Problems using FluPic on modded Arc

Got my nice mod back from George (Bombelman). First run modded with a P4 XR-E, driven by a FluPic 2.1. Utilizes a Cree optic for narrow throw.

Problem is I am dumb about FluPic and how to use it. I have looked up goldserve's charts for different modes for 2.1 but it is Greek to me. At first all I got was strobe, and I turned off/on as quick as I could (twisty) Sometimes low would pop up, sometimes high, sometimes burst, but not in any sequencial order per charts. Now twisting on Arc it may start in low, or it may start in high, no strobe anywhere. UGH!!!

You read each user mode on the chart from top to bottom. If you turn the light on and wait for the flash so it will lock into whatever level you are at, will then start the next time at the yop of the user mode you are in. By the way it steps through that mode you can figure out what mode you are in. Make sense so far?

Ken

One thing that I overlooked as I tried to figure it out...

If the light is in a mode for less than a second, then turned OFF, it will come on again in the mode following the last mode...

You have to leave it ON for at least a second, then when you turn it off, it will reset to the first mode of the set

Assuming it's not in mode 3


I also added to the tutorial thread for setting the user mode levels:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2025516&postcount=94

The FluPic can be mastered!

Good luck :thumbsup:

weedle256 said:

You have to leave it ON for at least a second, then when you turn it off, it will reset to the first mode of the set

Click to expand...

There's actually a single blink which confirms that the one second has passed.

Bullzeyebill said:

Got my nice mod back from George (Bombelman). First run modded with a P4 XR-E, driven by a FluPic 2.1, sitting on top of George's new heatsink. Utilizes a Cree optic for narrow throw.

Problem is I am dumb about FluPic and how to use it. I have looked up goldserve's charts for different modes for 2.1 but it is Greek to me. At first all I got was strobe, and I turned off/on as quick as I could (twisty) Sometimes low would pop up, sometimes high, sometimes burst, but not in any sequencial order per charts. Now twisting on Arc it may start in low, or it may start in high, no strobe anywhere. UGH!!!

Click to expand...

The first thing you need to do is to find out what mode you are in. The easiest way to do this is:-

1. turn on the light and leave it on for more than 1 sec (you will notice a brief blink after 1 sec). This ensures that the next time you turn on the light, it will be at the first level of whatever mode you are in. (I am using the term "level" to denote the step within each of the "modes").

2. turn off the light. take a deep breath and get ready to count.

3. turn on the light (count 1) and very quickly turn it off; back on (count 2), quick off; on (count 3) and quick off etc. It's important that the light doesn't stay ON for more than 1 sec so that you can move to the next level.

4. take note of the count/level at which there is no light when the switch is on. Compare this to the chart to find out which mode you are in. You will notice that, for each mode, the step at which there is no light is different.

5. now that you know which mode you are in, it's easy to select your own custom settings.

QED

Will I did the turn on wait for blink then turn off. Turn back on, counting and one time it was no light at 5. Then tried again fresh and it was 6, tried again and 5, again and one time it was 7 (no light). At no point have I been able to make it strobe, though it strobbed every time when I first got it today.

Bill

I have set the low and high modes, and am working at getting mod 4 going. Am following instructions for blink, double blink, thriple blink, etc, but 4 is sort of elusive. Working to long at this, hours. To bed now.

Bill

I guess using the flupic with a twisty can be a bit of a challenge. I have tried my flupics with both forward clicky (Mag) and reverse clickies (Nuwais) and actually found it much easier to use the reverse clickies. The Mag switch was just too imprecise. Even fitting modamag's tail-clickie didn't help. The reverse clickies of the Nuwais worked great although initially, you have to get used to thinking differently when doing the count.

Well it looks like I have it down. Found Mode four. Had to turn off after five flashes to get mode four. Sort of PIA doing this with twisty, as you have to be very precise. I ended up using a cut down dense foam do-nut I use for my VIP's. This protects the + pad of board, reduces rattle, and accidental activation.

Bill

Bullzeyebill said:

Well it looks like I have it down. Found Mode four. Had to turn off after five flashes to get mode four. Sort of PIA doing this with twisty, as you have to be very precise. I ended up using a cut down dense foam do-nut I use for my VIP's. This protects the + pad of board, reduces rattle, and accidental activation.

Bill

Click to expand...

Don't give up...I was very frustrating for me, at first...but once you get the hang of it, the Flu-Pic is excellent, twisty or click switch...no difference. It's all in the timing.

Bill, the FluPic is pretty easy after the initial play time figuring it out. Twisties are OK with it but like Lexina stated reverse clickies work the best for me with it for really fast & easy one handed operation. Your next FluPic light maybe? :twothumbs

Ken

I just got back my Arc LS and am having fits as well, I will eventually figure it out I hope.

Tim

Just realized that you get DRASTIC differences (no SOS, levels not in correct order or missing all together) out of this Flupic when using an RCR123, Once I put a Primary in it everything made sense.

Tim

Hi, Chaps.

Also the proud owner of one of these Bombelman - ed ARC LS beauties. As I stated somewhere else, I can't get good flupic control with an ARC Kroll clicky and have to use a twisty. But no probs navigating the menus and accessing all the functions. It did take a little bit of time, but it soon becomes second nature. I always leave it on menu five as a default (Low, med, high, nowt, menus).

Still waiting to see how it performs with a RCR2 ( Packed not shipped Bombelman?? :naughty

Much better performance with an RCR 3.7v by the way.

Be lucky...

As I understand, the FluPic is set up for the RCR123, and will not properly function with the CR123, as vin should be higher than vf, however, the Cree's tend to have a low vf, so initially a CR123 may have more voltage than the vf of the emiter. Depends on the individual vf of an led and the voltage of the CR123.

kenster, I am not sure that I want another FluPic, as I got spoiled using my Chameleon's, though I might try one of the piglet's, for constant current regulation, and the FluPic for control.

I like Bombelman's work, and the use of an optic creates an interesting beam, sort of a large circle with most of the lumens in that circle. On burst with a fresh RCR123 it is probably putting out 170 real lumens. This from comparison with my Seoul, Cree, and Lux V lights comparing bounce with lightmeter.

Bill

Did I miss the Bombleman Special, where do I get one?

Tim

Groundhog66 said:

Did I miss the Bombleman Special, where do I get one? Tim

Click to expand...

It is indeed a special build.
Bill got the very same mod as explained here.
There were very few made and this was a full working proto.
The only difference is the emitter (Cree XR-E, not SSC).
There are currently none available, but I do
plan on offering more in the very near future...
(Do remind me every once in a while...)

Drool away guys...