Least likely to leak batteries?

subwoofer

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 5, 2010
Messages
2,501
Location
Hove, UK
I am looking to install batteries in several torches, some of which will be used regularly and some as backup lights which will only be used in an emergency.

The choices I have are Alkaline, Lithium primaries (such as Energiser Lithium), Li-ion, Ni-Mh and LSD NiMh.

Having been the victim of leaking batteries I want to if possible eliminate the chance of this happening. I have had Alkalines, Ni-Cd and Lithium button cells leak on me, but do not have long term experience of other Lithium primaries, Li-ion or Ni-Mh batteries.

Alkaline batteries have mostly been OK, if you make sure you don't go past the date, but if you have a battery dated 2016 but you have mostly or discharged it and leave it for a year or two (still well within the date), will it be safe, or could it leak?

There is also the possibility that if the torch has been switched on (even accidentally), the battery becomes fully depleted and the switch is left on, will this make any of these batteries leak?

Has anyone had an energiser Lithium leak?

My plan so far is to use:
Either Energiser Lithium or LSD Ni-Mh (with a yearly discharge/recharge) in my key backup torches.

In my general use torches I would go for a mixture or Li-ion and LSD Ni-Mh

As for Alkaline batteries I think I will now keep them out of the torch unless it is going to be used, so a backup torch will be left with its batteries out until it is needed. This makes it easier to check the date and ensures the torch cannot be accidentally switched on.

Any other comments or advice is welcomed.
 

Ray_of_Light

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 11, 2003
Messages
1,151
Location
West Midlands, U.K.
I think your plan of using Energizer lithium and Ni-MH LSD is perfect.

I never had a Energizer LiFeS battery leak in last ten years. Conversely, I can tell you that all post-ban (1990) alkalines will leak at a certain point, and this event is less likely to happen within the usable date printed on them.
Due to the vast collection of lights, which includes D, C, springtop and other exotic batteries, I'm in trouble keeping them reliably fed. From time to time, there are moments for unforeseen funerals, like my beloved Solitaire last week. Anyway I'm slowly acquiring LSD D and C sizes, having already replaced most of the alkaline AA with "cheap and good" Varta LSDs (the same are labeled Ray-O-Vac in the US). Giving precedence to radios, though.

CR123 lights are no problem as long as you fed them with "Made in Usa" cells. Five years ago I bought a truckload of $1 Made in China 123s, but I had a series of problem with them, including leakage (when used them with incandescents) and thermal runaway; they proved to have a storage life of 2 yrs instead of the supposed 10 yrs - and now I am free from those. Keep in mind that CR123 leaks some very nasty chemicals (nitromethane et similia) and it is a very unbalanced risk - just to save some pennies. The chemicals resulting from the reaction with copper and lead are explosive, as well documented somewhere else on CPF.

I had only one occurance of a Duracell 123 cell leaking in my Arc-LS, with no conseguences - luckily. The problem, I learnt later, was caused from the fact that the DL123 fall on the floor on its nip, while I was installing it in the light.

Never had a leakage from Lithium-Ion cells installed in my lights. in self-built packs, yes, but only for unbalance causes, which in turn caused overcharge of some cells. I didn't had really damaging leaks, it was the electrolyte evaporating due to the rupture of the overpressure diaphragm. The venting of both primary and secondary Li-Ions happens only under conditions of charge abuse, and doesn't really apply to our light in storage on the shelfs.

Never had any leakage from LSD NiMH in the last four years, and only one occurance in a standard Energizer greentop AA Ni-MH. Ni-MH don't built internal pressure unless overcharged, while Ni-CD are designed to work under pressure for the water reforming cycle. As matter of fact, I had some Ni-CD leaking, both in storage and under continuous trickle charge in black-out lights.

Many of my lights uses lead-acid battery. I had some leaks from chinese VRLA, and never from good lead-calcium FIAMM or Sonnenschein batteries, or wound Cyclon cells.

Never had Lithium coin cell leaking. Alkaline button cells - yes, but the damage were usually limited. Silver oxide button cell, never (but they still contain mercury, so no honour).

Li-Poly are a different story. Luckily, I have only one Li-Poly light, but the future may be different. Li-Poly get puffed often, when you leave them discharged and then recharge. I had many problems with some MP3 players (of known brands), which occasionally bulged and leaked. Defective Li-Poly is a common occurrance in my experience, mainly because some unscrupoulous manufacturer flooded the market with sub-par batteries. They leaks methyl ethers, which are flammable and corrodes styrene-based plastics.

My observation sample sizes are: Alkaline, 1000; Ni-MH, 200; CR123 primary, 200; Ni-CD, 50; LiFeS, 50. Lithium coin, 100; Alkaline button, 100.

Regards

Anthony
 

Battery Guy

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
807
Location
Portland, Oregon
I am looking to install batteries in several torches, some of which will be used regularly and some as backup lights which will only be used in an emergency.

The choices I have are Alkaline, Lithium primaries (such as Energiser Lithium), Li-ion, Ni-Mh and LSD NiMh.

Keep in mind that you can probably make ANY battery leak if you abuse or misuse it. That being said...

For backup and emergency lights around the house and in the car, I only use the Energizer e2 Lithium. They work very well over a wide temperature range and I have never seen one leak. They also have an extremely long shelf-life, which is great for the flashlight you keep in the emergency kit in the trunk of your car.

For others, it is going to depend on the application. The more cells used in series, the higher the probability is that you will have a single cell overdischarged or driven into reversal near the end of life. So for lights that require high voltage, you are probably better off with lithium-ion. For a small number of cells in series, you can probably get away with just about any high quality cell.

What makes most cells leak in flashlights is overdischarge. The flashlight accidentally gets turned on and the batteries get driven to very low (or even negative) voltages. At these low voltages, gases are generated, typically hydrogen in alkaline and NiMH cells, by the electrolysis of water (gas generation in lithium and lithium-ion is a bit more complicated, but certainly does occur). Eventually, the internal pressure of the cell exceeds the vent pressure, and you have a leaking cell.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Battery Guy
 
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