How 'waterproof' is the Nitecore D10?

I'm wondering... of course I expect them to be dunk-proof, but on their website and on 4sevens they state that the light is waterproof to IPX8 standard. BUT, according to Wikipedia:

The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer.
NOTE: Normally, this will mean that the equipment is hermetically sealed. However, with certain types of equipment, it can mean that water can enter but only in such a manner that produces no harmful effects.

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And of course no details have been specified.... neither about the max depth nor the maximum allowable time.

So, can I use the D10 as divelight, or will it merely be dunk-proof?


(P.S., I'm impatiently waiting while my D10 travels over the atlantic ocean)

DEFINITELY not a dive light. IPX-8 is anything more than IPX-7, which is 1m for 30 minutes.

It's dunkable only.

Don't use the piston while submerged!

Sgt. LED said:

Don't use the piston while submerged!

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Why not? There's an o-ring on the piston itself (inside the body).

Because when you go underwater, pressure builds around the light. Even though there is an o-ring there, if you are more than a foot deep or so, it may not be sufficient to keep back the pressurized water. water will work its way in with repeated twists or presses.

And remember if you are going to subject it to submarine status often,make sure all the o-rings are maintained and lubed

TITAN1833 said:

And remember if you are going to subject it to submarine status often,make sure all the o-rings are maintained and lubed

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Just to be clear, I can't imagine using ANY of my lights as dive lights, I figure that's why you call them DIVE lights in the first place. I imagine o-ring maintenance and lubrication is meant to guard against momentary accidents and drops, not sustained underwater usage.

jblackwood said:

I imagine o-ring maintenance and lubrication is meant to guard against momentary accidents and drops, not sustained underwater usage.

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Well both really as o-rings degrade over time, so even so called dive lights would need to be maintained unless they are rechargeable and sealed for life as in the wiseled 1500

TITAN1833 said:

Well both really as o-rings degrade over time so even so called dive lights would need to be maintained unless they are rechargeable and sealed for life as in the wiseled 1500

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I totally agree. I just think using any of these lights, which aren't designed to be water resistant per se (nothing's water proof) as dive lights is going to lead to tears. :mecry:

jblackwood said:

I totally agree. I just think using any of these lights, which aren't designed to be water resistant per se (nothing's water proof) as dive lights is going to lead to tears. :mecry:

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Yes you make a good point,I just like to call them splash proof and maybe dunkable with caution lights


I remembered once having a tag heuer 6000 series it was rated 660 feet,well after a couple of years I went swimming in the sea and to my horror when I came to shore I noticed little fishes swimming amongst the hands,so you see why I say with caution.


Well ok there were no fishes but I think you can see my point.

TITAN1833 said:

Yes you make a good point,I just like to call them splash proof and maybe dunkable with caution lights


I remembered once having a tag heuer 6000 series it was rated 660 feet,well after a couple of years I went swimming in the sea and to my horror when I came to shore I noticed little fishes swimming amongst the hands,so you see why I say with caution.


Well ok there were no fishes but I think you can see my point.

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Though I've never made it a priority to get a Tag Heuer (I hate the phrase "can't afford") I've lost many a watch that same way, all when I was much younger and watches were actually called waterproof instead of water resistant to XYZ depth.

There's some guy that uses a P1 as a backup dive light. I imagine it's got a seriously big O ring and a lot of lube, though!

Pulling that light open (after unscrewing) must require a lot of effort if he's replaced the stock o-ring with a thicker one.

jblackwood said:

Though I've never made it a priority to get a Tag Heuer (I hate the phrase "can't afford") I've lost many a watch that same way, all when I was much younger and watches were actually called waterproof instead of water resistant to XYZ depth.

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you are supposed to change the gasket's and lubricate all seals every year even if you only wear it in the shower as per the user manual


i would not recommend turning any light on/off submerged, but it shoudl be ok to the specified depth, for the specified length of time while static.

the original PD design withstood 120' water pressure i don't see why this one wouldn't be somewhat waterprood.

The Sun said:

you are supposed to change the gasket's and lubricate all seals every year even if you only wear it in the shower as per the user manual


i would not recommend turning any light on/off submerged, but it shoudl be ok to the specified depth, for the specified length of time while static.

the original PD design withstood 120' water pressure i don't see why this one wouldn't be somewhat waterprood.

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However, as you mentioned, that is only a static rating. Once you play around with the PD while underwater, you risk water leaking. '

Quick story... I have personally tested my Jil Intelli, G&P R500, Streamlight Stinger, Olight M20, Nitecore Extreme, and a handful of other guys in the shower... turning them on and off and exposing every angle to water to simulate rain.
I also took every light and dunked it under about a foot of water and rotated switches, etc.
The only lights I have ever gotten to leak at all were a Riverrock 2AA (around the switch)... I saw a bubble or two and stopped and a minimag which ended up having a cracked Oring... oooo yea... that flashlight I built from an old vacuum cleaner which had no orings I understand I overapply the lube (as you all pointed out on my Fenix P3D thread), however, if there is lube in the threads, water has a much tougher time getting in, especially because NyroGel is not water soluable.

I would still not trust any of these lights as "dive lights" (although the Nitecore with the giant Oring or the M20 with a push switch and 2 orings at other openings would probably do fine for a little while), however, I need to know the lights will do fine in a little bad weather.

I do hope that it withstands a shower/heavy rain while still being able to actuate the piston. Not much use in a light which can't be turned on and off when it's raining, especially if marketed as IPX8.

I guess I'll send 4sevens a mail, the statement 'waterproof to ipx8 standards' is just to vague to be of any use.

Vague how? You know it is at least 1m for 30 minutes, if not more.

Has anyone done a run time test,I'm sure it could go 2,3,4hrs@1m :laughing:

TITAN1833 said:

Has anyone done a run time test,I'm sure it could go 2,3,4hrs@1m :laughing:

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You wouldn't worry about the lights overheating on max. In fact, that is the easiest way to do a runtime on a light which quickly overheats

Marduke said:

Vague how? You know it is at least 1m for 30 minutes, if not more.

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Well, it could be 1.5m for 30min, or 1m for 45min, or 20m for 6h. And it's either with or without piston pressed...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code said:

The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer.

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If the specs clearly say that the manufacturer has to specify the exact conditions and he doesn't... that's what I'd call vague