well made, they also can be had for about 12 to 16 bucks, which would allow you to buy a couple of different styles and find out which you like with out the dread of "oh crap I just spent 60 bucks and i hate it" which from experience really hurts.