What is wrong with my Mag85?

I just received all of the parts for a Mag85 but next to my Mag Charger UMP60 is a bit brighter and whiter? So was I wrong in thinking the Mag85 would blow it away?

Thanks
JT

What kind of power are you supplying to it?
9x NiMH cells?

I'm using a standard M@g 3D, potted WA1185, a borafloat lens, 9xNIMH 1600 mAh Panasonic cells in 3 of Waion's 3AA to D battery adaptors and compared side by side to my Surefire 10X (500 lumens)it is brighter.

Waiting for the arrival of my fivemega aluminum reflector any day now to round out the package. Thinking of upgrading my 9 NIMH's to 2100 or 2400. This should give me a longer run time.

How about cleaning out the contacts/threads of the Mag3D, and double check how the lids go onto the battery holder(one time I put it on wrong, and although it works, it grows hot in no time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif)?

9 Nimh for Mag85, given they are of good quality and fully charged, should give plenty of light(at least, my visual comparison to SF M6 or MiniHID) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Measure the current, if this is below 3.1 A then it is an indication that something is wrong. The common problems are:
1. High internal resistance in the batteries, which leads to voltage sag, which leads to dimmer bulb.
2. Resistance in the battery adapters.

Sigbjoern

So while waiting for the alum reflector to arrive, are you using the stock Mag plastic reflector now? If yes, won't it melt the reflector?

Yes the stock reflector will melt, I managed to melt a reflector in less than 30 seconds.

Sigbjoern

Ok, I'm using a new Mag 3D, potted WA1185, a borafloat lens, 9xNIMH 2300mAh's and Waion's 3AA to D battery adaptors.

How do I check the current draw?

Remove the tailcap and use a DMM on 10A scale to measure the current between the negative battery contact and the silver rim of the body. That should give you the amps.

The current draw is 3.2 any other ideas? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The batteries are new should they be cycled a few times?

You can be getting the right current at the wrong voltage. This is often the cause of unusual dimmness. If you have one dud cell then voltage could be depressed to the point where it will actually be about as bright as the MC60-UMP fresh off charger. What I'd suggest is removing the head so the bulb is exposed. Slide the bulb up as far out of the pin sockets as it will go but still maintain reliable contact. Turn on the light then touch your DMM probes to the two exposed parts of the pins. If you are reading any less than 10.2V on a reasonably fresh pack, then you have a weak cell. This is assuming the cells were all charged to peak on a smart charger.

Keep in mind that while the current demand will be what depresses your voltage, the voltage is what primarily determines brightness.

Wilkey

[ QUOTE ]
Ginseng said:
You can be getting the right current at the wrong voltage. This is often the cause of unusual dimmness. If you have one dud cell then voltage could be depressed to the point where it will actually be about as bright as the MC60-UMP fresh off charger. What I'd suggest is removing the head so the bulb is exposed. Slide the bulb up as far out of the pin sockets as it will go but still maintain reliable contact. Turn on the light then touch your DMM probes to the two exposed parts of the pins. If you are reading any less than 10.2V on a reasonably fresh pack, then you have a weak cell. This is assuming the cells were all charged to peak on a smart charger.

Keep in mind that while the current demand will be what depresses your voltage, the voltage is what primarily determines brightness.

Wilkey

[/ QUOTE ]

How do I do this with a potted WA1185? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Ah, that would be a problem.

Let me think about this. Maybe someone else has already figured it out? I usually test my potted bulbs by removing the switch section and rigging up some connectors.

Wilkey

Could this be a dud cell and/or cells not so good for high currents?

You have to rule out the most simple factor here, and that is the batteries, the engine that runs your light. You simply must get some high quality batteries. Order some of the CBP 1650 cells, which are very competitive, price wise, with Sanyo's and other so called "quality cells".

Bill

Jtivat, exactly what battery holders are you using? EL version 2 3-to-D's are the only kind with a track record in this applications.

Can you test each of the 3 to D adpaters and figure if there's any dud cell in those adapters instead of testing the voltage at the bulb?