Zebralight, good in practice?

AutoTech · Nov 17, 2011

I have a petzl tikka xp 2 which is just not bright enough (60lm). I use it under vehicles, changing clutches and other lovely jobs! I'm usually wearing yellow safety glasses which takes the edge off the brightness.

I'm thinking that zebralight is the way to go because they offer some great outputs but I just can't decide whether the way they attach will work in practice?

My petzl has an adjustable angle (down only) and obviously the emmiter is central in your forehead. The zebralight is a tube with an angled emmiter (obviously) and it's going to be off centre when the tube is central on your head. Does this ever feel wrong? Is the rubber attachment to the headband strong, ie does it hold the light really tight? I just can't help thinking where you'll be pointing your head and working the light source feels off centre.

I was going to go for the straight tube zebralight but it'll mean wearing it on the side of my head and I don't want it there as quite often I'm squashed tight under places and it'd be pushinginto my head from the floor.

Would appreciate any input from people that have gone from the petzl style of light to the zebralight.

michman · Nov 17, 2011

I have been wearing a Petzl XP for six years, and have decided on H51w as a replacement. One AA vs 3AAA is really what did it for me. I can not comment on the ease of use or reliability of the H51w yet (as mine is on backorder), but I am hoping that it is a good replacement for the Petzl (to which I have never had a problem with). I will be sure to put in my two cents once it arrives and let you know how I feel about it.

MM

tedh · Nov 18, 2011

I made the same switch and haven't looked back. The centering problem you were concerned about has never been an issue for me; I just don't notice it. I suppose if you are working quite close to your subject matter, you might notice a misalignment, but I would tend to doubt it. I like the fact the H51w is regulated (always get the same brightness, unlike my old Petzls), and the single battery versus three.

Ted

skidad · Nov 18, 2011

You might want to check into the Spark ST/SD series of headlamps is you're concerned about the center placement. Black Diamond Storm 100 lumens or even their Sprinter model runners rechargeable flood with 68 is dam bright and super lightweight.

I'm also curious about the ZL off center question as I was wondering about this also.

Outdoorsman5 · Nov 18, 2011

I don't think the centering of the light will be an issue. I have a H51, H51w, and a H501w. Even when doing up close tasks I don't notice any of them being off centered. By the way since most of your work is up close, you should consider a floody light instead of one with a blinding hotspot. The H501 & H501w are pure flood lights. The H501 is on the top 10 "Flashaholics Must Have" list for a reason. It is really very useful when working on things up close. There is even a brighter version coming out called the H502 which should be released this month some time. Check em out.

JordyC · Nov 18, 2011

Regarding fit/comfort of a ZL vs. a Petzl Tikka, any differences there?

Have you run, jogged, bounced, and such in the ZL and felt as secure as you'd like? I don't have the grams in front of me, but it looks like a ZL would be slightly heavier and less secure feeling than plastic Petzl.

AutoTech · Nov 18, 2011

Ok, thanks guys.

I'm leaning toward the zebralight H51, 200lm sounds nice on an AA. I see they do the flood version with a frosted lens but I'm thinking the normal version might be the wiser buy. Could always run a homemade diffuser when doing close up stuff and with it removed you've got another handheld with a bit more throw if you need it. Makes more sense to do it that way than be stuck with flood only.

gcbryan · Nov 18, 2011

I've got the H51f, H51, Storm and EOS. I don't notice the off centered aspect of the Zebralight. You can always push it a little more one way or the other if you need to (I don't need to). The angle adjustment (IMO) is better than with the 3AAA plastic hinged lights since it just needs to rotate rather than hinged down. The rubber holders work quite well in this regard.

Regarding weight for jogging. The H51f weights slightly less than the XP2 since it's only using one battery. It also have a low profile so it fits closer to your head.

I don't work under cars so I don't know whether the H51 or H51f is better. I have both and prefer the H51f. It seems to me everything has to be close by regarding working on a car so I would think the H51f would be better. However maybe the H51 puts a little more light directly where you need it?

Gregozedobe · Nov 19, 2011

Autotech - The off-centre emitter of the ZL headlamps is not an issue at all, I've used my H501 for 100s of hours and never noticed it at all.

For hands-free close up work I strongly recommend the even flood beam of H501. The hotspot of the H51 is distracting and quite small at arms length. If you need one, get a separate throwy light. You are using this light a lot, so like all frequently used tools you should get the one best suited for the job.

Read some more reports from people who actually use a H501 before choosing a H51 or H51F (I have owned all three). For close up work the H501 is simply the best single AA light around. For more power and/or run time I'd look at the Spark headlamps or the H502 and H602 (when they are released)

JordyC - for jogging a headband with a topstrap will provide better support and stop any headlight from jiggling around so much.

AutoTech · Nov 19, 2011

Gregozedobe said:
Autotech - The off-centre emitter of the ZL headlamps is not an issue at all, I've used my H501 for 100s of hours and never noticed it at all.

For hands-free close up work I strongly recommend the even flood beam of H501. The hotspot of the H51 is distracting and quite small at arms length. If you need one, get a separate throwy light. You are using this light a lot, so like all frequently used tools you should get the one best suited for the job.

Read some more reports from people who actually use a H501 before choosing a H51 or H51F (I have owned all three). For close up work the H501 is simply the best single AA light around. For more power and/or run time I'd look at the Spark headlamps or the H502 and H602 (when they are released)

JordyC - for jogging a headband with a topstrap will provide better support and stop any headlight from jiggling around so much.

Thanks for the input.

The only reason I want the highest output possible is because I'm usually working under cars or inspecting in daylight, obviously looking into shadow fighting against the daylight in my peripheral vision. This why I don't find the petzl enough. I do need the headlamps early mornings sometimes when still dark but the beauty of having someing like the h51/h51f is you've got the high output when you need it and you can always use lower settings if high is too much. Also, I'm thinking it could kill to birds with one stone and use it as an inspection light rather than my jetbeam ba20 I currently use.

Gregozedobe · Nov 19, 2011

Fair enough - in that case I suggest you wait for the ZL H602 - that will have lots of even, floody oomph when you need it but still have reasonable battery life.

tedh · Nov 21, 2011

JordyC - I've used both headlamps for hiking and running, and the H51 absolutely bounces more than the petzls. The fault is not in the lack of top strap on the headband (I never noticed the Petzls bouncing), but in the design and construction of the silicone holder for the H51. Someone posted a mod where they took an old Petzl headband, with the plastic backplate from a Tikka, and fitted an H51 to it. Seemed like a decent idea.

Ted

tony613 · Nov 22, 2011

With respect to addressing and reducing bouncing and "floppiness", you can consider re-threading the headband as CPF member Varuscelli has demonstrated for the newly released H600. Regardless of which ZebraLight is used, the suggestion of re-threading the headband holds. The following is quoted from the "ZebraLight H600(w) XM-L 750 Lm" thread. The thread is called H600(w) but it is actually discussing the H600 because the H600w is not yet being produced.

For reference, H501 and projected H502 specs (from ZebraLight's comparison website):

Light	Bezel Diameter	Length	Lumens (Max)
H501	0.75	2.75	96
H502	0.9	2.73	300

Both the H501 and H502 are flood lights but as you can see the big difference is the H502 is projected to be substantially brighter due to the new XM-L emitter (vs. the XR-E in the H501).

Hopefully it is acceptable to quote posts from other threads; the following is directly related to this discussion. If not, mods, my apologies. If not acceptable and content is deleted, please click HERE to open the original post. That page also contains photos of comparative sizes of the H501, H600, and SC600 (pictures both above and below the referenced post).

Hope this helps.

Tony

varuscelli said:
OK, on this "floppiness" issue with the heavier ZebraLight headlamps...

Unfortunately, yes -- the H600 is certainly a bit to the floppy side when worn with the standard ZL headband and silicon holder....at least, when left with the headband running through the silicon holder loops only one time. Since I don't have before-and after photos of what I did with the H600 headband, I probably need to show a couple of photos for the H501 headband, then what I think is a good solution to solve most of the floppiness of the H600. It's not that I want to exaggerate the flopping effect, but I suppose if you're jogging or doing a lot of rapid head movements you're going to notice it, and I realize from comments I've read this the flopping is a significant issue for some.

Here's a standard headband setup from ZebraLight (H501, in this case), run through the silicon holder slots only one time, as received from the manufacturer.

Here's one for the H501 with the headband doubled back through the holder slots one more time to help add to the comfort level of the silicon holder against the forehead. A side benefit (or maybe a primary benefit) of this extra loop is that it also holds the headlamp more firmly. I'm having trouble remembering who first suggested this routing, but it wasn't me. I just followed the suggestion of another forum member with the rerouting.

But here's what I did with the H600 headband routing by running it through the holder slots one more time. This adds a significant amount of support to the lamp and holder and greatly reduces any flopping of the headlamp. The only problem is that it doesn't leave a lot of room for adjustment with the headband. It still fits me comfortably, but just slightly to the snug side. However, it reduces flopping so much that it's worth considering...depending, I suppose, on the wearer's head size. Again, for me this is not uncomfortably tight -- just snug...and it makes a huge difference with the stability of the lamp.

larcal · Nov 17, 2012

Hi Gcbryan, I'm really curious, since you own both the H51 and H51f. You don't do under car work, but have you done any kind of up close work where you would still prefer the F version even though not as much light is put directly on the narrow target as you say? If so, what kind of work and why? Just asked eh4 this elsewhere before reading that you are maybe one of the few people that own both. Only interested in "throw" to the extent that such focus might ( ? ) help with close detail, and allow running fewer lumens not for hiking, etc. Possibly even if it helps it is more stressfull over time? Maybe I'm not grokking totally a basic principle here.

Zebralight, good in practice?

AutoTech

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