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Thread: My custom dive light build

  1. #1
    Unenlightened
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    Grinser2 My custom dive light build

    Hi all

    New to the land of Flashaholics but I've decided that my old Alpha 2000 halogen water heater is no longer up to the job.
    I will be building a light from scratch out of machined anodised aluminium and also a battery canister out of the same. I
    have sourced the lens, switch and glands so they are no problem. What I may need help with is driver and battery configuration.
    I want to have 7 cree XM-L T6 LED's in series in the head. I have purchased 7 T6 Led's and also have a 7 series xml driver from Kaidomain lying around SKU S020166
    Will this driver be suitable for driving my 7 LED's? And what battery configuration could I have in the canister?

    Heatsinking won't be a problem!! ;-)

    Any advice would be appreciated regarding drivers and batteries.
    Thanks,
    Brett

    PLease Do Not link directly to sales sites - Thanks Norm
    Last edited by Norm; 06-02-2012 at 03:08 AM.

  2. #2
    Flashaholic* 350xfire's Avatar
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    Default Re: My custom dive light build

    The driver specs look pretty good. However, I would be hesitant to use a Chinese cheap driver on such a high powered build. I would look at the Taskleds instead. The Kaidomain driver cannot be surface mounted since it has the contacts on the back side. That would more than likely need to be potted for heat dissipation. The Taskleds are bare on one side for surface mounting. Look at the Hyperbuck.
    Last edited by 350xfire; 06-02-2012 at 10:58 AM.
    http://tlslights.com/ your source for quality affordable dive lights, Mag-lite conversions and weapon lights. Now a Federal Firearms Dealer.

  3. #3
    Flashaholic* DIWdiver's Avatar
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    Default Re: My custom dive light build

    It looks like that driver is designed for exactly what you are doing, so it should work. However, their numbers don't add up. It would have to be 136% efficient to push 2.8A into 23.4V from 6V, 8A. Either the input is going to be more like 12A, or you aren't going to get 2.8A out.

    It looks like you have two basic choices for battery configuration: 2SnP protected or unprotected, or 3SnP protected.

    Your number in parallel (n) needs to be high enough to safely provide the maximum load current. I'd plan on 8A for the 3S cofiguration or 12A for the 2S configuration. It also needs to be high enough to provide the burn time you want: n = burn time * load / cell capacity. If you wanted to make a 3S pack and run 2.5 hours on 2600 mAH (2.6 AH) cells, that would be n=2.5*8/2.6 = 7.7. So you'd want a 3S8P pack.

  4. #4
    Unenlightened
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    Default Re: My custom dive light build

    Ok thanks for that info.....so i need 24 x 18650 cells @ 2600mA and for protection Protection PCB module forr 11.1V Li-Ion battery pack (3S@4A limit) PCM-Li03S5-061 from batteryspace.com ? I've never made a batter pack like this before so the protection circuitry is new to me. Will also need to charge the beast :-) The torch only needs to run for ~1.5 hours. Would a 3S5P suffice at around 12-13000mAh? Trying to keep the cost down a little

    Last edited by Brettis87; 06-03-2012 at 12:04 AM.

  5. #5
    Flashaholic* 350xfire's Avatar
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    Default Re: My custom dive light build

    Haha yes, that is a big a-- pack. I just had an 18 pk built for a project I'm working on... The 8000 lumen video light.
    http://tlslights.com/ your source for quality affordable dive lights, Mag-lite conversions and weapon lights. Now a Federal Firearms Dealer.

  6. #6
    Flashaholic* DIWdiver's Avatar
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    Default Re: My custom dive light build

    Yes, the 3S5P should be what you want.

  7. #7
    Unenlightened
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    Default Re: My custom dive light build

    Well i've added a few bits and pieces to the build.......still waiting on the emitters though so i can start testing. That's not the actual lens that will be used in the build, just a demo.
    Ledil Regina's that ill drill out, Piezo switch, kaidomain 7 series LED driver(still trying to figure out how to heat sink it) and some nickel plated brass cable glands.

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