Drop in module for LED conversion from HID

Anyone like these drop in modules? I am guessing I would just have to hook up this module to the output of my current PCB where its outputs formerly were for my HID bulb...right?

http://www.dx.com/p/26-5mm-cree-xm-l-t6-840lm-5-mode-drop-in-module-silver-164723#.U4gmPNq9KSM

i want to convert my OMS Phantom 10W HID to LED.

Thanks!!!

Is it pretty straightforward to hook up an LED module where the HID ballast was on an HID setup?

I mean, in concept at least...an HID conversion is taking the HID part off [ballast,bulb receptacle,bulb] and mating an LED module [LED,PCB mount, Reflector] in its place?

Or am I waaaay off??

Thanks!a

I can't speak as to how a fancy 10W divelight would work, but in cheap crappy 35W HID lights, you give the ballast 12V power, with enough power available, and the thing turns on and lights the bulb. Remove power, light turns off.

If the switching circuitry isn't built into the ballast, i.e. if you can remove ballast, bulb, reflector and verify that actuating the power switch does indeed switch the ballast power input on and off with no ballast present, you should be able to use any 12V drop-in. Keep in mind, though, most 26.5mm drop-ins are designed for "P60" flashlights, and most "P60" lights are ~6v max (2x 3V CR123a cells). The output voltage from the ballast settles in around 85V for a typical 35W HID, but strikes the arc at ~24,000V. So, you'll definitely not want to just replace the HID bulb with an LED.

Are you just not liking the 10W HID? Could it be that while the battery has been tested fine, the bulb is old? And have you been able to crack it open and look at its guts yet? My main concern is that the ballast might also contains fancy charging circuitry for the battery, and switch circuitry that would be required for the light to still function, in which case, removing the ballast would not be an option.

Thanks for the reply, bshanahan14rulz!!

The current status of the HID setup is that it turns of for about 2 secs, then shuts off. I think it has to do with the reed switch/hall sensor.

I cracked open the light once...completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected, re-assembled. It worked great! I did a 40min bathtub test, all was fine.Upon draining the tub, light was still on, as soon as the water got below the light head, the light began doing the same malfunctioning behavior.

The LED setup, in my opinion....is far superior...durability-wise, efficacy-wise, and cost wise [new HID bulbs for this light are more than the cost of the conversion].

So, there is a separate charger for the battery. None of the dive light circuitry is for charging the battery.

The battery is 11.1V.

The light head housing has room for 1.4" ID x 2.75" "bay" for the conversion.

I might just see what the circuitry is putting out to the ballast inputs...and see if I can find an LED module to plug into that voltage....does that sound right?

Yep, that's what I'd do. As long as the on/off switch turns the ballast power inputs on and off, and not doing something weird like sending a signal to the ballast itself, you should be good.

You might also consider, perhaps the light senses when it is in water vs. when it isn't. A big benefit of dive lights is that the heatsinking is basically all the water you are diving in, instead of just the flashlight. It could be that the light was designed with this in mind, and that it overheats quickly when run in the air, as opposed to being run underwater. Have you done the bathtub test again without changing or cleaning anything, now that it is acting up again?

So....where do I shop for the LED conversion parts?

what all is needed:

-reflector
-LED on a PCB
-LED driver
-and??

there is no actual sensor to tell the light that it is underwater or not. I re assembled the light today and it is working as expected again.

however, I would still like to convert to LED as I need the light to be more reliable. It is a cave diving light...I do not want the HID bulb burning out, of the recent issue to resurface on a dive.

plus....it is fun to build the conversion!!!

the cargo bay is actually about 32.5mm I.D.

Anyone ever use this company?

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1481

Do I need 3 XML LEDs? Or will one blow the doors off 10W HID?

If I got this product, where do I get a metal heat sink?

Where do I get a driver?

thank you all!! Especially those that replied!!!!!!