Headtorch for Climbing/Mountaineering in the Alps

blackreaver

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May 29, 2014
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Hi,
I'm heading to Chamonix this September for some climbing and mountaineering on classic routes/peaks such as Mont Blanc and Chere couloir.
I currently have a Petzl Tikka XP2 (old version at 60 lumens) which isn't really bright enough.
Can anyone recommend me a headtorch that will be suitable?

I've been looking at products like the 2014 Black Diamond Spot/Storm and 2014 Petzl Tikka XP/R+/RXP.

Is a regulated or unregulated headlamp best for Alpine climbing (can get down to -5°C)?

I'll likely be carrying a small portable USB charger (for phone and headtorch) as I'll be in the mountains for 2-3 days at a time, so a micro USB port could be a plus.

Thanks in advance!
 

mcnair55

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North Wales UK
Well as it is a specialist persuit and i wager not many on here are mountain climbers i suggest you look to the specialist shops that concentrate on decent kit.I live fairly close to the famous Snowdonia range here in North Wales and just looked up a store like Joe Browns who by the way send all over the world and a quick search gives you this.

Petzl Tikka RXP Headtorch - Coral.


The Petzl Tikka RXP is the second headlamp in the new Tikka range to take advantage of the amazing Petzl Reactive Lighting technology. Sensors on the headlamp unit allow the light output to be automatically adjusted to adapt to the environment. This means that there is no longer a need for there to be a constant and specific lighting level. The light emitted will dim and increase in brightness as the situation warrants. This has a profound effect on battery life with the Tikka RXP lasting up to 10 hours. There are three Reactive Lighting levels that can be selected depending on activity and how the RXP is being used. Maximum Power is power priority giving you a high light output for fast activity such as running. Standard Power balances power output with battery life and is probably the best mode for most outdoor activities.

PETZL TIKKA RXP HEADTORCH FEATURES

  • Reactive Lighting Technology: Light sensors adjust light output instantly meaning less need for manual intervention, keeping your hands free. Optimised to guarantee burn time
  • Constant Light Mode: If Reactive Lighting is not required this setting can be turned on to guarantee stable lighting that does not diminish during the entire burn time
  • Three Lighting Levels: MAX POWER (power prioritised), STANDARD (Power/Battery Life Bakance), MAX AUTONOMY (Battery Life Prioritised)
  • Red Light Mode: A red LED is integrated for the preservation of night vision
  • Lock Function: To prevent accidental usage when in transport / not in use
  • Rechargeable Lithium Ion Battery (1800 mAh): Rechargeable via Micro USB port
  • Battery charge level indicator
  • Great performance at low temperatures
  • Can be replaced with a standard battery pack for use in remote areas or for longer events
  • Comfortable Headband: With and easy-to-adjust two-part construction
  • Amazing support for even the most active of pursuits
  • OS by Petzl Software: Allows burn time etc. to be customised to your needs
  • Specification:Light Output: Up to 180 Lumen
  • Weight: 115g
  • Beam Pattern: Wide and/or Focused
  • Beam Length: Up to 70 Metres
  • Battery Type: Lithium-Ion 1800 mAh rechargeable with a charge time of 4.5 hours and an estimated battery life span of 300 cycles (beyond this, the battery's capacity is approximately 30 % lower than initially)
  • Battery Life: Up to 10 hours
  • Watertight Rating: IPX4
  • LEDs: 2 x White High-Powered, 1 x Red
  • Temperature Operating Range: -20°C to + 50°C
  • Certification(s): CE
In the box:

  • Tikka RXP Headlamp
  • Lithium-Ion Rechargeable Battery
  • 30cm USB Cable
Also Available in Black

ps I have nothing to do with any of these stores but we have a few good ones in the Snowdonia National Park area due to the large number of climbers,hope it gives you an idea of what is out there.
 
Last edited:

carrot

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Dec 6, 2005
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New York City
The Tikka RXP is a ridiculously good headlamp. I don't use anything else now besides my pair of Petzl active lighting headlamps.

Fits fine on my Petzl Elios. Haven't tried it for extended periods of time in subfreezing, but lithium batteries tend to handle cold weather reasonably well.

Consider the Petzl NAO as well since the battery is worn on the back of the head and can be protected (kept warmer) by your insulated, helmet-compatible hood.
 

blackreaver

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May 29, 2014
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I've just been recommended the Nitecore HC90 by a few people on another site. The output on the Nitecore seems to be considerably better for the same battery life.
Would you still recommend the RXP over the HC90? If so, why?

Thanks,
BR
 

mcnair55

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North Wales UK
I've just been recommended the Nitecore HC90 by a few people on another site. The output on the Nitecore seems to be considerably better for the same battery life.
Would you still recommend the RXP over the HC90? If so, why?

Thanks,
BR

You go with what you think, if I was up a mountain I would go with the famous Joe Browns choice.
 

carrot

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Dec 6, 2005
Messages
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Location
New York City
I've just been recommended the Nitecore HC90 by a few people on another site. The output on the Nitecore seems to be considerably better for the same battery life.
Would you still recommend the RXP over the HC90? If so, why?

Thanks,
BR

I don't know a thing about the Nitecore HC90.

I do think that the RXP is the best headlamp I've ever used. That, and the NAO before it. To not have to reach up and adjust your headlamp when looking at maps, looking at the wall close to you and then looking far off for the way out, the way up or the way down, is far more valuable to me than pure output or pure runtime.

You don't get blinded when you look at things close to you, and you can see plenty when things are far. If conditions are funny and you need to override it, so be it. You can do that too.

You know as well as I that it's not always easy to manipulate a switch with gloves on, or when your hands are otherwise occupied. The NAO is very easy to use with gloves, but you only need to turn it on and off. The RXP takes practice, as it's hard to figure out where the switch is at first with gloved fingers. Same deal -- you only need to touch it to turn it on and off.

Keep in mind that the RXP and NAO are pretty much the same headlamp, with the NAO being the bigger, brighter brother and the RXP being the newer, smaller sibling. Pick the NAO for its brighter output, longer battery life, ease of use with gloves, or the RXP for its compactness and red LED.

I do a little bit of climbing, hiking, backpacking, mountaineering. I try to do most of these things during daylight hours. But the RXP is always the headlamp that makes it into my pack.

In the end, brightness isn't everything.
 
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