Homemade camping/emergency light.

1 what

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 6, 2007
Messages
617
Location
Australia
As an occasional camper I've often thought that there wasn't a reasonable "camping lantern" available. Plenty of little (and not so little) designs that have the same basic shape as liquid fuel models but less output. Many of them are flimsy or fragile and hard to pack due to their shape…….The task was to design a better camping lantern/emergency light.

Desired characteristics:
Robust with no glass or plastic to break. (Dare I say it… "Built like a tank").
Not able to be easily knocked over or if knockedover they should bounce.
Water resistant or water proof.
A convenient shape to pack and not too large.
Magnetic base to "stick" to suitable surfaces. Capacity to be hung overhead as a ceiling light with light directed downwards.
Light output should be diffused with no blinding hot spot.
Light intensity needs to be enough to be useful but not so bright that it completely destroys night vision. Higher light output should be available if required.
Long runtime on one set of batteries.
Able to use primary or rechargeable cells.
A foolproof lock-out switch to prevent accidental discharge due to any "rough and tumble" during transit.
Overall it should be something like a glo toob on steroids!

I'm sure this light exists somewhere but since I couldn't find it I decided to make my own (A great excuse for a new project).

Components:
One di-cast 9x12cm waterproof metal box.
One P7 led.
2 homemade 18650 battery holders. (also fit 2x123's)
1 Kai 3 level P7 driver.
Switches for on/off, lockout and mode change.
Acrylic sheet to make a diffuser.
Epoxy – thermal and general purpose.

The light:

finishedlightfk8.jpg


And inside:

insidety6.jpg


Run times on 18650 (x2);

About 1 hour on high, 2 hours on med and ?? 20 hours on low (haven't been able to time it on low yet).

I'll post some outdoor beam shots in the next few days.

EDIT 27 Aug 08.

Run time on low was just over 10 hours which supports the data that the driver board is less efficent on the lower output settings.
 
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Bimmerboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
2,073
Location
Long Island, NY
These kinds of mods are every bit as much fun for me as the super-clean, high end items, sometimes more (EDIT: actually, many times).

I love every aspect of this thing! Great build, 1 what!

Please give us more detail, and/or pics regarding the top end... heatsinking, how everything's mounted, etc.
 

wquiles

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,459
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
These kinds of mods are every bit as much fun for me as the super-clean, high end items, sometimes more (EDIT: actually, many times).

I love every aspect of this thing! Great build, 1 what!

Please give us more detail, and/or pics regarding the top end... heatsinking, how everything's mounted, etc.

+1 - very interesting build!
 

1 what

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 6, 2007
Messages
617
Location
Australia
Thanks guys. All heat generating components (LED + Driver) are thermal epoxied to the metal box which acts as a heatsink. The base of the LED was given a preliminary thin coat of epoxy to insulate it since it's connected to the + supply to the LED. The Driver was heatsinked to the box as detailed in #57 of this earlier post:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2594847#post2594847

The diffuser is made from 5 layers of 2mm acrylic. There are 3 solid layers and 2 spacer layers with large holes in the centre. The solid layers have been "frosted" with fine sandpaper and the spacers allow maximum diffusion. The acrylic has been bonded using specialized acrylic cement. The base sheet of acrylic has silver industrial insulation bonded to it using clear epoxy to maximize internal reflexions.
layoutct8.jpg

The battery holders are made from acrylic tube with plugs bonded into the bottoms and screw tops from softdrink bottles bonded onto the tops (the diameters work out just fine and fit 18650's and 123's perfectly). The "screw on tops" for the battery tubes have had copper tape inserted as internal contacts and conductors. Metal tops would have been much nicer but I don't have access to a machine shop. The ones I made are waterproof and utilize the "original" soft drink bottle seals.

The base of the dicast box has 2cm rare earth magnets for attachment to suitable surfaces and I can also use these with a couple of small metal rings to hang the light on an overhead rope.

I'm still thinking about how to best show "beamshots" as the diffuser works well and there is no obvious hotspot to show. The "low" (40L) setting is more than adequate for general purpose use in a tent or around a campsight.
 
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SafetyBob

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
766
Location
Yukon, Oklahoma
1 What, excellent project. The bad part is that I have some really hard core campers on the wife's side. Hopefully they won't see this otherwise I will be copy catting yours!!

OK, actually, this is a wonderful project for tornado land that I live in. I think I know what this years "special" Christmas present might be....have to give this some thought.

Great idea!! Now, tell us how you are going to improve the next one you build?

Bob E.
 

nein166

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 16, 2006
Messages
1,575
Location
New York
Awesome Build! I now know what I'll be doing with the extra Emoli Cells I harvested will be used in.
Last time I went camping my water jug( big rectangular water container with side spout) had a light running a Seoul P4 at 1A sitting on it for area light at the table.
I really wanted to justify spending the money on a Pelican 9430.
Now I have the inspiration to make my own.
 
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