I Doubled the Output of a Maglite with a 50¢ Mod

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How long would something like that take to occur in something like a flashlight?
If a flashlight left sitting in my vehicles during winter wet months, in about 6-8 weeks you'll see oxidation forming inside battery tubes and on contacts. Takes longer but reflectors will get spots, blistering..
Bare unplated battery tubes, I use silicone paste not just on threads, I'll take a toothbrush sweeping down inside battery tubes, nothing heavy just a light film.

Stuff like motor parts, especially in older vehicles you'll see heavy Al corrosion, and more so on areas like you mentioned around steel fasteners, Al gets white fuzzy oxidation and deep pitting.

An extreme example, many years ago.I remember watching a stolen car found, Toyota Corolla, it was used in crime over in the valley then driven off the bluff near my home. I watched it being pulled out of the ocean about 2 weeks later. The cast aluminum wheels where eaten up, chrome plated parts totally gone. No dead bodies found)-:
 
Greetings, 'show me' guy;-) Not to be too picky, but words matter. I don't 'think' this, I know it;-) The short answer would be 'experience', with 50 yrs in the electronics industry, and the last 6+ of those in the aluminum industry specifically....and driving an aluminum car for ~30 yrs;-)

Your question is a good one though. Many are not aware of these issues, and many who are still fail to adequately / fully appreciate the extent of them and their potential effects on their electronic/electrical equipment; including their flashlights. I'm just an electronics guy and a chemistry dummy, but here's how the smart guys in the room, (of which I don't claim to be one), might answer your question.

Another very short answer might be 'aluminum oxide'. Al, having 3 valence electrons, is (relatively) a very good electrical conductor. It is also a fairly 'reactive' metal, and has a particular affinity for oxygen. As soon as raw Al is exposed to Earth air, it begins oxidizing. It doesn't slow down until it forms a very thin covering of Al oxide on its surface (which doesn't take long). This oxidation is generally not particurlarly noticeable visually in the earlier stages, unless the part is polished / shiny, in which case it will make the finish look a bit dull. Two Al atoms transfer a total of 6 valence electrons to three oxygen atoms, resulting in Al oxide (I'm not a math guy either, but I think that's right;-). Al oxide is a very good electrical insulator. This is why Al can be a nightmare mixed into electrical environments unless understood and properly dealt with / its negative properties mitigated. While it's true that high moisture content in the air makes matters worse, it's plenty bad here in the dry desert, I assure you. As an aside, if dissimilar metals are involved, particularly in DC applications (like flashlights), this also opens the door for electrolysis to occur, which further compounds the issue(s), and is definitely worse when moisture is involved.

Stray resistance results in a voltage drop (I²R) across it when current passes through it, that voltage drop subtracts directly from from the voltage being delivered to the load (like your light engine modules) under operating conditions, and the resulting power loss produces and is dissipated in heat. The connection failures often tend to be not only progressive, but intermittent, and the user may just notice an intermittent output from their flashlight as the primary symptom (what Bykfixer would call a "whack-a-palm" flashlight😊).

Just to tie this back in with flashlights: If you ever buy high grade hard alloy Al round bar / rod extrusions for machining into flashlight bodies, if they came from a certain 5-letter household word Al supplier I'm familiar with, you will notice that the cut pieces arrive looking very pretty and shiny. They come out of the extrusion press that way, and I'm told that is enhanced by the timed injection of liquid nitrogen into the right part of the (very hot) die stack at the right time.

After going through a dozen or so fairly complex processes over a period of days, just as the rods pass down the last conveyor prior to being cut/sawed to length and packed, they pass through an enclosure which produces a very thick cloud of well circulated fine mist of aerosolized oil of a special type inside it. This leaves them with a very fine coating of that special oil, and that's why they're so pretty and shiny when they arrive to you. I don't remember the name of that oil, but it specifically inhibits that rapid oxidation.

Cheers!
Thanks for the info aznsx.

I'm not particularly concerned about his in a flashlight. Most flashlights I know of use bare AL for electrical contacts (for example where the tail caps mate with the body).

My experience with oxidation on brass has actually been worse that with a aluminum. After months of sitting I've had brass oxidize to the point that I cant get a bead of solder to stick to it without first sanding it. I don't know how much if any that would effect electrical conductivity, but I don't like how it looks.

You mentioned an oil coating used on a aluminum parts that prevents oxidation. That is super cool to know and if you find out what oil it is maybe mention it here. Keeping the shine on aluminum would be beneficial for me. Currently I use deoxit gold on contacts, and it works well for lowering resistance between contacts. It does evaporate eventually though.
 
Hey Matt,

By any chance did you check the lumens on the lights with the new sense resisters on the lower modes?

I really like the lowest ""eco" mode on these and I am wondering how much the lower mOh resisters change the output.


Thanks!
 
Just now I did a quick test of my ML50LX 2X powered by a 21700, with the added sense resistor.

Mode spacing is roughly:
High: 1000
Low: 250
Low: 48

I don't have any mags that are not boosted at the moment. If I ever take one back to factory I can check the original settings. I suspect adding the resistor has the "doubling" effect on all modes.

I couldn't find specs for lower modes in Maglite's literature, but BH photo has them listed as:
High: 490 lumen
Low: 113 lumen
Eco: 23 lumen
 
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Building construction wiring (15-20 amp circuits) used Al wires for a short time during late 60s. Trying to save on construction costs by not using copper. The amount of oxidation and corrosion especially near the coastal construction, along with home fires accredited to loosening connections from Al expansion contraction. Anyway, Romex Al cable wire was outlawed in the early 70s.. Just saying
It was also allowed in lager than 15-20Amp circuits.. I was a construction electrician from 1970 until I retired..
we used it in about every size wire from #14-750mcm (very large wire).. Stupidest thing ever allowing that stuff to be used.. You tighten a connection down properly, and come back a short time later and it is loose… Very dangerous… Connections are an issue with aluminum for ever.. And it does oxidate….
Butch
 
Just now I did a quick test of my ML50LX 2X powered by a 21700, with the added sense resistor.

Mode spacing is roughly:
High: 1000
Low: 250
Low: 48

I don't have any mags that are not boosted at the moment. If I ever take one back to factory I can check the original settings. I suspect adding the resistor has the "doubling" effect on all modes.

I couldn't find specs for lower modes in Maglite's literature, but BH photo has them listed as:
High: 490 lumen
Low: 113 lumen
Eco: 23 lumen
Thanks Matt!
 
Stupidest thing ever allowing that stuff to be used.. You tighten a connection down properly, and come back a short time later and it is loose… Very dangerous… Connections are an issue with aluminum for ever.. And it does oxidate….
Butch
Agreed, I have first hand knowledge of how stupid using Al Romex cable. My house (money-pit) built in '71 has the stuff installed. The owner builder was trying to save a buck. Every Fall I open up my service panels and tighten connections. Then spray a dry lubricant (CRC brand) to slow down oxidation.
It's amazing how loose the screws become. First time finding this condition, I blamed a neighbor who happened to be constructing an add-on to his house, haha! Figured he was trying to steal my breakers when interrupted, then ran off. That wasn't the case, but since then padlocks were added;-)
 
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