testing output of CC drivers

I had a couple of boards built with CC drivers and varying outputs. Somebody forgot to label which are which and there are NO markings.

Can I test the output as to which are 650mA and which are 1000mA?

Thanks

I've been studying on this and I'm now thinking that I need to put the driver under full load to test the output, not sure how to accomplish that without risking some expensive LED's.

Do you have a DMM capable of measuring current? All you need to do is connect the driver negative wire to the LED MCPCB and a single wire to the + side. Connect the + wire off the driver to the DMM and the other lead to the wire on the LED MCPCB. The current will be measured thru the DMM and you can then mark the driver with the current measured. If its a buck/boost driver apply more than the lowest voltage the driver can take but I guess it doesn't really matter in your case since your intent is to only take a single measurement.

All your drivers look similar I think.
In this case you should be able to distinguish them by the printing on the smd current sense resistor.
Please publish a sharp photo of the board. May be we can find the critical part on the photo.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321320340471?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This is the original board, I paid extra for this Israeli gentleman to build my board with (1) 650 and (3) 1000 drivers. I had his word that he would not just send me a stock as advertised board with (4) 650 mA channels.

However I see nothing different on the board I received and the board in the picture.

If so, it's not the first nor last time I'll be or have been lied to but I'm wiring this to some fairly expensive Vero and Luxeon LED's and I'd rather not smoke either the board or the LED's which is why I want to test them first.

I'm in the process of buying a multi-meter but I want to wait and make sure that whatever meter I get is capable of reading the output of this board if that is even a possibility.

Thank you

The picture you posted is not good enough for us to read the values on the resistors.

To test the outputs you need some 3 ohm or 3.3 ohm, 3 or 5 watt resistors. Connect one across each output and turn them all to max (maybe one at a time to reduce heat accumulation). You also need a voltmeter.

R11, R12, R13, and R15 appear to be the secret in the sauce. Even if we can't exactly see them, can you see the markings on those components? R12, R13, and R15 look like they say R330, but I can't make out R11. Looks like something was modified, and I take that as a good sign.

Now I see what you're looking at and you are correct. I have (3) 330 and (1) 150 and yes the fact they have been changed is good.

Thanks