My next AA/14500 Anduril light has been announced

I could not config povd (color display) in my latest anduril 2. FF X1S Pharos arrived with it disabled. I was able to turn off aux and 3 clicks voltage display is through the switch light, which I now prefer over the main led.
FF has upgraded their switches. A noticable increase in diameter and slightly more tactical clicking action. FF5009r, 5000k refector with TiR options was the reasons buying the light. It has a beautiful tint and beam. Since I usually carry 18650/16500 lights, 21700 is not that much heavier but with a ton more capacity.

Congrats!
I hope the beam works well for your uses
and that you enjoy the convenience of USB charging

glad you are happy with the 5000K LED.. I like that color temp too.. makes a good bright beam, useful outdoors

knucklegary said:

I could not config povd

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the light has to be in Advanced UI to enable POVD... procedure is:



from Off, 3 Clics to go into battery check
then 7H (6 Clics plus Hold the 7th press), then release on 2nd flash
then 4 Clics (4 seconds of POVD display)
wait for it to finish flickering and then resumes battery blinks
click Off

and/or I agree that 3 Clics from Off for battery check, works fine without using POVD

and even if you dont use battery check at all, when voltage gets low, Anduril will limit output to low modes, making it obvious the battery is weak.

Jon's tutorials are priceless. Thank you!

Received Silver Dual Channel D3AA. Only took 12 days from Order to Delivery..


I really like that the driver has NoPWM.

Dual Channel mix can simulate sunset.
And the shut off timer is handy on the nightstand.

660nm is useful for late night bathroom visits.
Red Light does not reduce Melatonin, and lets me get back to sleep easily.
I also like to use Red Light on my face in the morning, to wake up the mitochondria in my retinas.

Anduril is more fun than a barrel of monkeys! ;-)

btw.. Dual Channel Aux are Much Dimmer than Single Channel:


and fwiw, the copper model is literally twice as heavy:

jon_slider said:

...Dual Channel D3AA.
I really like that the driver has no PWM

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Got my interest! I'm going to have to look into one of these.

kaichu dento said:

Got my interest! I'm going to have to look into one of these.

Click to expand...

Highly recommended! Let me know if you have any Anduril setup questions..
These are the options I like to configure:

the clean unmarked version of the chart comes from here

Besides the option to use each channel independently, they can be mixed. Here is the difference between the 4200K and 2700K LEDs. The mix with Red plus White is more rosy with the 4200K, but the 2700K by itself is also very nice in the evening.. its good to have choices ;-)



there is huge flexibility in how the mix is configured, it can be 50/50, or can be biased to use more of the Red or more of the White LEDs.. the pictured red mix is heavily Red biased.

Here is my trifecta.. notice there are different button options.. the middle light with white rubber button feels very similar to a Zebra and is equally unlikely to turn on in pocket. The white all rubber button is also more waterproof than the metal buttons (even though the metal buttons also have a rubber layer under the metal).


There are also a couple of other all rubber buttons available, including black with a small translucent dot in the middle, and black with a translucent ring.


there are also configuration details regarding the button LEDs to consider.

If the LED color for the button are chosen as a single color, such as Amber, then when the main LEDs are ON, the button light is also On (single color button lights operate independently of the front Aux). otoh, if the button LEDs chosen are RGB, then they turn off when the main LEDs turn on (because they are linked to the front Aux, which must turn off when the main LEDs turn on).

It IS also possible to set the front Aux LEDs to be Off when the main LEDs are Off.. although, I like to use the Front Aux set to Red, as they serve as a locator light when the light is on my nightstand. The Dual Channel Front Aux are Very dim on Low mode when set to Red, similar to tritium.

Favorite Anduril lights:

The Dual Channel D3AA are 14500 only, the Single Channel D3AA, and the three KR1AA are dual fuel AA/14500.
All have the Optional tail magnet, which works well except on the copper, which is too heavy to hold sideways.

Yeah, @jon_slider , do you know more about that waterproof issue? I was looking online the last few days for a beamshot of the 519A in 3500K for the D3AA (I like my SST-20 4000K enough I am considering another, and/or as a gift), and I saw something somewhere about apparently water can kill these lights, and I ASSUMED that was with the metal button, but wasn't sure.

I think I might start doing RGB button lights. I went with green to match my flashlight bodies, but think the RGB might be more fun.

Also, I got my D2 single channel in, and that's an interesting light. It's got a nice beam for headlamp use, but it is much longer than my AA ZL and Skilhunt H150, so we'll see if it replaces either for headlamp duty (with the H150 being my favorite).
Interestingly, I was surprised that, with Malkoff, I MUCH prefer a tailswitch, but I actually found the tail button on the D2 harder to click through the Anduril interface. A single, positive McClicky is a joy to use, but even the perfectly nice switch on the D2 is just a bit awkward for using Anduril.
I think I've found I STRONGLY prefer clicking with my thumb, and since Anduril needs SO MUCH clicking, the "pinching" motion is easier for me than trying to grip a long light, and multi-click since I can't directly support the opposite side of the light with my fingers. With my ZL, I can curl my pinky and use that as a "shelf" to stabilize as I click. The D2 is too long - and I have pretty big hands (I'm between XL and XXL gloves sizes). I ended up having to "tailstand" it (which is a bit wobblier than I expected) to do the UI.

I generally STRONGLY prefer 90* lights AND tailswitches, so I was surprised that this one wasn't really such a slam dunk as the D3AA was. I have a feeling the H150 will maintain it's reign as the king of my forehead, haha.

Schokokeks said:

do you know more about that waterproof issue?

Click to expand...

not first hand
read this post
and ask Hank to confirm if he feels the rubber switch is a better choice for use in the rain

I use my index finger to operate the switches on my headlamps when programming:



glad you enjoy your H150.. I agree it is nice and small..
the D2 is definitely on the longer end of the spectrum.

How do you feel about the D2 vs the H150 beam, for reading a book..
is the D2 beam better at covering the whole page top to bottom
without having to move your head up and down?

btw there is a new H150 driver upgrade:

SKILHUNT H150 V4 is Here!
new buck-boost driver keeps constant brightness throughout the whole battery life.
Cooler & more efficient — significantly lower heat generation at the same power.

I have one on the way.. and plan to investigate how it compares to the one I have, which I keep in my car, loaded with your favorite battery type..

jon_slider said:

not first hand
read this post
and ask Hank to confirm if he feels the rubber switch is a better choice for use in the rain

I use my index finger to operate the switches on my headlamps when programming:

View attachment 96640

glad you enjoy your H150.. I agree it is nice and small..
the D2 is definitely on the longer end of the spectrum.

How do you feel about the D2 vs the H150 beam, for reading a book..
is the D2 beam better at covering the whole page top to bottom
without having to move your head up and down?

btw there is a new H150 driver upgrade:

SKILHUNT H150 V4 is Here!
new buck-boost driver keeps constant brightness throughout the whole battery life.
Cooler & more efficient — significantly lower heat generation at the same power.

I have one on the way.. and plan to investigate how it compares to the one I have, which I keep in my car, loaded with your favorite battery type..

Click to expand...

I like that the D2 has a wider, more even beam. I'd say, for reading a large book, that might work better. And, I got mine with my beloved SST-20's in 4000K, again, so I imagine the 519A is even wider, since the SST's are always a bit throwier.

But, the H150 has a decently wide beam for my normal "work space," when I am tinkering with things, and if something is a bit at arm's length. I almost feel like the absolute best part of the H150 is the switch being on the side of the head. It makes it the absolute best headlamp. I think if the D2 had a switch in a similar location, I might actually prefer it to the H150, because I absolutely love the NiMH performance of the D3AA and single D2.

The AA ZL is a similar gap as between the D2 and the H150, but even further into the hotspot world. I find this to work well if walking or riding a bike (I like to keep a medium level headlamp on with my bike lights running).

Oh, that's interesting with the H150. I'm not sure if I love 5000K, though. That's the upper limits of my preferences. Also, the run times seem to prioritize output more than the 4500K ones I have, with the exception being the lowest outputs. Like for like outputs, I get about 20 minutes longer on the slightly less bright, but imperceptibly lower output on my V3 at 80 lumens at 260 minutes vs. 100 lumens at 240 minutes.

Though, the 3000K H150 is a really fantastic light, and the 5000K might make it more popular as a gift, since I think normal people like a bit cooler of a CCT.

thanks for your thoughts

I agree the H150 switch placement is ideal for a headlamp
I unscrew the tailcap to prevent accidental activation when not on my head..
I prefer the H150 as my car light because it has less Riple than my Zebra..

I dont have single channel D2, my dual channel D2 is my favorite headlamp for reading, but it does not earn a place in my car, because I prioritize Eneloop for my car light.

for the new H150 Im expecting, I chose the 5000K, because I know I can dedome it to produce about 4000K with slightly negative DUV. Or just leave it alone to contrast with my existing H150 that has a DeDomed 4500K 519a..

I like to have multiple similar hosts with a selection of different LED options:


There is a madness to my method. ;-)

jon_slider said:

thanks for your thoughts
I agree the H150 switch placement is ideal for a headlamp, its downside is that it forces me to unscrew the tailcap to prevent accidental activation when not on my head.. but I do prefer the H150 as my car light because it has less Riple than my Zebra..

I dont have single channel D2, my dual channel D2 is my favorite headlamp for reading, but it does not earn a place in my car, because I prioritize Eneloop for my car light.

for the new H150 Im expecting, I chose the 5000K, because I know I can dedome it to produce about 4000K with negative DUV. (I dont care for the tint of Domed 519a, it looks slightly greenish to me)

One of my hopes is that the new H150 will have slightly higher output on Eneloop, than the model I already own, whose max output is an anemic 90 lumens. My existing H150 has a 519a 4500K that I dedomed..

I did not want the new H150 to have the 3000K LED, because I would want to dedome that too, and then it would be warmer than I would prefer, (first world problem, lol) ;-)

Click to expand...

The cool part of the single channel D2 is it uses the same driver as the D3AA, so it's fantastic on Eneloops, and apparently has a bit of a wider optic. So, it might actually be even better for your needs. Though, I'm not too upset at 90 lumens for an AA. I generally use most lights at about that, on the upper end, haha.

I do also lockout my H150, but I lockout most of my lights that aren't mechanical.

That's not a terrible idea about de-doming it. It looks like the bezel would unscrew with some kind of tool.

Kind of related, you might actually like the Malkoff headlamp "adapter" hahaha

As goofy as it seems, it's actually awesome. It turns ANY hand torch into a headlamp. I need to actually try my D3AA in this thing. I think with the floody optic, it might actually be perfect, haha.

Schokokeks said:

I'm not too upset at 90 lumens for an AA. I generally use most lights at about that, on the upper end

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I agree ;-)
at close range Im fine with half that output

I did the dedome of my existing H150.. the bezel came off easily, it is not glued

the malkoff straight light holder looks like a good option..
clipping a straight light such as a D3AA to a baseball cap, can serve a similar function

Copper D3AA with FFL4500k rosy emitters. Dual fuel is a must have in a AA sized light

jon_slider said:

I agree ;-)
at close range Im fine with half that output

I did the dedome of my existing H150.. the bezel came off easily, it is not glued

the malkoff straight light holder looks like a good option..
clipping a straight light such as a D3AA to a baseball cap, can serve a similar function

Click to expand...

You rig it up, and you just keep saying, "There is no way this is going to work," and then you put it on, and you're like, "Okay. Why didn't I buy two of these?"

Honorable mention for using both of the side holders at the same time. I've had some great Shenanigans with that thing and some throwy lights on the side, hahaha.

ilikeguns40 said:

Copper D3AA with FFL4500k rosy emitters. Dual fuel is a must have in a AA sized lightView attachment 96659
View attachment 96660
View attachment 96661
View attachment 96662

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How are you liking the clip, metal button, and the FFL emitter?

I opted against the clip because I heard so much negativity, and am so far happy enough.

I'd also read mixed feedback on the metal button (which objectively looks better), so I went for the rubber since my last Anduril attempt was mostly ruined by a crappy metal button (Wurkkos TS10).

I only have the 1800K and 5000K FFL emitter, one being quite literally orange, and the other being perfectly white. You pic makes it look on the rosier side.

Also, bonus points for team green aux, haha. Copper looks nice as it patinas. Is this a raw one, or does it have a clearcoat? Will you just let it patina, or eventually coat it yourself?

Clip I don’t mind, I find it actually works great going in and out of pocket, however I prefer this light with no clip. Feels much better in hand, plus it’s small enough to just ride in bottom of pocket

Metal button IMO is so much nicer and looks better than a rubber button especially on Ti, brass, and copper lights. I like the look and feel as well

I will let this naturally patina with age

ilikeguns40 said:

Metal button IMO is so much nicer and looks better than a rubber button especially on Ti, brass, and copper lights. I like the look and feel as well

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Congrats and thanks for the great pics
im enjoying the metal button too ;-)

have avoided installing the press fit clip.. had some fun today installing the captive clip from a KR1AA:

Schokokeks said:

Is this a raw one

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yes, the copper is raw.. fully oligodynamic ;-)

jon_slider said:

Congrats and thanks for the great pics
im enjoying the metal button too ;-)

have avoided installing the press fit clip.. had some fun today installing the captive clip from a KR1AA:
View attachment 96669


yes, the copper is raw.. fully oligodynamic ;-)

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Does the KR1AA clip slide into pocket easy? Is there enough bend on the clip end to go over a pocket seam?

I might get one eventually but I had issues with the first KR1AA clip I had going into pocket

ilikeguns40 said:

Is there enough bend on the clip end to go over a pocket seam?

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yes, it goes on easily, and there is enough room to fit the top of the clip over a jeans seam, snugly..

easier to slide all the way into the upper bend of the clip with slacks that have thinner material than jeans.. but both materials work fine

Note that on early versions of the D3AA the O ring sits lower. Newer versions have the O ring sitting higher, leaving plenty of room for the clip, and the O ring remains completely covered by the tailcap:

ilikeguns40 said:

Clip I don’t mind, I find it actually works great going in and out of pocket, however I prefer this light with no clip. Feels much better in hand, plus it’s small enough to just ride in bottom of pocketView attachment 96667

Metal button IMO is so much nicer and looks better than a rubber button especially on Ti, brass, and copper lights. I like the look and feel as well

I will let this naturally patina with age

Click to expand...

I also REALLY like this feel of this light in the hand without a clip. It's funny you said it rides in a pocket well, cause I've been doing just that around the house lately; just dropping it into a pocket. It really is great for that.

I kind of think I'd like the heavier weight of the copper, too. That just helps it sink down so much nicer. But, with the stainless bezel in aluminum and an eneloop, it's already a good, weighty guy.

Interestingly enough, it's only 2/3 the weight of my MDC AA, but because it's more compact and head heavy, it actually feels heavier.

jon_slider said:

Congrats and thanks for the great pics
im enjoying the metal button too ;-)

have avoided installing the press fit clip.. had some fun today installing the captive clip from a KR1AA:
View attachment 96669


yes, the copper is raw.. fully oligodynamic ;-)

Click to expand...