Q's about M@g623

hi, Can anyone help me out on building Mag623? what Mag Body is needed and how many cells are required?

I Noticed that there are many osram 12v 100 watt bulbs, like 64623, 64625 , 62138, and many others. why this particular bulb is being use?

thanks.

Search for 64623, and check it here: Destructive Incan Bulb Tests
Decide on the bulb and the voltage you want to run it on.
Then look at which battery set-ups will provide that voltage - how many emoli or A123, or a pack like the examples here: Custom Battery Packs - Made To Order
The MAG size needed will depend on which batteries you decide to use. If you use emoli or A123, you will need a longer body than you would if you used a quad-bored body with a battery pack.

i think i will try running it with 12-13 2/3A or 4/5A CBP pack. can anyone suggest with one is better?
based on my calculation 12. cells 2/3A will require tri-bore 2D while 4/5 A will require 3D. Am i in the right track? any pros or cons regadring the two?
thanks.

sounds about right, I think D cells are about 60mm, can't remember off hand...

the biggest difference would be capacity of the cells and price...

$2.50 for 1500 mah per cell
$3.75 for 2000 mah per cell

rizky_p said:

i think i will try running it with 12-13 2/3A or 4/5A CBP pack. can anyone suggest with one is better?
based on my calculation 12. cells 2/3A will require tri-bore 2D while 4/5 A will require 3D. Am i in the right track? any pros or cons regadring the two?
thanks.

Click to expand...

If you don't want the hassel of tri-boring, you can also use a 3D and 12 Elite 1700 AAs. They will fit 4-across if you solder your own pack and re-wrap the cells in thinner packing tape.

RoyJ said:

If you don't want the hassel of tri-boring, you can also use a 3D and 12 Elite 1700 AAs. They will fit 4-across if you solder your own pack and re-wrap the cells in thinner packing tape.

Click to expand...

That is what i looking for, i was about to ask whether Elite 1700 will fit 4 across without bore. Since i have to bore Mag Tube just to fit Sanyo 2700 4 across in my previous M@g5Cree project. I whink i'll opt for Elite AA, i was considering 2/3A and 4/5A because Elite AA not i stock. I asked Mike at CBP it might be in stock in 2 weeks. I think i will wait for Elite AA since i dont have to bore my Mag Tube. Boring a Mag Tube cost 14USD at my local mill shop..

thanks.

Older D size mags without D in the serial number have larger ID as do newer nonblack color mags.
jim

jimjones3630 said:

Older D size mags without D in the serial number have larger ID as do newer nonblack color mags.
jim

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so Jim will 4 elite 1700 AA across fits inside newer black MagD with D in front?

Rizky_p,

I don't know. I can tell you 4 eneloops, 15.5mm by my mic, fit in a new red D size barely. It's a tight fit but they go in.
jim

rizky_p said:

so Jim will 4 elite 1700 AA across fits inside newer black MagD with D in front?

Click to expand...

I like the tri-bored 2D with 13 2/3A cell pack at 15.6V. You'll be running it without a tailcap spring and your have to remove the anodizing from the inside of the tailcap where the negative end of the pack contacts it. A Dremel with sanding disk works fine. The 13th cell really turns the 623 into a beast. LuxLuthor makes the battery packs: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/176185

Here are the tri-bores: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156080

Patriot36 said:

I like the tri-bored 2D with 13 2/3A cell pack at 15.6V. You'll be running it without a tailcap spring and your have to remove the anodizing from the inside of the tailcap where the negative end of the pack contacts it. A Dremel with sanding disk works fine. The 13th cell really turns the 623 into a beast. LuxLuthor makes the battery packs: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/176185

Here are the tri-bores: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156080

Click to expand...

i'll go for 2D with 2/3A cells then
13 cells to 623 bulb, is it safe without a soft-start?

rizky_p said:

i'll go for 2D with 2/3A cells then
13 cells to 623 bulb, is it safe without a soft-start?

Click to expand...

I really like the idea of using the AW D driver for this build. 3 levels would make it really useful on low, blazing on medium, and giggle-inducing on high. Ad a nice FM 3" head, and you've got yourself quite a light!
I think I'll order the pieces I need and build one myself! It would be the second 3 stage super-light, with the first not even here yet!

I am enjoying the info on the 623's, getting my learn on.
What is the expected run time of one of these builds?
With all the different batteries that are available, should be quite a choice.

Thanks

October_V said:

I am enjoying the info on the 623's, getting my learn on.
What is the expected run time of one of these builds?
With all the different batteries that are available, should be quite a choice.

Thanks

Click to expand...

With an approximate 10 amp draw, I would guess your looking in the area of ten minutes of fun.:huh:

Emoli 2670mah/10000x60=16 or so min.
AA 1700mah/10000x60= 10 min.

the actual brightness will vary during the runtime with flater discharge batteries you get less varying levels of light during the run. Nimh batteries typically will drop down and the light is yellowish color for last ???15-25% of the run.

jim

TKO said:

With an approximate 10 amp draw, I would guess your looking in the area of ten minutes of fun.:huh:

Click to expand...

I've got exactly that setup -- a M@g623 2D tribore, 13 2/3A pack from Lux, AW D driver -- and I'm extremely happy with it. The three levels are nice to have, and with the soft start you can run the bulb hot off the charger without flashing. But expect less than 10 minutes useful runtime on high, and noticeable dimming at the end of the run.

jimjones3630 said:

Emoli 2670mah/10000x60=16 or so min.
AA 1700mah/10000x60= 10 min.

Click to expand...

ah. There you have it. 50% more runtime and flatter discharge rate too.
Where would you estimate the A123's to be, compared to that?

If you haven't already, check this parallel thread running about the same bulb setup. With direct drive you can run the Emoli's down too low and kill them dead...this is one of the issues the RC guys have about them, in comparison to the lower voltage per cell and higher Amp output A123's.

You also need to have a way to charge Emolis, and occasionally check to see if they need to be balanced (not as big of a concern with Emoli & A123, but still a wise step).

You need to get the right voltage. 4 x Emoli charged to 4.15V = 16.6V and 13 x NiMH charged up to 1.45V = 18.85V. Obviously, as NiMH drop down to 13 x 1.2V = 15.6V, output will wane....so there are tradeoffs.

From my experience with buying used Emoli and A123 cells in various conditions of use/abuse, some of which had to be discarded, I would recommend using new V28 Milwaukee pack cells from an Amazon link like this.

It's all a question of how you want to start out, and how much you want to do yourself.

A123 cells I use from Dewalt 36v battery paks have a new charger program that revives them when discharged below 2v. I think they are a tuffer battery than emoli.

This thread topic is M@g623 so not to hijack or get off on a tangent down the rabbit hole and through the woods.

A123 cells from Dewalt 36v paks is 2300/10000x60=13.8min. And has a flatter discharge than emoli in mine and other members experience. So flat that it is easy to discharge below 2v. It holds 3.3v up untill almost the end then drops like a rock to 2v. My experience is no problem to recharge, just need to pay attention to how bright the light is and when starts to diminish then it is time to recharge.
jim

cat said:

ah. There you have it. 50% more runtime and flatter discharge rate too.
Where would you estimate the A123's to be, compared to that?

Click to expand...

jimjones3630 said:

A123 cells I use from Milwaukee 36v battery paks have a new charger program that revives them when discharged below 2v. I think they are a tuffer battery than emoli.

This thread topic is M@g623 so not to hijack or get off on a tangent down the rabbit hole and through the woods.

A123 cells from Milwaukee 36v paks is 2300/10000x60=13.8min. And has a flatter discharge than emoli in mine and other members experience. So flat that it is easy to discharge below 2v. It holds 3.3v up untill almost the end then drops like a rock to 2v. My experience is no problem to recharge, just need to pay attention to how bright the light is and when starts to diminish then it is time to recharge.
jim

Click to expand...

Do mean DeWalt?