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Custom Worklight Build

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
A CPF'er has requested a custom worklight for use in his modding activities. The light would be attached to a flexible gooseneck arm and used to illuminate objects being worked on.

The requirements presented were:

1/4-20 socket built in
Detachable for everyday carry
Multiple levels--mini-FluPIC
CR2 battery
Twisty, due to socket
Reflector, stippled Khatod
Seoul P4 LED
Possible Delrin slip-on diffuser
O-Ring sealed
Exterior designed to hide fingerprints
Possibly EN plated

First, I modeled the light in SolidWorks--here's a section view (note: converter module was for a standard .55" converter, not the mini FluPIC):

AssemblyHiddenLinesShowing.jpg


To address the issue of hiding fingerprints, I decided to try a knurled piece, but knurling alone is a tad boring, so I decided to segment the light, ala Blocky Boy, and then to add a few dimples. I tried a test piece in brass first:

BrassBB3.jpg


The client liked that, so a full length piece of 6061AL was knurled:

CompletedKnurl.jpg


That was split into two pieces and then blocked and dimpled, as well as bored for the battery, reflector, lens, etc., and threaded. Here is one piece being segmented:

Blocking.jpg


The head section was segmented first, then the battery tube which had previously been knurled was screwed into the head. At that point, the lines for the battery tube could now be located so that the segments would mate when the two pieces were screwed together:

Screwed-together.jpg


Here's the light, almost done, except for parting off the little section of knurling showing at the bottom:

MatedPartsAlmostDone200.jpg


The next major step will be to install the tripod socket insert:

TripodSocket.jpg


Why not just make some threads for the socket in the aluminum itself? Probably would be fine for something that would just be attached once and then stay in place, but the client wants to be able to remove the light and use it as a flashlight also, so multiple mountings and dismountings would wear away the soft threads of aluminum. This insert is made of stainless steel. The pins are driven into place when the socket had been inserted into the light, thus locking it in place and preventing any twisting. Should last for a lifetime--well, perhaps my lifetime. :D
 
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jch79

**Do Not Feed The Vegan**,
Joined
May 2, 2006
Messages
3,661
Location
On the asphalt.
:drool: :rock: :wave:

She's a beauty, Fred! :clap:

I'll be interested to see how the "pins" in the tripod socket get pounded in... won't they have to be pounded in right through the Al threads?

:twothumbs john
 

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
John,

Yes, the pins do cut into the threads, forcing them to the sides and thus tightening the insert fairly well. Should prevent the insert from ever loosening, but there is a technique that allows one to drill out the insert and remove everything.
 
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cmacclel

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
5,018
Location
Sweden
Why not use a Heli-Coil?? The Insert though would work fine is a little overkill don't you think? Also the insert leaves more room to mess up :)

Mac
 

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
Mac,

Almost all high-end cameras use stainless steel inserts, so that's why I went that route. After a little fiddling with my procedure, installing the insert was no problem.

I've never seen a heli-coil, so I am unfamiliar with them. I'll have to check them out.
 
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