You could fashion a goodman handle to slot into the fins easily enough, would also provide a bit of stability. As Lucca says, you could also use the magnet ring.
The switch isn't a problem as I'm designing a new switch that doesn't rely on the housing :D
Does the tailcap unscrew? Would it be too much to ask that the tailcap was the same thread as the head, giving a simple way to convert to a cannister light with very little machining.
3D printers absolutely have a function in Dive lighting at the minute; making mounts for lenses and components, internal components and using patterns to make moulds is all perfectly feasible. Most PLA/ABS based home machines don't have the resolution to do any kind of decent, reliable...
Thanks, that's just what I expected :D
I take it there's no problem with one part carrying a current, as some dive torched do AFAIK?
Cheers for the replies
Hi All
Just running an idea through my head and could do with some clarification.
If using all aluminium you're getting away from galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion as far as I can see.
What are the other risks with aluminium and corrosion underwater?
Also, what would happen if you were using 2...
I'm having to wait until I get a free/dry weekend so I can replace a flat roof, then clear up the out-house and move the lathe to a larger space, then I can get cracking :D
Bloody winter!