SPETTON Q5 TEAM - cheap backup repair

Last times local divers brings to me many cheap backup lamps to repair ... what mean headaches in full !



I get first time of copy LedLenser backup with switch handle , made by SPETTON .


I try to find out what it is wrong with light , why not starts . Then I want to find out how is made that magnetic switch , go to friend with detector of magnet field ( i could use compass to )

and discover that switch is build in that way with magnets ( picture is from cressi version of same torch ) - I wrote magnet orientation - now i'm asking myself how for hell works that switch ;-))



it would be simple if switch uses hall switch , but it uses small reed switch moulded in plastics ( 10mm long , 2 mm x 2mm wide block .... now comes up reed switch orientation which is quite important .... but light works in past )

I could cut some heat sink ( but I'll damage guidelines for heatsink to bring magnet higher - mean closer to magnet )

some thread on same light type http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?304061-Comparison-Ledlenser-D14-vs-China-clone

Have anyone experiences with these lights in effective repair ?

well ... during repair i have noticed

- Cree XR-E led is probably overheated ( have on heatsink very nice bed for led without star ( naked on ceramic substrate ) but it is placed with some ''chewing gum looking heat conductive glue '' and led it self have
very poor thermal joint .

-heatsink itself it is isolated from SS head with acryl plastic from front lens ; means heat have nowhere to submit (ok power is still so weak that could work in water without problems )

-circuit is made by series from ( battery pos. - reed switch - two parallel SMD resistors ( 6R8 II 6R8 )- led XR-E - battery neg. )

-using reed switch (500mA ) in that case requires some power switch ( like FET ) in other case you need reed for high current or you can significally impair the transitional resistance over contacts (led flickering )

-I have switched SMD resistors (( 6R8 II 6R8 ) - 235mA) for two ((1R8 II 1R8 ) (0,888 mA ) which is near optimum led current

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IMO : pity of money to buy such lights even it is cheap ; buying better lamp makes repair simpler (if needed ) and also led can be during time upgraded -changed for more efficient one
( if you not that guy , that must buy a new backup every time when get in to the water )