F&L J1 3W (CR2 Jil Clone) ***Beamshots & specs added***

lightningbug

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Howdy Ladies and Gentleman,

Today I picked up this light from the Post Office, as a partial shipment of an order from Fifthunit.com.

The item was packed in a bubble bag, then wrapped in a typical bubble envelope mailer. It arrived as if it had been handed to me from the original packer.

Upon close inspection, I found a beautifully machined tiny light with a wrist lanyard attached. I noticed some comments in other threads concerning machining marks evident in the pictures of this light on Dae's website. Be assured no such marks are on my light. Rather, machine marks are highly evident but appear to be purposeful. There are four flats machined into the body, and flats machined into the end to create a six flute star pattern on the base. In the center of the base and star pattern is a 1/4-20 female thread facilitating attachment to a tripod. On all flats, machining marks are evident and recall nostalgic images of elegant automobile dashboards from the last century that employed the same machining techniques. Not only dashboards, but consoles, door panels and many other custom and expensive items used the "jeweled" technique. Perhaps the "jeweling" on the F&L J1 are coincidental rather than intentional, but nonetheless add a very nice touch for those of us that remember "jeweled" dashboards and could never afford it. Outside of the "jeweling", there are no machining marks, and fit & finish are excellent. The HA3 is flawless, with no color mismatches or uneveness.

F&L J1 is silk-screened on one of the body flats. The head has four machined rings, then two raised knurled rings. The cross-hatching is slight, and could be a bit deeper in my opinion, but is quite functional as is. It is deep enough to displace water if your hands are wet so you can gain purchase to turn the light on or off. And, speaking of that, it's a twisty. 3W is silk-screened on the head. The lens is glass, the reflector deep and mirror-like, but the emitter in my light is slightly off center by about 1/128". Fifthunit claims the light employs an emitter from the USA.

The light shipped without a battery, so I tried it with a primary cell from Ultralast. Wow! Oh my! Wow! This little sucker is bright! The tint appears white with no other distractive coloration upon first glance, but in direct comparison to a Luxogen LR-5 3W is slightly warm. The beam is nearly perfect with a medium sized hotspot (very close to the beam from the 6W 2 mode) transitioning into a lovely corona of appropriate and most useful size. Beyond the corona, a ring of darkness followed by a thin ring of light. The hotspot is bright and gives the overall appearance of a huge illuminated drop of water, that is to say, somewhat 3 dimensional much like other LEDs. With a Lith-ion CR2, this thing is crazy bright. I didn't want to perform any extensive testing with the rechargeable, as I'm not sure if the tiny light's circuit will support voltages over 3v.

In direct comparison to:
Luxogen LR-5 3W (1 x 123)
Ultrafire 602A (1 x AA)
HDS U60 (2 x 123)
HDS B42XRGT (1 x 123)
Fenix L1/L2T (1 x 123)
Fenix L2P (1 x 123)
Fenix L1P (1 x AA)
Fenix L2P/L1P (1 x AA)
Lambda/Nuwai Pocket Illuminator 3W (1 x AAA)
Ultrafire 602C (1 x 10440)
MXDL 3W v1 (3 x AAA)
Dorcy Super 1W (1 x 123)
Maglite 2D 3W LED (2 x D)
6W 2 mode (1 x 123)

and a few others, the little Jil clone holds its own. In fact, it blows away the Fenix and Ultrafire lights (except the LxT with 123), and edges out the others except the Luxogen and HDS. The Maglite is great and doesn't exactly fit into this category, but since its an LED, I compared it with its beam focused as tightly as possible. Without any spill beam, it really doesn't fit here. And when I say "blows away", I mean its brighter....and brighter enough to see the difference quite easily. In fact, its approximately the same brightness of the HDS B42XRGT on maximum. The HDS U60 is brighter, though. On a Lith-ion, its brighter than the Luxogen LR-5, and on primaries both are equal.

Obviously, at this point in time I have no data on runtime, but I'll try to exhaust a battery and also take some comparative beam shots. As bright as this is, I expect poor runtimes.

All in all, I would rate this 5 out of 5 stars as is. Price vs performance is exceptional. Future improvements I'd like to see include multiple brightness levels, included holster, included lobster claw keychain, and tritium.

I would also love to see some data on voltage tolerance, so we know if rechargeables are in order. When others receive theirs who have more knowledge of the circuitry; perhaps the rating will be downgraded. But for now, I'm happily recommending it!

EDIT:

Please note the following:

J1 current is measured @:

Primary @ 2.86v 177ma
Lith-ion @ 3.8v 200ma (approximately.....meter used only has settings for 200ma and 10A, and would quickly flash 199.8ma, then nothing)

Power considerations:
F&L J1- used Ultralast primary (the light is brighter with a lith-ion, but I don't trust extended use yet)
Ultrafire- 10440
6W 2 mode- used protected RCR123
L1P/123- used primary
L2T/123- used primary
Nuwai/Lambda Pocket Illuminator- used Nimh AAA
Luxogen LR-5 3W- new Duracell primary 123
HDS B42- used protected RCR123
HDS U60- protected RCR123, charged but shelfed for several weeks

Photos were taken with an average Digital camera, and no exposure compensation employed. The camera was handheld. The shots were taken against a Beige wall. The beamshots really don't do justice to the little light, as it certainly seems brighter than the photos would lead you to believe. I decided to limit the beamshot comparison to 3W lights only with the exception of the tiny Ultrafire, as with a fresh Lith-ion battery, it nears 3W performance.

The Lineup


Size Comparison
The J1 is dwarfed by the Fenix L0P & L1P


The F&L J1 3W is always on the left in the following photos

J1 vs 6w 2 mode


J1 vs HDS EDC B42XRGT


J1 vs HDS EDC U60


J1 vs L2T/123


J1 vs L2P/123


J1 vs Pocket Illuminator


J1 vs Luxogen LR-5


J1 vs Ultrafire AAA


If you would like to seem comparisons of other lights, please feel free to ask, and if I have one, I'll certainly do the test.

Thanks for your interest!
 
Last edited:

vortechs

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Re: F&L J1 3W (CR2 Jil Clone)

Hi lightningbug, thanks for posting a review for the F&L J1 ("JIL clone").

How hot does it get?

It sounds like the F&L J1 has a more powerful boost driver than the 400mA MicroPuck-HI in the JIL 1.3W model. From your observations it appears it is probably getting around 700mA to the LED to drive the Lux-III at spec (or perhaps more). If you have a DDM to check the current, I would like to know what it is drawing from a 3V CR2 cell. Since the JIL 1.3W gets about 1.5 hours of runtime, I suspect the "FIL" (Faux-JIL) will get about half that (45 minutes), although it could be worse since batteries tend to provide less capacity at high current.

See the comments on the page with the F&L J1 product listing on fifthunit's website (here) or this post regarding using Li-Ion cells with the F&L J1. They say the light will burn out when the input voltage exceeds 3V. From your tests it can obviously take a 3.7V Li-Ion cell for at least a short time.

Note that the fifthunit website says they have 3V RCR2 cells (although they don't currently have a charger for them).
 

700club

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Re: F&L J1 3W (CR2 Jil Clone)

Great review! Sounds like we have another pocket rocket on our hands. I can't wait for the beamshots.
 

lightningbug

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Re: F&L J1 3W (CR2 Jil Clone)

vortechs said:
Hi lightningbug, thanks for posting a review for the F&L J1 ("JIL clone").

How hot does it get?

Vortechs, with a primary, it gets warm after a minute or two. With a rechargeable, it gets hot quickly. Not hot enough to be uncomfortable, but hot enough to raise concern.

It sounds like the F&L J1 has a more powerful boost driver than the 400mA MicroPuck-HI in the JIL 1.3W model. From your observations it appears it is probably getting around 700mA to the LED to drive the Lux-III at spec (or perhaps more). If you have a DDM to check the current, I would like to know what it is drawing from a 3V CR2 cell. Since the JIL 1.3W gets about 1.5 hours of runtime, I suspect the "FIL" (Faux-JIL) will get about half that (45 minutes), although it could be worse since batteries tend to provide less capacity at high current.

Sorry, I have no way to measure current.......wait, I do have a Volt ohm meter, but don't know how to measure the current on this item. Any suggestions?

See the comments on the page with the F&L J1 product listing on fifthunit's website (here) or this post regarding using Li-Ion cells with the F&L J1. They say the light will burn out when the input voltage exceeds 3V. From your tests it can obviously take a 3.7V Li-Ion cell for at least a short time.

Note that the fifthunit website says they have 3V RCR2 cells (although they don't currently have a charger for them).

Yep, I saw those. I was going to ask AW about his RCR2 cells and see if he has 3 volt. On a side note, I was also interested in the safe 123 cells he's selling. Have you tried them?

Hopefully, I will get some beam shots tomorrow.
 

vortechs

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Re: F&L J1 3W (CR2 Jil Clone)

lightningbug said:
Sorry, I have no way to measure current.......wait, I do have a Volt ohm meter, but don't know how to measure the current on this item. Any suggestions?

Yep, I saw those [3V RCR2 cells]. I was going to ask AW about his RCR2 cells and see if he has 3 volt. On a side note, I was also interested in the safe 123 cells he's selling. Have you tried them?

If your meter can measure current, plug the wires into the 'current' plugs and set the switch for 'current'. Take the body off the flashlight, touch the positive battery contact to the positive terminal on the flashlight head, then touch one of the meter's probe to the negative battery contact and the other probe to the edge of the head (probably on the inside, on the threads).

If your meter can't measure current, you might want to consider getting a cheap DDM (digital multimeter). I think Harbor Freight has some and I saw some on the fifthunit website. We might be able to work out the formula based on the voltage drop across a known resistor placed into the circuit, but it's probably a lot more trouble than getting a DDM.

I don't think AW has advertised 3V RCR2's but it doesn't hurt to ask if he can get them.

I have not tried AW's safe 123 cells yet.
 

vortechs

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lightningbug said:
J1 current is measured @:

Primary @ 2.86v 177ma
Lith-ion @ 3.8v 200ma (approximately.....meter used only has settings for 200ma and 10A, and would quickly flash 199.8ma, then nothing)

Hi lightningbug,

I just noticed the edit on the first post. Thanks for the beamshots and current measurement.

Those current measurements are close enough to 200ma that you should use the 10A connection/setting on your multimeter. The J1 is probably drawing more than 500mA if it is about as bright as most 3W lights. Let us know what you get with the 10A setting. Thanks.
 

Maro

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I bought F&L J1 from FifthUnit.com.
I changed the converter board to goldserve's FLuPIC.
0.6" FLuPIC board is fit.
I put RCR2 into this light and it was set to cheap JCR2 IT.
:whistle:
 

vortechs

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Maro said:
I bought F&L J1 from FifthUnit.com.
I changed the converter board to goldserve's FLuPIC.
0.6" FLuPIC board is fit.
I put RCR2 into this light and it was set to cheap JCR2 IT.
:whistle:

Thanks for the info, Maro.

The F&L J1 with FLuPIC will be about 8mm longer than a JCR2-IT. The FLuPIC board in the JCR2 IT is very very thin, since the JCR2-IT is basically a JCR2-LR with the FLuPIC. The F&L J1 is a clone of the slightly longer JCR2-HI.

Do you have a JIL-CR2 1.3W? If so, does the sandwich in the F&L seem to be the same size (diameter and height)?

Do you have any plans for the driver from the F&L J1?
 

RadarGreg

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Thanks for the review, lightningbug! I got one of the clones from Dae's retail site, and it is now in the honored place as my EDC. I'm using my F1 with an unprotected RCR2 and have had no problems with it at all. For anyone that is interested, Dae had added a couple new Smartfire lights to his retail site with comparable prices to the F&L J1. Both have a black finish, and are available as either a single cell CR2 or a single cell CR123A. I've ordered both and will post a review when they get here.
 

sotto

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Received my J1 yesterday. Very very nice light with a powerful tight beam for such a small light. Nice white LED. Lightweight too. I have a lot of great pocketlights, including an ARC 4+, and this one ranks right up there near the top. Almost unbeatable for $20.
 
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