See here for a nice yellow pointer tutorial:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/246549
Here are some build tips for my version of the 7 color build first shown by rog8811 using this great 'adjustable sled mount/heatsink' kit from sightfx...
Now named The White Fusion Kit! (good name Dave!)
Here are just a few tips, and also some good information on power settings for a good color blend. If you are considering this build, you may find some of this information useful!
(this build is just the 7 colors, not the spiro)
Using only PHR optics! I found that the turning mirror from the PHR sled is better than the turning mirror form the PS3 sled. So for a cheap and easier build, the PHR splitter cube and turning mirror can give plenty of power!
This one is 358mW's... (White beam)
See here for settings on a low power version of this build: My 7 Color Laser In Clear Enclosure...
Housed in a translucent, scratch resistant polycarbonate enclosure...
Here is a link to some pictures of some great full length beam shots! (no smoke or fog, just the beam in the night sky with the camera on 'auto exposure')
You will be very happy with this build if you can get perfect beam alignment... (and power/color blend)
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/b...-sled-mount-heatsinks-41942-4.html#post578598
If it was not for this kit from sightfx, it would be very difficult to get the kind of alignment needed for those kind of 'full length' beam shots.
The White Fusion Kit! from sightfx...
* The White Fusion Kit!:
Custom 7 Color DIY Laser Kit
* Translucent polycarbonate enclosure:
Digi-Key - HM959-ND (Hammond Manufacturing - 1591CTCL)
* Switches used:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15879
* Green Module:
40mW to 50mW Green laser modules
* FlexDrives:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_d..._FlexDrive.php
* 405-G-1 Glass Lens Modification:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-405-g-1-glass-lens-mod-28-increase-vs-aixiz-22497.html
First, the sled:
Custom adjustable sled mount/heatsinks:
I must say that this kit from sightfx is awesome! Well worth the money. (sled included)
I have a couple pictures of the initial mounting to the sled:
I really like the threaded mounting design with the blots drilled through the center.
I will also mention the obvious, that this kit/build, is the type of thing that will need DIY 'tweaking' no matter what. (sled trimming, drilling, etc...) As seen in my pictures, I have noted a couple of things that I did for my mounting.
This kit from sightfx makes...
* Beam/dot alignment and adjustment easy.
* Turning the modules for best power through the polarized cube very easy.
* Diode replacement easy if necessary.
Really a great design. Very small too!
Turning mirror:
This is a 'touchy' part of this build. You will want the green module installed, and at least one of the other lasers installed before you do the final positioning of the turning mirror. (I recommend using the red laser, because the blu-ray beam seems wider. Or at least that is how our eyes perceive it)
Have the adjustment screws all the way tight, and then back them off about 1/2 turn. That way you will have the spring tension as tight as possible, and still have some room for adjustment.
Also have your lasers rotated for best power through the optics.
You must get the mirror adjusted so that you have beam alignment at aperture. (along with dot alignment as close as possible)
Then later you can adjust the mounts for dot alignment at distance...
Once you have the turning mirror adjusted and glued in place properly, you then have to protect it...
The mirror will stick up out of the sled a little.
My method to cover it, is to just use the stock sled cover, with a slot cut in it for the turning mirror to stick through. Then cut a piece of similar material from a different sled, and use a couple of pieces of double sided tape to 'bridge over' the mirror with the cut piece.
This is one way to protect it, which is very easy. And not a lot of work, but you must protect the mirror.
Initial testing:
Here you can see a nice turquoise beam using my high quality beam alignment tool. (Pepsi bottle with a plastic flashlight lens in the cap)
This highly sophisticated tool
, will hold the smoke from a single match for about an hour or so.
I have found that beam alignment at aperture, (by adjusting the turning mirror) is an important first step. Later, you can do fine adjustments with these mounts for dot alignment at distance.
Power measured after sled optics:
Blu-ray - 174mW's (GGW 6X/185mA's/405-G-1)
Green - 20mW's
This initial test for color blend seems good, but I have more testing to do!
Heatsinking for blu-ray and red will be plenty. (IMO) But I'm going to put another small heatsink on the green module at the base. (where the diode is)
Again, I must say that I love this kit from sightfx!
Settings and color/power blend:
I finished my testing and module placement.
I built a 'test switch assembly' with battery holders specifically for testing and initial alignment. (you need something like this for this build)
I have recorded my settings for what I feel is a really good color blend. You should be able to use this information as a reference point for getting an idea of what power you want to go for...
All that is left now, is to mount this little gem in a clear enclosure so it's beauty can be seen inside and out!
Settings:
Green: (50mW O-like/Stock driver/3.0 volt X 2 in parallel) - 39mW's after sled.
Red: (LPC/FlexDrive/AR acrylic/380mA's) - 145mW's after sled.
Blu-ray: (GGW 6X/FlexDrive/405-G-1/185mA's) - 174mW's after sled.
Color/power blend:
Yellow - 184mW's
Magenta - 319mW's
Turquoise - 213mW's
White - 358mW's
Beam Shots: (smoke in a bottle)
sightfx, your kit is a work of art!
Mounting:
I went with a simple 'foot' or platform to mount the assembly onto... (this will make it easy to mount into an enclosure)
Note: The only thing touching the mount, is some double sided tape to the washers, which of course are connected to the sled. (and one other spot on the sled cover plate) So the adjustable heatsinks/modules, do not have any extra pressure on them except for their own weight. This is important, because the alignment is so critical...
The sled cover plate that is covering the optics, can still be removed if necessary.
This is an easy method, and still offers some shock resistance...
I hope than some will find this information useful!
Jay
P.S. I have the focus set for best visual dot at 75'. Even with this 'long distance focus', it will easily light matches at 1'. But I have not done any other burn tests. Just wanted to see if it would light matches. It is easy with Magenta or white.
More details:
Just a couple of more details about this build...
* The clear acrylic battery tubes started out as 3/4" O.D. X 5/8" I.D. Then I used a 17mm straight flute reamer on the lathe to get the right fit for the CR123 batteries. I have a tube of some clear glue that is specifically made for acrylic. Just a little holds very strong for placement. I drilled tiny holes at the very bottom of the tubes for the negative wires to go through.
* Notice the copper washers have a drilled out center area that is fit for the positive button on the batteries. This is not completely necessary, but I did it so that the batteries will be held more stable and not slip off the washer to put undue pressure against my 'tube holders'.
* A couple of the battery holder tubes are color coded for easy battery recognition/replacement. Switches are also color coded...
This high powered configuration is about $400 dollars in just parts. It's my favorite build so far!
Again, great kit from sightfx!!!
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/246549
Here are some build tips for my version of the 7 color build first shown by rog8811 using this great 'adjustable sled mount/heatsink' kit from sightfx...
Now named The White Fusion Kit! (good name Dave!)
Here are just a few tips, and also some good information on power settings for a good color blend. If you are considering this build, you may find some of this information useful!
Using only PHR optics! I found that the turning mirror from the PHR sled is better than the turning mirror form the PS3 sled. So for a cheap and easier build, the PHR splitter cube and turning mirror can give plenty of power!
This one is 358mW's... (White beam)
See here for settings on a low power version of this build: My 7 Color Laser In Clear Enclosure...
Housed in a translucent, scratch resistant polycarbonate enclosure...
Here is a link to some pictures of some great full length beam shots! (no smoke or fog, just the beam in the night sky with the camera on 'auto exposure')
You will be very happy with this build if you can get perfect beam alignment... (and power/color blend)
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/b...-sled-mount-heatsinks-41942-4.html#post578598
If it was not for this kit from sightfx, it would be very difficult to get the kind of alignment needed for those kind of 'full length' beam shots.
The White Fusion Kit! from sightfx...
* The White Fusion Kit!:
Custom 7 Color DIY Laser Kit
* Translucent polycarbonate enclosure:
Digi-Key - HM959-ND (Hammond Manufacturing - 1591CTCL)
* Switches used:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15879
* Green Module:
40mW to 50mW Green laser modules
* FlexDrives:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_d..._FlexDrive.php
* 405-G-1 Glass Lens Modification:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-405-g-1-glass-lens-mod-28-increase-vs-aixiz-22497.html
First, the sled:
Custom adjustable sled mount/heatsinks:
I must say that this kit from sightfx is awesome! Well worth the money. (sled included)
I have a couple pictures of the initial mounting to the sled:
I really like the threaded mounting design with the blots drilled through the center.
I will also mention the obvious, that this kit/build, is the type of thing that will need DIY 'tweaking' no matter what. (sled trimming, drilling, etc...) As seen in my pictures, I have noted a couple of things that I did for my mounting.
This kit from sightfx makes...
* Beam/dot alignment and adjustment easy.
* Turning the modules for best power through the polarized cube very easy.
* Diode replacement easy if necessary.
Really a great design. Very small too!
Turning mirror:
This is a 'touchy' part of this build. You will want the green module installed, and at least one of the other lasers installed before you do the final positioning of the turning mirror. (I recommend using the red laser, because the blu-ray beam seems wider. Or at least that is how our eyes perceive it)
Have the adjustment screws all the way tight, and then back them off about 1/2 turn. That way you will have the spring tension as tight as possible, and still have some room for adjustment.
Also have your lasers rotated for best power through the optics.
You must get the mirror adjusted so that you have beam alignment at aperture. (along with dot alignment as close as possible)
Then later you can adjust the mounts for dot alignment at distance...
Once you have the turning mirror adjusted and glued in place properly, you then have to protect it...
The mirror will stick up out of the sled a little.
My method to cover it, is to just use the stock sled cover, with a slot cut in it for the turning mirror to stick through. Then cut a piece of similar material from a different sled, and use a couple of pieces of double sided tape to 'bridge over' the mirror with the cut piece.
This is one way to protect it, which is very easy. And not a lot of work, but you must protect the mirror.
Initial testing:
Here you can see a nice turquoise beam using my high quality beam alignment tool. (Pepsi bottle with a plastic flashlight lens in the cap)
This highly sophisticated tool
I have found that beam alignment at aperture, (by adjusting the turning mirror) is an important first step. Later, you can do fine adjustments with these mounts for dot alignment at distance.
Power measured after sled optics:
Blu-ray - 174mW's (GGW 6X/185mA's/405-G-1)
Green - 20mW's
This initial test for color blend seems good, but I have more testing to do!
Heatsinking for blu-ray and red will be plenty. (IMO) But I'm going to put another small heatsink on the green module at the base. (where the diode is)
Again, I must say that I love this kit from sightfx!
Settings and color/power blend:
I finished my testing and module placement.
I built a 'test switch assembly' with battery holders specifically for testing and initial alignment. (you need something like this for this build)
I have recorded my settings for what I feel is a really good color blend. You should be able to use this information as a reference point for getting an idea of what power you want to go for...
All that is left now, is to mount this little gem in a clear enclosure so it's beauty can be seen inside and out!
Settings:
Green: (50mW O-like/Stock driver/3.0 volt X 2 in parallel) - 39mW's after sled.
Red: (LPC/FlexDrive/AR acrylic/380mA's) - 145mW's after sled.
Blu-ray: (GGW 6X/FlexDrive/405-G-1/185mA's) - 174mW's after sled.
Color/power blend:
Yellow - 184mW's
Magenta - 319mW's
Turquoise - 213mW's
White - 358mW's
Beam Shots: (smoke in a bottle)
sightfx, your kit is a work of art!
Mounting:
I went with a simple 'foot' or platform to mount the assembly onto... (this will make it easy to mount into an enclosure)
Note: The only thing touching the mount, is some double sided tape to the washers, which of course are connected to the sled. (and one other spot on the sled cover plate) So the adjustable heatsinks/modules, do not have any extra pressure on them except for their own weight. This is important, because the alignment is so critical...
The sled cover plate that is covering the optics, can still be removed if necessary.
I hope than some will find this information useful!
Jay
P.S. I have the focus set for best visual dot at 75'. Even with this 'long distance focus', it will easily light matches at 1'. But I have not done any other burn tests. Just wanted to see if it would light matches. It is easy with Magenta or white.
More details:
Just a couple of more details about this build...
* The clear acrylic battery tubes started out as 3/4" O.D. X 5/8" I.D. Then I used a 17mm straight flute reamer on the lathe to get the right fit for the CR123 batteries. I have a tube of some clear glue that is specifically made for acrylic. Just a little holds very strong for placement. I drilled tiny holes at the very bottom of the tubes for the negative wires to go through.
* Notice the copper washers have a drilled out center area that is fit for the positive button on the batteries. This is not completely necessary, but I did it so that the batteries will be held more stable and not slip off the washer to put undue pressure against my 'tube holders'.
* A couple of the battery holder tubes are color coded for easy battery recognition/replacement. Switches are also color coded...
This high powered configuration is about $400 dollars in just parts. It's my favorite build so far!
Again, great kit from sightfx!!!
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