belomeclone
Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2009
- Messages
- 212
Just wondering. I should peek around DealExtreme to be honest.
you could try iTP's A3 EOS Upgraded. It's cheap, but same as what cashrip said, just a few seconds running it, it WILL heat up so much. Leaving it on low (about 10+ lumens) and medium (about 40+ lumens) should keep it running hours longer than if it was on primary AAA's. The max is 200+ lumens on 10440's but in less than 15 seconds, it will be hot to the touch, im sure if left on, the light will die in about a minute or so. (i guess this depends on the climate, it is already hot here as it is (tropical climate))
I'm rolling with the Tank007, and people say it works, should I just pop one in (aka buy one) and find out?
Ahhh, OK... not sure why you asked then. :thinking:
The iTP doesn't die. It's a total champ. It does get warm, but that's not a bug, it's a feature -- it means the LED heatsink has a good thermal pathway to the body, so it is effectively dissipating the heat. Hold it nice and tight so that your body provides continuous liquid cooling -- very effective.
I have much bigger and badder lights, but pound for pound (that's gram for gram for you metric people) it's the best thing going. Cheap, powerful, durable, tiny.
The iTP doesn't die. It's a total champ. It does get warm, but that's not a bug, it's a feature -- it means the LED heatsink has a good thermal pathway to the body, so it is effectively dissipating the heat. Hold it nice and tight so that your body provides continuous liquid cooling -- very effective.
I have much bigger and badder lights, but pound for pound (that's gram for gram for you metric people) it's the best thing going. Cheap, powerful, durable, tiny.
Just a gentle reminder for people running 10440s in lights not explicitly designed for 3.7v - the reason these lights are so bright is because they are running direct drive and pulling high current from the battery. Most regular 10440s are not designed for this high current draw, but IMR 10440 batteries can cope better, and so are less likely to go poof! when recharging. IMR 10440s are a bit harder to find, but worth the effort for the increase in safety.
Have fun with your little BRIGHT lights
Just a gentle reminder for people running 10440s in lights not explicitly designed for 3.7v - the reason these lights are so bright is because they are running direct drive and pulling high current from the battery. Most regular 10440s are not designed for this high current draw, but IMR 10440 batteries can cope better, and so are less likely to go poof! when recharging. IMR 10440s are a bit harder to find, but worth the effort for the increase in safety.
Have fun with your little BRIGHT lights
Just a gentle reminder for people running 10440s in lights not explicitly designed for 3.7v - the reason these lights are so bright is because they are running direct drive and pulling high current from the battery. Most regular 10440s are not designed for this high current draw, but IMR 10440 batteries can cope better, and so are less likely to go poof! when recharging. IMR 10440s are a bit harder to find, but worth the effort for the increase in safety.
Are there any disadvantages with the IMR's compared to the Li-ion's?
You're not looking at just depth of drain being an issue. Direct drive does give you warning for that issue as the brightness dips.With a 10440 direct drive can take you past the rated spec for max discharge rate. With small bodies, you're also tending to do that in a condition where the cell is under quite a bit of heat stress. That still leaves some chance of "poof" even without completely draining the cell.i wont wait for it to die, as what you said, the light goes into direct-drive mode therefore no regulation, right? that way, the battery wont be completely drained and no "poof"-ing will occur
Oh yeah, check out the lumintop WORM:http://www.lightjunction.com/images/Lumintop/Lumintop-worm-R5.jpg[/IMG]